You should consider being a vendor here on mud. That setup looks clean. Not for audiophiles, but neither is a 5" paper cone.
FJ80 Subwoofer and Amplifier Mounting (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Whole Hog Tech
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That's exactly right.
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- #23
For anybody who doesn't have a bezel on their factory interior panel, it is available from Toyota as PN 86269-60060. I had a few people send notes over about this - hope it helps!
This looks very tempting, I wonder if it's that much louder than the
kenwood KSC-SW10. I suppose that it depends on the amp as well but it does look great, nicley done! Is there a mud discount
Are they in stock? Again, very
kenwood KSC-SW10. I suppose that it depends on the amp as well but it does look great, nicley done! Is there a mud discount
Are they in stock? Again, very
I think he means phase cancellation of the actual sound waves.
With that setup, the rarefaction stroke, being in opposite phase of the compression stroke, will cause cancellation at frequencies whose wavelengths are longer than the dimensions of the baffle.
Not trying to pick a fight, just sayin'.
Of course, even if you put some kind of gasket between the driver and the interior panel, the driver would still effectively see a very leaky sealed enclosure, since the interior panel isn't even close to air tight. You need a highish-Q driver with as low an Fs as possible if you're going with a setup like that. Or low end EQ.
Jon
That's what I'm thinking...soundwaves from the rear of the driver are 180 out of phase to those from the front, thus they cancel...but the OEM driver was set up the same way, unless it has a sealed back?
I'm sure it's way better than stock but a sub needs to be in an enclosure, whether ported, or sealed, to limit cone excursion (unless designed for free-air applications) and the ole 180 out-of-phase thing too. Also, jus sayin...performance will be much improved if in an enclosure.
Do you have a wiring diagram that shows how to use the existing wiring from the stock amp setup to the new amp setup? I can't seem to get it right. Thanks.
TJ96TLC
SILVER Star
Same here, I'm wondering which wires to use for the input and remote wire with my new amp. I'm guessing we all need this to get the wires into RCA's
Stinger SGN11 Fixed line output converter General Cables SGN 11
Stinger SGN11 Fixed line output converter General Cables SGN 11
Great idea
Exactly the same requirements I had in 2006 when I did this ....
...you have a slightly more elegent mounting bracket
Nice work.I was very pleased with my results and can confirm your statements about the performance increase.
I'm not trying to pick a fight either but why overthink this
We are talking about a big tin can with minimal insulation and most owners running heavy lugged tires ... not exactly an audiophiles dream platform.
I have seen a couple guys build enclosures that fit behind the panel must most end up being much more work then intended and those I heard did not sound any different than mine above
After running the single 8" for a while I was building a drawer unit and decided to use it to upgrade to 2-10" subs and built the enclosure out of .... OMG ...ready?? .... plywood
It sounds fine .. none of the issues I was told to expect. Would I do it in a vehicle designed for audio competitions ... no I would use every advantage but for the average system there are no worries. I am just saying, not everything must be done the Nth degree.
This 8" system won't please everybody and if you want something to wake your neighbors look elsewhere but I give it a big thumbs up for anybody looking to get an upgrade without losing space and keeping things hidden from prying eyes.
(no I am not affiliated with them
)
TJ96TLC
SILVER Star
Buy.com - Kicker CVT65 Woofer
I have this with a bridged 2 channel amp. This speaker is marine rated and fits the factory bracket with no trimming. Hooking it up this weekend. Keep in mind, I'm not looking for a ton of bass. This speaker is a shallow mount and quite robust. Its for sealed or open air applications. I used a MTX Thunder 502x amp. Total costs $175 including hardware.
I have this with a bridged 2 channel amp. This speaker is marine rated and fits the factory bracket with no trimming. Hooking it up this weekend. Keep in mind, I'm not looking for a ton of bass. This speaker is a shallow mount and quite robust. Its for sealed or open air applications. I used a MTX Thunder 502x amp. Total costs $175 including hardware.
TJ96TLC
SILVER Star
Oh, and I put this inside the whole fender and compartment area.
100^ Rattle Trap Sound Deadener Noise Killer
Its in the rest of the truck as well. Its amazing for sound deadening.
100^ Rattle Trap Sound Deadener Noise Killer
Its in the rest of the truck as well. Its amazing for sound deadening.
Great idea
Exactly the same requirements I had in 2006 when I did this ....
...you have a slightly more elegent mounting bracket
I was very pleased with my results and can confirm your statements about the performance increase.
I'm not trying to pick a fight either but why overthink this
We are talking about a big tin can with minimal insulation and most owners running heavy lugged tires ... not exactly an audiophiles dream platform.
I have seen a couple guys build enclosures that fit behind the panel must most end up being much more work then intended and those I heard did not sound any different than mine above
After running the single 8" for a while I was building a drawer unit and decided to use it to upgrade to 2-10" subs and built the enclosure out of .... OMG ...ready?? .... plywood
It sounds fine .. none of the issues I was told to expect. Would I do it in a vehicle designed for audio competitions ... no I would use every advantage but for the average system there are no worries. I am just saying, not everything must be done the Nth degree.
This 8" system won't please everybody and if you want something to wake your neighbors look elsewhere but I give it a big thumbs up for anybody looking to get an upgrade without losing space and keeping things hidden from prying eyes.
(no I am not affiliated with them
True - most people don't care about quality sound, much less even know how accurate reproduction sounds.
Dude, as long as you're happy with it, that's all that matters.
Jon
Looks good! Love the stealthi-ness!!!
I know it won't come close to hitting as hard as a JL 8W3 sub in a small enclosure, but I'm really curious to hear how it sounds. How would you compare that setup to one that's in a small enclosure?
I know it won't come close to hitting as hard as a JL 8W3 sub in a small enclosure, but I'm really curious to hear how it sounds. How would you compare that setup to one that's in a small enclosure?
Still looking for how folks have setup the wiring to the amp - using the stock wiring from the stock amp. My amp has high level inputs so no RCA required, just using the wiring from the stock setup. Can't seem to get the remote to kick on the amp with the head unit - do I need a dedicated wire??? The gray has 12V and the Red-Black remote has 2+V. Would like to hear back if you have a simialr setup. Thanks.
TJ96TLC
SILVER Star
Amp
This is my setup as mentioned above. It worked fine last night, but today it cuts the amp on and off intermittently. I plan on letting my cousin have a look at it, he is good with audio.
This is my setup as mentioned above. It worked fine last night, but today it cuts the amp on and off intermittently. I plan on letting my cousin have a look at it, he is good with audio.
TJ96TLC
SILVER Star
Its precut for an 8" if I end up not liking the 6.5". I just have to cut the metal bracket.
Nice product you guys have there. I am doing some prep work to install a ppure sine inverter into my 97 LC80. Inside the rear panel is a good candidate but was stuggling on how to mount it. Any Ideas??
There was this one https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/111158-replacement-upgrade-subwoofer-project-update.html . Don't give this guy any money though. He owes about half a million towards a boat fraud case.
