Flasher Trouble... !!! (1 Viewer)

[cooksflips]

Hello All and thank you for reading,
I have been trying to get my flashers working to get the 40 back on the road and I cant get them going. Here is the play by play.
- Last summer I cut out the factory rear brake/flasher/running light bulb housings and wired in LED lights. Everything worked great. Hazards, flashers, brakes all functioning.
- This summer flashers went out. Hazards still work. I have taken apart the Hazard switch and cleaned it... still no flashers.
- When I turn the Flasher switch on the column i can get a light on the right flasher front and rear,,, a very dim glow.
- I have taken the Flasher switch of the column and cleaned it up... still no flashers.
- I have replaced the Flasher relay at the fuse box.
- I have not replaced the Voltage Regulator, but I have not experienced any other electrical issues.
- Hazards are flashing and clicking like they are brand new

Ok... I found a Flasher switch on Amazon from Malaysia that looked identical to my factory one. I purchased it and it was not as advertised, so Amazon refunded me. The plastic clips it uses to house the wires do not match my original harness clip, but it looks like it may work with some custom fab. I have it, its free, so I though i may try and wire it up. As you will see in the pictures there is a large and small plastic box that plugs into the harness from the Flasher switch. On the factory switch there are three wires running from the switch into the small plastic clip where it connects with the harness. On the new Flasher switch there are only two wires running into the small plastic clip.

So... questions are 1- Can I direct wire this new Flasher Switch into my original harness by somehow not using one of the three wires running from the factory harness into the Flasher ?
2- Could my real problem be a bad voltage regulator?
3- Does anyone want this Flasher Switch from Malaysia ?

 

[3_puppies]

just a WAG, is the turn signal made for LED lights? we had an issue at work with a rig,turned out we needed a flasher for LED's, it had its own ground wire.

 

[Dizzy]

I thought that the flasher might need a certain current load to actually flash. My rear signals are not hooked up, and I can make the front ones turn on but not blink. Inside is something akin to a bimetal spring like an electric choke, if you are not drawing enough juice, then it won't get hot enough to break the circuit?

 

[cooksflips]

just a WAG, is the turn signal made for LED lights? we had an issue at work with a rig,turned out we needed a flasher for LED's, it had its own ground wire.

I was able to replace the flasher with the same flasher I had removed from the fusebox , which had no problem operating the flashers for over a year, but I am aware of this being a problem. Thank you for the response

 

[cooksflips]

I thought that the flasher might need a certain current load to actually flash. My rear signals are not hooked up, and I can make the front ones turn on but not blink. Inside is something akin to a bimetal spring like an electric choke, if you are not drawing enough juice, then it won't get hot enough to break the circuit?

Have you tried cleaning your Hazard switches ?

 

[45Kevin]

I have had numerous issues with my turn signals and flashers.

It always boiled down to a bad ground.

Take a wire and go around and bypass the stock grounding points, just to confirm that the ground is good.

Most of my issues involved the front turn signal lights.

 

[Dizzy]

Have you tried cleaning your Hazard switches ?

The unit is sealed closed, no?

 

[pigmony]

I just replaced my turn signals on all four corners. Grounds. I actually ran additional ground wires back to the frame for each enclosure. 45Kevin is on the same page. Make yourself a jumper to confirm, but grounding is almost certainly your issue.

 

[cooksflips]

I have had numerous issues with my turn signals and flashers.

It always boiled down to a bad ground.

Take a wire and go around and bypass the stock grounding points, just to confirm that the ground is good.

Most of my issues involved the front turn signal lights.

All the grounds have been cleaned and wire ends replaced with new connections to eliminate those damn bad grounds.

 

[cooksflips]

I just replaced my turn signals on all four corners. Grounds. I actually ran additional ground wires back to the frame for each enclosure. 45Kevin is on the same page. Make yourself a jumper to confirm, but grounding is almost certainly your issue.

All grounds on the entire harness are good.

 

[cooksflips]

The unit is sealed closed, no?

It is not sealed closed. It may difficult to open, and be careful. I typically pry mine open with an oyster knife and spray electrical cleaner in it This may get your flashing again. be careful not the brake any of the plastic.

 

[pigmony]

All grounds on the entire harness are good.

That's the thing, there are no ground wires in the harness. The enclosures ground to the chassis/body panels. I added ground wires into my harness to improve the grounding.

 

[sggoat]

I remember reading another thread (somewhere here) about LEDs and factory flashers. Apparently the issue is with the low current draw of the LEDs --they don't draw enough current to make the factory switches work properly. You'll prob have to get a flasher compatible with the LEDs. Search for trollholes light bulbs for land cruisers thread--I think that's where I saw the posts--

 

[JohnnyC]

Flasher relay per @Coolerman

I had totally forgotten about this thread, but have something that may be of interest to anyone converting to the two or three terminal LED flasher from Super Bright LEDS.

I have a connector socket that will directly fit the two terminal LED Relay part # CF12ANL-01 from Super Bright. I also can make an adapter sub-harness that plugs into the OEM "T" flasher connector one one end and has this connector on the other end. See the bad pic. No cutting of your OEM harness!
I can also make an adapter for the three terminal LED flasher they sell. This flasher has a feature the CF12ANL-01 does not: the clicking sound when activated! It does require a ground. I can make an adapter that would plug into the "T" connector, has a lead with a ring terminal to ground under an existing bolt, and goes to a three terminal socket the three terminal flasher would plug into. I could even make a kit that included the flasher relay.

I updated my web site with this info and pricing. Link in my sig... Look under Misc ElectricalView attachment 935192 View attachment 935193 View attachment 935194

 

[JohnnyC]

was looking at led on the fj40 lights thread.... there is talk about the 3 prong working possibly? FL3

 

[pbgbottle]

There is a thread around where you open up the oem flasher unit and stuff a digital flasher unit inside the oem housing. U most likely need a electronic flasher to work with led. For me I just cut the oem plug off and put new ends on the wires and plugged a modem flasher unit on.