Builds FlatRok40 build (1 Viewer)

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Opened up the rear cover today and found this

A question for those who have ran Lockrites for years how is this going to effect this? There are 3 other pins and since its on the spring side the pin should not fall out. I am just not very familiar with lockers to know if I should replace or run till it breaks (which will be in the worst spot I would imagine).

If it were me... I'd opt to replace it just for the reason that if things start braking off inside the diffs and then chews the diffs up... Your out additional for new gears too AAAAAND a day or weekend effe'd up for wheeling!!
I'll take a controlled and PLANNED pre emptive repair over a trail repair ANY DAY!!
 
Time for an air locker, Jim. Put the couple hundred dollars needed to replace the lockrite into an ARB. Selectable lockers are the shiz. :)
 
An ARB would be nice but not really for me. It seems like alot of cash for something I can do for alot less and have the same end result (locked rear). I am putting it back together being winter is coming and it will not see much driving time exept back and forth to work sometimes and the occasional ice cream run with the kido's. I am going to try and save for a detroit but still seems like a expense that is really not needed when I can weld it up. For those that have welded rears how bad is it really on the street? I don't drive mine an ton around town but I still drive it and I do sometimes take some short trips around 200 miles to wheel and back. I know it will chirp and maybe wear tires faster but the unloading and loading bang I get know it pretty dam annoying too. I will contine to do some reading but if anybody has any pro's and con's first hand I would like to hear them.
Thanks Jim
 
One more thing I am not real sure how the Detroit sits in the carrier but I know its a full replacement. Would it be easier to change a rear shaft with a Detroit or welded rear? It's all about field fixes.
 
One more thing I am not real sure how the Detroit sits in the carrier but I know its a full replacement. Would it be easier to change a rear shaft with a Detroit or welded rear? It's all about field fixes.

You still have to use the C-clips.

A welded rear is not fun on the street...imo
 
I figured I would still have the c-clips but am I wondering how hard are they to get in and out with a Detriot. I have done some searching and have'nt come across a good write up on install.
I had some minor problems with the Ruffstuff diff cover and after working them out I finally got it on and holy crap that thing is TUFF. I can't wait to hit a rock with it:steer:. Budbuilt sides are en route to me so I can't wait to get them started. Will post pics of install :cheers:
 
what problems did you have with the Ruffstuff diff cover??

i cant wait to see some more progress!! if i was rebuilding the tub on my bj-42 i would totally get those budbilt sides.. those things are nice..
 
I had to do some grinding where the ring gear goes to get it to sit flat. The bolt holes are so close that I had to ream a couple out so I could get all the holes to line up. It just took some extra time and cussing to get it to fit.

I can't wait till the sides get here. I already moved the tire carrier over so you could see the new LED tailights.

I am working on making a storgae box for the rear that sits flush with the top of the fender wells and I can do some sort of quick realese for my back seat. The kids don't always go and the extra room would be nice for coolers and gear. Has anybody found many pics or designs for this. I have seen some wood ones but would like to try steel. I am thinking of a square tube frame then sheet with some 16ga metal:meh:. Still planning and thinking.
 
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Towards the end of this page, there is a platform built for the back of his 40. Not much detail on the mounting though. I plan to build a similar platform, but it will be up on top of the lip that the hard top sits on. Sounds like with the little ones, you need to keep it lower for head clearance. 1x1 square tube and some sheet metal are what I was thinking as well.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyota-land-cruiser/548889-my-poo-flinger-build-up-14.html
 
Thanks for the link.

I spent some of the night outside drinking and looking. I came up with what I thought was a solid plan but like usual looks like it will not work with current seat. So now the search for a junk yard seat is on. I need something like a old 70's bronco would use that is slim on the bottom or fork out the dough for a new offroad bench seat. My current seat is really comfty but pretty thick on the bottom and would cause your head to stick out over the cage. If I figured right just the frame of the box would weigh about 70pds. I am going to use about 55ft of 1" square tube 11ga. That's kinda alot of weight and that's without the sheeting which would be 20ga probably. I can get a pan brake for that 20ga to bend. So the planning stage continues. Any more ideas?
 
I have some geo tracker rear seats built a box under them they fold forward to access the box and fold flat ive had a cooler on them ill try and get some pictures
 
Seats sit on box which is bolted on top of fenders though the roll cage. Folded flat they sit up about 8 inches. Can fold one forward with out effecting the other which is ideal for a carseat so it isn't in the way if you want some tools

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Thanks man
That would be perfect for what I am trying to do. I will have to start digging through the junk yards.
Thanks Jim
 
i used 1994 honda odyssey van 2st row seat bracket . the hinge and latch brackets bolt to the floor. so it folds up and pulls right out of the truck i do have a corbeau back seat.
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Seats sit on box which is bolted on top of fenders though the roll cage. Folded flat they sit up about 8 inches. Can fold one forward with out effecting the other which is ideal for a carseat so it isn't in the way if you want some tools

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Could you post some pics of the box and mounting? I found a rear bench out of a 92 Geo Tracker that should work. They are pulling it out today.
 
Could you post some pics of the box and mounting? I found a rear bench out of a 92 Geo Tracker that should work. They are pulling it out today.

Gotrocks's seat looks to be mounted directly to the floor, with a fuel cell under the seat that sticks up through the floor.

55' of 1x1? That seems pretty excessive. Bolt some 1/8" angle to the inside edge of each wheel well and weld 3 or 4 cross supports in for your deck. 8' of angle and 12-16' of square tube + bracketry/supports as necessary for your seat mount. You may need an upright to help with deflection depending on the weight you are going to put on top of the deck. Or use some 1.5"x1.5"x1/8" square tube, you shouldn't have any issues with deflection.
 
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Ewheeler the 55ft of tube is what I have figured to make the whole box that sits on the bottom of the floor up to the fender wells. So basically a 31"x40"x6.5 box with stiffeners and two drawers. So that way I can put the seat in and use if for the kids or when I go by myself I can take the seat out and still have a flat deck to strap crap to.

Junkie thanks for the pics.
 

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