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jefishing said:
yea I went with 60 housings. I was having a problem setting the rear shackle angle. I thought I could rotate the rear hanger but the shackle bar hit the hanger. % ended up measuring 44.5 from center hanger to center hanger. I have about 36 degree on dr and 39 degree on ppass. It took me forever to get that far. I sure there is a way to set it up besides guessing and reguessing. Does anybody have a good way to figure the angle? I am going to try and tackle the front tomorrow so I know how long to make rear hanger. I will set front and adjust rear to level it out. Sound right
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Just curious...you are doing this with the weight of the rig ON the springs, right?
I couldnt find an easy way to do it...I used tack welds and big ass C clamps and sort of tapped the hanger into place carefully. Took FOREVER. I think I started at un sprung weight with the shackle at 5 or 10 deg, jacked it up and then took the measurement from there for the angle and just kept doing that till I got what I needed. However I went with MUCH LESS of a shackle angle...20 or 25 deg for the final. Stack some weight in the rear as well to account for any gear you carry.
 
quick ? What is the width of the front hangers supposed to be. Using 60 series housing and poffits front hangers just like the ruff stuff hangers. I am making this harder than it probally is. I have 25in between hangers and I am off somewhere.
 
Okay I think I have the front hangers in position. I was going to try and reuse the old hangers in rear but my castor will be way off. I cut off the old ones and will have to use the offset hangers and drill through the frame. Proffits website says mount the front and measure back from the bolt 42in and that should be where you drill the hole in the frame. From what I can tell that will be straight up and down. I tried tacking in a 2x3 piece of steel to the frame then jacking up the rig with the with the springs and housing attached till all the weight was on the springs then looking where a 25degree angle would be and it is way short of what they say. Could somebody measure there 60 series spring and tell me how far it is from center bolt to center bolt so I have a rough idea where to start. I know there is a ton of varibles but this would give me a idea. I wish I had my computer I would post some pics easier to show than type about.Thanks
 
Well I finally have the computer back so here are some updates. I belive I have the rear set where I think it should go. Still have not set the pinion yet but it is on its wheels. The shackle angle is pretty good but I will make sure once the front is set before and final decisions, might need to change shackles to level it out. I might put a add a leaf in the springs pretty flat.
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One of many things I am having a problem with is that I measured from the axle end to the perch and made it equal on both sides but when you look at the cruiser from the front it looks like the axle needs to be moved over like and inch or so. Is there a better way to make sure its center side to side. I installed springs then set the perchs on bottom then lifted axle to perches with them marked equal but looks off.
I belive I am ready to cut the hole in the frame just trying to make dam sure it is where I want it. The shackle angle will be steep but it will be about an 1 1/2" shorter than what proffits say. Any ideas? The wieght of the vehicle is on the springs in the pic. The jack it there just in case something fails.
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Find center on the housing and mark it. TACK WELD or affix SOMETHING across the width of the frame horns ABOVE the housing location and find center line on that. Grab a plumb bob and center the housing off of that. Once that is centered you can then make the perches equal, side to side. From there, you want the front hangers, the center pins on the leaf springs and the rear shackle centers ALL to the same dimension across. Another quick check for you is to measure off the weld on the housing end to the side of the perch. Verify they are the same side to side.
1.5 in is a LOT to be off one side to the other. Leaf springs would be forgiving, but...Id be concerned with being off that much side to side. If youre going through the frame with that rear shackle you DO NOT wanna have ANY DOUBTS while making those cuts. Really TAKE YOUR TIME with this and make ABSOLUTELY SURE its square under the rig.
It took me a solid month to get everything where I needed it to be and that included RE DOING the dimensions several times. Im pretty particular though.
Are you doing a C&T to the housing? What do you have going on for a drive shaft? The way the housing looks right now, it looks that the caster is pretty high?

DONT get HASTY now! Take the time to do it right to the best of what you have!
 
The rear is where I think I am off. Thanks for the idea of the plumb bob. I figured there was another way. I will measure and remeasure before anything is set. The front housing was CNT by proffits and the shackle reversal was from them also. I set up the front the way you explained it. Found the distance between the sping pins and the center of the hangers and went from there. The front axle is centered just concerned about drilling the hole. I can't be wrong. I have measured from the body mount closest to where the shackle will go. I am within a 1/8 from PS and DS of the center of the hole I need to drill. The axles are square to each other both sides measure 100" from center to center. Thanks for the advice and the slow down. I tend to get into a hurry.
 
Out of curiosity...what DID they set your caster angle at?
 
They set the castor at 5 I belive it has been awhile and to be honest I never looked to today. They said that that is where they have found it works for most rigs. I hope it is good I can't change it. I have the front set and geting the axle back togther so I can put it down on all 4'rs. I measeured the rear axle and it is centered must just be the body or flares I measured every way till sunday and its all square and centered. Front end is looking good and drilling the holes was'nt to bad once I got over the fear. I ran out of ways to measeure and remeasure so I drilled and worked out good. Are many of you running add-a-leafs and if so where did you buy them? The springs seem really soft and I would like a little more lift I think.
 
jefishing said:
They set the castor at 5 I belive it has been awhile and to be honest I never looked to today. They said that that is where they have found it works for most rigs. I hope it is good I can't change it. I have the front set and geting the axle back togther so I can put it down on all 4'rs. I measeured the rear axle and it is centered must just be the body or flares I measured every way till sunday and its all square and centered. Front end is looking good and drilling the holes was'nt to bad once I got over the fear. I ran out of ways to measeure and remeasure so I drilled and worked out good. Are many of you running add-a-leafs and if so where did you buy them? The springs seem really soft and I would like a little more lift I think.
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Good job. Thanks for the dimension on the caster too. That is what I set mine at too. I was wondering what the pro's were doing from a real shop.
Man A Fre has AAL's. They have the long and short ones and theyre not that expensive IIRC. 60 bucks/ two of the long ones.

K
 
I am at work right now so cant tell you for sure but I think it was like 23 on ps and 25 on dr. I went with 41" from center to center instead of 42" like they say. I will check tomorrow for sure and let you know. Chicago you think the long ones would be better and you just put 1 AAl in each pak right. Where do they usally place the AAL between the 3rd and 4th leaf or closer to the top. I have never messed with AAl stuff. Thanks
 
I have a set of the long MAF AAL's in the rear so the 40 does not sit ass-low (I have old worn out spring packs and a heavy tire/jerry can holder). They were longer than any of the leaves in the stock pack, slightly thicker and a littler narrower. I ended up making it the same length as my military leaf and cutting it to length with the chop saw (beveled the edges as well). That way it would not rub on the upper leaves and cause a stress crack. I have heard the short ones put stress on the above leaves since it is stiffer and shorter and and may cause the above leaves to crack.
 
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According to the MAF site, the longer AAL's allow for more flex than the shorties.
I had em in my 62 on all 4 corners. Dont recall where they were situated in the pack, but they did work very well. That rig flexed nicely. Have no experience other than that. I was looking at em to cure potential ass end sag too and also help with sag when the rig is loaded with gear. Its sitting pretty level NOW, so Im stashin that idea for later if I need it.
 
Well I ordered a set of the long AAL from man-a-fre. This should get things up a little higher. I got the front tires back on so I could take a look at things. This is driving me freakin nuts it just looks like something is off but I can't find it. I have measured everthing and the most I could find is an 1/8 here or there but not all in the same way so they can't add up. The shackles are pretty close to the frame so they might bottom out but I could not make them with the jack. Going to have brother n law over to look things over and see if I am just crazy which is probally not far off now that I have spent so much time lookin for a problem.
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There is about an 1 1/2 between frame and shackle
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Both ps and ds have the same angle at 25ish.
 
With my SR and SOA on flat springs the shackles look really close to the frame, probably less than 1/2" clearance but there is no evidence of contact on the paint on the bottom of the frame. Your springs ok, they will flatten out as you add the rest of the body and the springs settle.
 
Well got some things done the last couple of days. I have the wrap bar all made up and tached togther just waiting for the heim joint to show up so I can finish burning it all in. I welded the top bar to the frame I did'nt use any scab plate:bang:( got ahead of myself). Do you think it will hold up okay? I also got the manafre AAl's today and have the front all done. I ended bending the spring clamps out and running bolts through like Chicago did being I broke another one off while trying to bend it back. The AAL's where a great idea. The spring are just a little stiffer and the shackle angle in the front is way better I have some room for sag. It is not as close to the frame.
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Looks great!!!
The scab plates are a great idea , but I would think you'd be okay w/ out em. Could you maybe fit a scab plate around the cross member and weld it to the frame that way for a little extra re enforcement around it?
One thing I plan to do on mine when I pull the tub back off is add some gussets under the x member. I've heard these wrap bars can be subject to some pretty serious force. Since you're there, it's not a bad idea to do now.
 
Just going by the seat of my pants but that forward traction bar mount looks low, especially once you mount a shackle under it.
 
FLYINGLOW said:
Just going by the seat of my pants but that forward traction bar mount looks low, especially once you mount a shackle under it.
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Good eye! Youre right!
 
From the pic is does look low. I will be using the baby shackle from ruff stuff. I ran a string line around the yokes from the case to the rear end and lined up the wrap bar to follow the angle of the driveshaft and sit about an inch lower. I will rechecked once I get the heim joint from ruff stuff that way I will know for sure beacuse your right looks way to low. thanks
 
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