Builds FJZ -> HDJ -> 1HDT, 5 Speed, Locked, Lifted and Loved 80 Series Build - PTO ! (1 Viewer)

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That was the perfect time to do the rear main seal, you did right?

Lol, yes I did rear main, front seal, cam cover seal etc, I bought a full gasket set and did everything I could get to without "opening" it up. I could see from below the bores where perfect and the numbers I got supported that so no point going there I figured.

I will do the transmission syncros, and bearings so I figure while I am in there I may as well do an underdrive, low range and Part Time conversion while I am in there .
 
Transmission is a 5 Speed H151F which is factory for the HDJ 80.

@cruiseroutfit was kind enough to send me over an Under drive, Reduction gears set, part time kit and some Aisin Free Wheel hubs which should offset the impact of the 35/37" rubber as well as give me some better economy with the front diff optional.

The H151 had a love affair with 1/2 syncros so I will do those, bearings and seals while I am in there.

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This here is the Money shot as I will be needing that gear later :)

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When I got the truck she was missing the PTO Cover off the transmission and someone had made a "replacement" it seemed to work and was ugly ..

When I got the truck a new one was on order and it arroved not long after .

BUT as luck would have it I no longer need it anyway as I got a present on a pallet .

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PTO Arrived a shipped with no issues

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Even fitted in my Subaru after I ditch the pallet
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I guess this goes about there , anyone would think this was made by Mr Toyota himself.

Anyone got an idea why PTO's on 80's where not more popular ? Seems weird that Toyota had them and allowed for them and yet there are bugger all of them. Makes you think they might have a design flaw or there was an issue with them on the AWD ??
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Now to get her cleaned and fit it all up to drop back in the truck .
 
I guess this goes about there , anyone would think this was made by Mr Toyota himself.

Anyone got an idea why PTO's on 80's where not more popular ? Seems weird that Toyota had them and allowed for them and yet there are bugger all of them. Makes you think they might have a design flaw or there was an issue with them on the AWD ??
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Now to get her cleaned and fit it all up to drop back in the truck .
Those PTOs are Really hard to find, what’s even more rare are all the bits that go inside the cab. I had fully planned on doing a PTO on my next 80 build, but when I saw how many bits and pieces were needed that were not available I abandoned that idea.
 
Those PTOs are Really hard to find, what’s even more rare are all the bits that go inside the cab. I had fully planned on doing a PTO on my next 80 build, but when I saw how many bits and pieces were needed that were not available I abandoned that idea.
There isn't many cabin parts just a pull handle and a cable. Everything else appears to be stock 80 just needs some cutting
 
hmm so I hit an issue with the Clutch as I ordered a clutch to suit a 1HDT off @cruiseroutfit thinking they were all the same, surfaced the flywheel and went to put her on .. Doh !!! wrong size, the 1HDT has a smaller flywheel so I have two options, to either get the right clutch and run a smaller setup or buy a new Flywheel and run the bigger clutch ... the fun of conversions.

The Factory 1HDT Clutch from the HDJ80, you can see it is smaller

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The Factory presure plate on top of the new presure plate

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Part and year etc was correct for what I thought I had

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But no real way to run it on my new surfaced small add flywheel. Ring gear is same it is just the mouting surface that is smaller.

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Go big or go home. Flywheel get my vote

Yeah yeah never heard of anyone with a 1HDT Cruiser complain cause their clutch is to big. Luckily Cruiser Outfitters had a flywheel to do the job so I was back in business.

Fitted the new flywheel and the already supplied clutch with new bolts etc
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With the flywheel sorted it was back to getting the Engine and Transmission into the FJZ80 so I could work on everything else. Luckily for my Mr Toyota was nice enough to make the chassis mount universal so the 1HDT goes straight in and onto factory mounts. Drivers side is the same and passengers side it just using the other hole.

Like it was meant to be there
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So it is fair to say the FJZ80 was not fitted with a PTO from factory so needs a few undates. Weirdly enough the HDJ80 seems to have been fitted which may explain why it was missing the factory PTO Cover. The only real difference is a few captive nuts to hold the handle and a hole for the cable. Things like the PTO Cable hole appear to have been cut before paint so I guess it came off the line at Toyota with it as an Option or at least an option for the option.

Luckily as I said above the HDJ80 had them in place so I can copy, take parts from it and keep the factiry style install going.
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There is a hole in the firewall just below the go pedal which the PTO Cables goes through.
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You can see it inside as well as the M8 Captive thread in the side of the pedal plateform used to retain the cable

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The FJZ80 Support ( on left ) has holes for the PTO handle but no nuts, the HDJ80 support has the nuts in place.

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Apart from nuts they are the same and you could easily add them if you didn't have the factory option availble.

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All that just to hold this little handle so you can Turn and Pull to engage the PTO Gearbox.
 
The Factory PTO is designed to fit under the Stock Front Bumper so relative to most winch setups it is very close in to the chassis .

The lower section is almost inline with the bottom of the chassis also so you dont loose any real approach or ground clearance.

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With the engine and transmission etc in it is time to turn my attention to the exhaust. After looking around at a few options I decided to just make one myself so I could get it to run on the inside of the chassis rail and rear exit. As they say parts these days are only as far away as eBay so I got some bends and had a local place drop off a 20ft length of 3" stainless. Plan is I will use 3" stainless and built a custom dump using the factory Bell onto a V-Band etc.
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With the engine and transmission etc in it is time to turn my attention to the exhaust. After looking around at a few options I decided to just make one myself so I could get it to run on the inside of the chassis rail and rear exit. As they say parts these days are only as far away as eBay so I got some bends and had a local place drop off a 20ft length of 3" stainless. Plan is I will use 3" stainless and built a custom dump using the factory Bell onto a V-Band etc. View attachment 2751964

I prefer a longer flexible coupling, especially with 3" exhaust. You'll have some tight clearances, and a diesel shakes a lot on shut down and start up.
Having more flex between engine mounted exhaust, and fans mounted exhaust is s good thing.

Check out my 105 build on my signature for how I did mine. Clearances are less than ⅜ in places, and no rattles or vibrations.

Once you're past the bell housing, there's no need for any bend greater than 45 degrees.
A bend of 45⁰ or less head minimal impact on gas flow, being that, flow is disrupted more
 
I prefer a longer flexible coupling, especially with 3" exhaust. You'll have some tight clearances, and a diesel shakes a lot on shut down and start up.
Having more flex between engine mounted exhaust, and fans mounted exhaust is s good thing.

Check out my 105 build on my signature for how I did mine. Clearances are less than ⅜ in places, and no rattles or vibrations.

Once you're past the bell housing, there's no need for any bend greater than 45 degrees.
A bend of 45⁰ or less head minimal impact on gas flow, being that, flow is disrupted more

Yeah I considered going longer and if i shows it needs it I will just swap it out and go with a longer one.

I would imagine with a 3" and stock turbo there will be no flow issues, not sure how you got over the rear diff area with nothing more than a 45 degree bend.
 
The path for the 3" is straight down and back, nothing fancy and I retained the factoty 1HDT cast mouth as I see no benifit from making a new one when it works well and the cast behaves better than the stainless at that heat. I could be wrong though I am not an exhaust guy .

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At the back I have stopped just over the rear and will finish off the exit when I get the rear tank in and spare tire out. I want it to exist same place as stock so might have to play around with the tank a little, not sure yet.

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