No problem. Finish it up and see how it looks, you can get some antisquat characteristics built in to traction bars.
Builds FlatRok40 build (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter jefishing
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No problem. Finish it up and see how it looks, you can get some antisquat characteristics built in to traction bars.
- Thread starter
- #82
Holly HUGENESS I got the AAL's done. I went through and redid all of teh leaf springs using the 46" long AAL's. I cut all of them the longest I could and placed them under the 2nd leaf. I must have gained 2"s of lift my little cruiser turned into a monster truck. I belive they will settle a little which will would be great Before
After
I ended up moving my rear shackle hangers abit to get matching angles both are sitting at 26. I have finally welded all of the hangers and feels good to have the axles set and I can finally move on
. Here is a pic o fthe front
I doubled checked my wrap bar mount and it still measure right it will follow the driveshaft angel and will hang down a 1". Going to get it all painted up then move on to the steering and brake lines.
After
I ended up moving my rear shackle hangers abit to get matching angles both are sitting at 26. I have finally welded all of the hangers and feels good to have the axles set and I can finally move on
. Here is a pic o fthe front
I doubled checked my wrap bar mount and it still measure right it will follow the driveshaft angel and will hang down a 1". Going to get it all painted up then move on to the steering and brake lines.
Looks good!
About what height are you from the floor to the bottom of the framerail?
About what height are you from the floor to the bottom of the framerail?
- Thread starter
- #84
Got the frame all painted and put the front fenders back on to see the whole thing. It's still tall but looks better. I think the shock and aww wore off a little. The frame sits at 24 inches off the floor with the 35's, atleast this gives me a push to run 37's. I really wanted to so now the search is on.
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Get those shock towers off there and buy some Ford ones!
The springs will likely settle at least an inch the first bump you hit even with the extra leaf. Why did you add a leaf? Its looking like some trimming will be required...
The springs will likely settle at least an inch the first bump you hit even with the extra leaf. Why did you add a leaf? Its looking like some trimming will be required...
- Thread starter
- #86
Ford towers are on the list. I never wrote the part number down so gonna have to do some searching but hopefully order some this week. I did the AAl beacuse the springs where flat and they seamed way to soft. I could pull the thing over holding on the the roll cage and pulling myself in the driver seat and I am 180. Granted i did not have shocks on yet so we will see. Trimming with 35's or you talking 37's. I think there is plenty of room but then again never drove a SOA cruiser. If so thats fine I have some spots in the back I would'nt mind getting rid of so I don't have the fix them and I am looking in ways to cut the front fenders but keep the inner fender.
flat springs is what you want. You can always pull the AAL though.
It looks like you will have to trim the rear of the wheel well opening even with the 35s. You will just have to try it out and see.
- Thread starter
- #88
Well I finished up the trac bar today and was going to put the c-clips in the rear axle so I can get the cover on. I ran into a problem. I had a guy in Co install my 4.88's in the 3rds and send them back to me. I gathered my tools and went after it. The center pin will not come out it hits the the ring gear is that normal. So as I understand I will have to remove the ring gear to get the pin out then put in c-clips and re install the ring gear.Is there a way to get around this?
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- #89
Well I ended up just grinding a little of the bottom of the ring gear. I figured that if I break a shaft I would not have the luxury of having a impact gun and torch wrench to remove the ring gear. I really hope I did'nt mess anything up by doing this just seemed the most logical. I think I might also have to redo the trac bar it does seem to sit alittle low I might have some anitsquat(need to read on that more). It took 5hrs to put c-clips in rear axle and a (as in one) bolt into the trac bar. It warped alittle while welding it and I was off by a smig so I had to redo the hole. Overall bad day in the shop some days your the dog and some days your the hyrdrant. Still beats working now to the drinking part of the day
You can NEVER underestimate the warping POWER of heat. When built mine, I had everything pretty locked in with bolts and had some GOOD tack welds in, and it still warped to where I had to do the same as you...oversize one of the holes.
You did the right thing grinding a little off the ring gear.
You will end up with negative antisquat if any. This will cause the back end sinks as torque is applied to the rear axle. There's lots of reading on this subject...
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- #92
Pulled the motor to day to tie up some loose ends and run brakes lines. I also started the twin stick setup to mock together before I put motor back in. Ran into some problems and hopefully somebody will chime in (George).I think this is how it goes but need to make sure. Here are some pics
I guess I cut rod to length and drill the hole for the ball
sits at a pretty good angle with that mess up the throw
Well what do ya think
I guess I cut rod to length and drill the hole for the ball
sits at a pretty good angle with that mess up the throw
Well what do ya think
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- #93
Talked to George today on the phone. I got the wrong kit. Other than that this thing is stout as hell. Can't wait to get things rolling. Have the most of the brake lines done just need to go across the firewall. Bolted up the AA clutch braket, welded everything up solid. Hopefully last time motor is out.
- Thread starter
- #94
Well I found myself in a bad situation. I sold my tires and had some other ones in mind but they sold. So now I need some new shoes of the 37 size. Here is my driving schedule I will drive to work sometimes which is only like 5 miles and around town on nice days with the kido's. I will do most of the wheelin in Co and some in SD. It will not be driven everyday. I have wanted some radial Iroks in mind till I did some reading and have heard that they have kind of a weak side wall (still might really like em)but also though of the bia's ones but never drove on a bias tire, also have been doing some reading on the pitbull rockers seem to be a good tire. I like the KM2's but no 37 in a 15in tire. I have been doing tons of reading but anybody have any other ideas to really confuse me? Let em fly trying to stay around the 300ish mark.
Bias swampers are great off road. They're noisy, pull and go lumpy if the truck sits for long, especially in the cold but I think those are a small price to pay and isn't why you buy them. I have never owned radial swampers but have never been impressed with what I have seen on the trail.
I had some 36" bias Iroks on my 85 mini. Did real good offroad, and the highway manners were'nt bad either. Ive still got em and plan on using them on my 40. They've been sitting for almost five years and are still holding air.
you can get pitbull radial rockers in a 37 for a 15" wheel. although they might still be on backorder. but you might as well bite the bullet and make the jump to 17s if you want to run 37+...you're going to have to sooner or later. i have km2s now and they have been an awesome tire in all but the sloppiest of mud. km2s onroad are about as nice as its gets for a mud terrain. when mine wear out im making the jump to 17s. offset the cost a little by selling the old rims.
find you a set of stock 80 wheels and go for a 345/75 km2. that would look great! i really like your build so far. i am so ready to be out of my pickup and in a 40.
find you a set of stock 80 wheels and go for a 345/75 km2. that would look great! i really like your build so far. i am so ready to be out of my pickup and in a 40.
- Thread starter
- #98
I have done some price checking and the pit bull are looking better all the time I can get radials 37x12.5x15 for about 300 and 37x12.5x17 for about 330 so I would probally just get he the 17's. I would like to do the KM2's but dam 380 a alittle pricey. The more I read the less I like the Iroks sounds like they have some issues with radials. I am just not sure if I would like bias ply beings I will be driving around town and down the hiway 50 60 miles to the lake every once in a while. I have time so i will keep reading. Keep the ideas coming. I have been in the dark about tires for awhile never planed on replacing mine so soon.
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- #99
Okay its between the Bias Iroks and the radial Pit Bull Rockers. Which do you guys think would get the best road use as in driveing around town short distances and some hwy. I am just worried about the bias tires never driven on them before. The off road part are they about equal as far as in all types of terrian. Real world exp would be great. The Iroks and can get here in town and the PBR's i would have to drive to Co to get. Need to help gents I can't seem to decide between the two.
Either way you go I think you will be pleased. I really like my Iroks, they seemed to wear good on the road. I probably put 1K road miles on them and they held up fine. You will notice road walk if you're not on a good flat surface, but thats about all.
I've heard good things about the PBR's too.
I've heard good things about the PBR's too.
