Builds FJZ -> HDJ -> 1HDT, 5 Speed, Locked, Lifted and Loved 80 Series Build - PTO !

Joined
Aug 7, 2012
Messages
311
Visit site
Now the FJZ80 is now looking like it needed some manual goodness and diesel power lol.

With the manual trans mount sorted it is time to look at the shifter location as the tunnel is completely different in the Auto 80's as compared to the Manual 80's
2020-07-26 18.39.48.jpg
 
Joined
Aug 7, 2012
Messages
311
Visit site
Parts collection continues and I was lucky enough to get the opportunity to pick up a Factory PTO Setup for an 80 Series, now I am well aware that the rareness will potentially make it a PITA to get it sorted but the coolness factor, weight, capability and servicability will offset that and make it worth the effort.

I have never actually seen a PTO to suit an 80 series in th flesh so it should be educational if nothing else. I have had plenty of PTO's on my 40's but from what I am told they are a much more refined solution.
1.jpg
2.jpg
3.jpg
6.jpg
 
Joined
Feb 14, 2015
Messages
118
Location
Palo Alto, CA
Visit site
With the engine out of the way it was time to have a look at what modifications I needed to make to the FJZ80 in order to allow a factory style fitment of the Manual Transmission. I had heard there were differences between the cross member locations as well as the cross members. This sort of proved to be true but wasn't as bad as I thought.
View attachment 2728283

The auto cross member and the manual cross member are exactly the same, the only difference is that on the manual it sits further forward so due to the taper in the chassis rails this means the bolts are further in relative to the factory slots. There is a small bolt location plate that sits on the slots which is spot welded so you pop that off and Auto becomes manual. I wanted to use the Auto Cross member as the manual one was crusty from years of love.

The top crusty one is the factory manual, the bottom clean one is the Auto.

View attachment 2728286
The trans mount mounting holes are exactly the same .

View attachment 2728287

You can see the crusty one sits in closer but still within same slots

View attachment 2728288View attachment 2728289

I didn't take a picture of the chassis but the Auto Chassis has the Manual Trans mount holes in it from factory it just does not have the captive nuts. This leaves you two options, you can just use nuts and bolts or you can weld in nuts / make nut plates. I made a nut plate using the chassis as a template and drilled a third hole in the center to spot weld it in place giving me the easy of fitting without screwing around with nuts. End result is that to look you can't tell it isn't factory and if you knew the only sign is that the Auto Holes have nuts in them which factory manual chassis does not.
You can attach a 1/4" plate pointing forward with two sets of 2 holes . I think it goes forward 86mm but can measure it. You use the old location for the cross member, attach the plate to it with 12 (?mm) bolts and mount the insulator on the front holes of the plate. No welding, no change in the frame. I put almost 50K miles in 2+ years and it holds great. I'll try to photograph and attach a photo this afternoon.

88E817BE-A7D8-4562-AF4E-C005F10CF97F.jpeg
85F0E7B1-052D-411B-8118-8378C2C29E74.jpeg
 
Last edited:

mudandrock

Back 40 Imports
Joined
Sep 11, 2014
Messages
607
Location
Montana
Website
back40imports.com
With the engine out of the way it was time to have a look at what modifications I needed to make to the FJZ80 in order to allow a factory style fitment of the Manual Transmission. I had heard there were differences between the cross member locations as well as the cross members. This sort of proved to be true but wasn't as bad as I thought.
View attachment 2728283

The auto cross member and the manual cross member are exactly the same, the only difference is that on the manual it sits further forward so due to the taper in the chassis rails this means the bolts are further in relative to the factory slots. There is a small bolt location plate that sits on the slots which is spot welded so you pop that off and Auto becomes manual. I wanted to use the Auto Cross member as the manual one was crusty from years of love.

The top crusty one is the factory manual, the bottom clean one is the Auto.

View attachment 2728286
The trans mount mounting holes are exactly the same .

View attachment 2728287

You can see the crusty one sits in closer but still within same slots

View attachment 2728288View attachment 2728289

I didn't take a picture of the chassis but the Auto Chassis has the Manual Trans mount holes in it from factory it just does not have the captive nuts. This leaves you two options, you can just use nuts and bolts or you can weld in nuts / make nut plates. I made a nut plate using the chassis as a template and drilled a third hole in the center to spot weld it in place giving me the easy of fitting without screwing around with nuts. End result is that to look you can't tell it isn't factory and if you knew the only sign is that the Auto Holes have nuts in them which factory manual chassis does not.

The transmission insulator that sits in the mount is different between the two transmissions. Might want to check that the one on your h151 isn’t too crusty before you get ready to set it in there. Cool build will subscribe!
 
Joined
Aug 7, 2012
Messages
311
Visit site
The transmission insulator that sits in the mount is different between the two transmissions. Might want to check that the one on your h151 isn’t too crusty before you get ready to set it in there. Cool build will subscribe!

Really, damn I will have to hve a closser look I didnt pay much attention after I saw the holes where the same, thanks for the heads up
 
Joined
Feb 14, 2015
Messages
118
Location
Palo Alto, CA
Visit site
Amazing. It's very inexpensive to build. Replacement burners are $15, so I keep a spare, and it's not altitude sensitive. I had no choice because of space limitations.
We Love it. After 50K miles in 2+ years we have nothing to change. First trips we had an online list, but at this point it is perfect for a short weekend or 2-3 months on the road. It's always packed except the fridge, and in 30 min we can be mobile.

This is a view of the kitchen, living room, dining room and play room. All in one shot. Shower is outside.

We are currently installing a 1HDT/H55 into a 1971 40 series that my daughter did a frame off 15 years ago. That is as close as I get to a 1HDT. The 80 has a 1HDFT. We also have a 60 (13bt/h55) and a 40 (13bt/h55). They will move as long as there is fuel on the planet.

BTW IG account @big_red_adventures.

If you have any specifics, electrical, etc, PM me. I have the electrical diagrams changes, etc.

Cheers mate.

IMG_5389.JPG


IMG_5551.JPG
 

mudgudgeon

SILVER Star
Joined
Dec 17, 2007
Messages
5,051
Location
Across the pond, and upside down
Visit site
Amazing. It's very inexpensive to build. Replacement burners are $15, so I keep a spare, and it's not altitude sensitive. I had no choice because of space limitations.
Awesome cheers. I have contemplated very similar as a way of finding a more compact stove in a more wind proof enclosure than what I can buy. May have to revisit it.


Hi-jack over
 
Joined
Aug 7, 2012
Messages
311
Visit site
So fitting the clutch Master Cylinder isn't as simple as just bolting it on and there is a bit of Toyota Trickery going on. The FJZ Firewall where the Clutch will go has a nice hole in it and a few welds stud BUT the hole is for a wiring grommet and the studs are for other junk. The factory Clutch Master does go here but it needs a different hole and bolts.
FJZ80CLutchPad.JPG

The FJZ 80 Fire wall and Clutch Mounting area, on initial inspection it looks to be ready to go. But it is wrong hole size in wrong place.

HDJ80Clutch.jpg


As I said before one thing making this easy is that the HDJ80 will be killed once done so it had a perfect template to make the holes.

HDJ80Clutch1.jpg


The template is easy to locate as the firewall pressings are the same so you simply line it up on the FJZ80 firewall using the factory humps, mark it, cut it, drill it and bolt it all in.

ClutchFZJ2.jpg


Simply hold in place, draw around it

ClutchFZJ1.jpg


Ready to go, note the center hole is not center and the bumps on the firewall do not match the holes required.
 
Joined
Feb 14, 2015
Messages
118
Location
Palo Alto, CA
Visit site
So fitting the clutch Master Cylinder isn't as simple as just bolting it on and there is a bit of Toyota Trickery going on. The FJZ Firewall where the Clutch will go has a nice hole in it and a few welds stud BUT the hole is for a wiring grommet and the studs are for other junk. The factory Clutch Master does go here but it needs a different hole and bolts.
View attachment 2732532
The FJZ 80 Fire wall and Clutch Mounting area, on initial inspection it looks to be ready to go. But it is wrong hole size in wrong place.

View attachment 2732533

As I said before one thing making this easy is that the HDJ80 will be killed once done so it had a perfect template to make the holes.

View attachment 2732534

The template is easy to locate as the firewall pressings are the same so you simply line it up on the FJZ80 firewall using the factory humps, mark it, cut it, drill it and bolt it all in.

View attachment 2732545

Simply hold in place, draw around it

View attachment 2732544

Ready to go, note the center hole is not center and the bumps on the firewall do not match the holes required.
Can you post a photo of the clutch pedal? I had two different clutches when did the build and they were different and had to choose one.
 

mudandrock

Back 40 Imports
Joined
Sep 11, 2014
Messages
607
Location
Montana
Website
back40imports.com
So fitting the clutch Master Cylinder isn't as simple as just bolting it on and there is a bit of Toyota Trickery going on. The FJZ Firewall where the Clutch will go has a nice hole in it and a few welds stud BUT the hole is for a wiring grommet and the studs are for other junk. The factory Clutch Master does go here but it needs a different hole and bolts.
View attachment 2732532
The FJZ 80 Fire wall and Clutch Mounting area, on initial inspection it looks to be ready to go. But it is wrong hole size in wrong place.

View attachment 2732533

As I said before one thing making this easy is that the HDJ80 will be killed once done so it had a perfect template to make the holes.

View attachment 2732534

The template is easy to locate as the firewall pressings are the same so you simply line it up on the FJZ80 firewall using the factory humps, mark it, cut it, drill it and bolt it all in.

View attachment 2732545

Simply hold in place, draw around it

View attachment 2732544

Ready to go, note the center hole is not center and the bumps on the firewall do not match the holes required.
I’ve never ran into that issue with the non-boosted version.
 
Joined
Aug 7, 2012
Messages
311
Visit site
Can you post a photo of the clutch pedal? I had two different clutches when did the build and they were different and had to choose one.

Sure I will get some on the weekend when I am back in the shop


I’ve never ran into that issue with the non-boosted version.

Ahh ok so you used the factory hole and the humps lines up with the bolts ? That makes sense
 

mudandrock

Back 40 Imports
Joined
Sep 11, 2014
Messages
607
Location
Montana
Website
back40imports.com
Sure I will get some on the weekend when I am back in the shop




Ahh ok so you used the factory hole and the humps lines up with the bolts ? That makes sense
I don’t think all those humps lineup perfectly with the bolts. With that style cylinder I didn’t have to cut the firewall hole that the push rod goes through any bigger, but there is something off centered with those spot welds. I think there is a thread on here somewhere where a guy showed the actual measurements where to drill those holes if you look around
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Top Bottom