Two hammers. One medium, one small, on opposing sides, light frequently tapping, one as back up to the other.
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #42
seemed to turn out ok, thank you for the advice, unfortunately the bolts are running behind and i have to run to fastenal for some washers tomorrow.
Separately, I am looking at some coils for my front, no plans on raise or adding too much weight, will the stock EMU work will with OEM shocks that are new? I am confused by the 2" lift? I am assuming the new springs add an increase in height without technically being a lift? I don't really want a lift.
Yes the OME springs will work with stick shocks.
You want the "stock height" springs. The ones called out as 2.5" means 2.5" over stock height when they were new, not over sagged springs.
- Thread starter
- #44
i've tried for a couple hours of using hammers, these things are not budging, is a gasket solvent a good idea? torch?
This is a PROCESS, not a one-shot solution.
1) PB Blaster sprayed on the nuts, cone washers. (Not WD-40, as it is not a penetrant.)
2) BRASS hammer on the ends of the studs.
3) Using an old flat bladed screwdriver you don't care about, lay it flat against the face of the drive flange. Place the tip against the outside edge of the cone washer, 90° to the slit. Tap the end of the screwdriver a few times, reasonably hard.
4) Move the screwdriver to the face of the cone washer and place the tip of the screwdriver into the slit of the cone washer and again, tap the screwdriver reasonably hard. Do this 2-3 times on each.
5) Hit the end of the stud with a BRASS hammer. Hit it hard, straight on. You do NOT want to bend a stud or break it off.
6) Repeat the PB Blaster in between steps.
7) As a LAST resort, you can hit the outside edge of the drive flange, right next to the stud, almost on the hub part. Don't do this hard, as you will be deforming the drive flange and the hole where the cone sits.
8) You can also find a deep well socket that barely fits over the stud, but will rest on the cone washer. Then hit the end of the socket to break loose the cone washer.
9) Whoever was in there before caulked the crap out of everything and that's not letting them come loose. BraKleen will dissolve the silicone caulk to some degree.
Don't forget to remove the retaining clip on the end of the axle.
- Thread starter
- #46
I've attempted 1,2,3.
I've let it soak for a couple days, car is sitting in a garage at this point. I am going to buy a brass chisel as I am concerned about damaging anything using a steel screwdriver to try 4.
You may also be able to get hold of the cone washers with some small vise grips and twist them back and forth. This will basically junk them, but you may be looking at getting new ones from Toyota anyway. They are readily available. Maybe get new studs, nuts, cone washers and flat washers.
Zjohnsonua
SILVER Star
Been down the road you're on once or twice. You're going to be replacing all the hardware at this point, so reach for the nuclear option: grab your propane/MAPP torch and heat the heck out of the stud and cone washers. This will take care of whatever goo is in there holding you back. It will also relax the springiness in the cones' spring steel to some degree and allow you to drive them out.
Considering the general condition of those knuckles, it may not be a bad plan to replace the trunion stud and nuts while you're there. And make sure you torque the heck out of those trunions on reassembly, and then check that torque each time you change the oil. That'll keep you from needing to do another knuckle job too soon.
Considering the general condition of those knuckles, it may not be a bad plan to replace the trunion stud and nuts while you're there. And make sure you torque the heck out of those trunions on reassembly, and then check that torque each time you change the oil. That'll keep you from needing to do another knuckle job too soon.
- Thread starter
- #49
Well I got medieval and used the torch. Are you even supposed to use gasket sealant on this? I've never seen a video of someone applying this, nor read. Do you think this side was leaking and the guy decided to use gasket sealant to stop the bleed? How bad condition do you think the seals are??
![IMG_4815[2036].JPG](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/img_4815-2036-jpg.2780862/ "IMG_4815[2036].JPG")
Zjohnsonua
SILVER Star
There's supposed to be a paper gasket there. They used RTV at some point instead. Looks like a pretty normal aged knuckle otherwise. Replace the seal, finish out the knuckle build, and maintain torque on those trunion nuts.
- Thread starter
- #51
So I completed installing the oil pan and rebuilding the front knuckles, and replacing front shocks, steering damper.
I am doing the rear shocks next week but I was expecting some of the noise to improve when driving, I notice this noise when accelerating 45MPH+ you can hear it in the video:
Basically the noise is the humming noise when I put my foot on the gas pedal, As soon as I lift off the gas pedal it goes away in the video, I do it a couple times. It sounds like it's a driveshaft issue but I did grease it a month or so ago and haven't drove a whole lot.
Any other tips?
I am doing the rear shocks next week but I was expecting some of the noise to improve when driving, I notice this noise when accelerating 45MPH+ you can hear it in the video:
Basically the noise is the humming noise when I put my foot on the gas pedal, As soon as I lift off the gas pedal it goes away in the video, I do it a couple times. It sounds like it's a driveshaft issue but I did grease it a month or so ago and haven't drove a whole lot.
Any other tips?
First time I've tried a trouble shoot video on my smartphone. I certainly heard the sound. I can't even guess what it is. Sad to say, I would be concerned. Doesn't seem like u-joints to me.
- Thread starter
- #53
I understand it's not the best recording haha but it's all I could do by myself, it doesn't sound much different than the video other than louder. I am not bothered by the noise, just don't want to neglect anything if it can get worse. Sounds like a school bus which is suitable for a 3FE
It's your turbos kicking in!
Zjohnsonua
SILVER Star
gear whine. either trans or diffs. does it do this all the time or only while cold?
- Thread starter
- #56
All the time at the start of 40-45mph+, doesn't matter cold and hot, going to try to change the diff fluid soon but not sure if that would help.
I notice a change in the gear whine that comes from the diffs and transfer case after I change their fluids. It's most noticeable when replacing the transfer case fluid.
- Thread starter
- #58
changed the front so far and no change in sound, i will do the rear and transfer next. There were a few metal specs on the drain plug
Also because I did the knuckles the stuff that came out was pure sludge since the inner seal was done.- Thread starter
- #59
Changed the transfer case & the rear differential, they all needed to be changed, fluid was dark... Unfortunately no change in sound, any ideas what else I can try?changed the front so far and no change in sound, i will do the rear and transfer next. There were a few metal specs on the drain plug
Just have to listen to the direction/part that it comes from.
When I first got my LC at 170K miles I drove round trip from Chicago to NYC with just paste in the front differential. It used to make a similar whine around 50mph. All the oil and grease had been mixing for quite some time. I pulled the front diff and planned on a rebuild. After cleaning it didn't look bad at all. I just adjusted the lash and buttoned it back up with new oil. I later replaced the birfields and all the axle bearings, seals and gaskets. Here it is at 250K miles
When I first got my LC at 170K miles I drove round trip from Chicago to NYC with just paste in the front differential. It used to make a similar whine around 50mph. All the oil and grease had been mixing for quite some time. I pulled the front diff and planned on a rebuild. After cleaning it didn't look bad at all. I just adjusted the lash and buttoned it back up with new oil. I later replaced the birfields and all the axle bearings, seals and gaskets. Here it is at 250K miles
