FJ80 leaking gasoline like the BP spill

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saltycoconuts

saltycoconuts

Joined
Feb 10, 2017
Threads
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Location
San Diego
Hey there! It's just about that time of month again where I have found another issue that the PO hasnt mended to. Since owning my FJ80 from January there has been an acute smell of gasoline. Originally I thought it was just because of age and perhaps the injector was being a bit strong. Well 4 months later smell is still around and on monday I saw that I had a gasoline puddle in my driveway. Well that wasn't too bad I crawled under the mess and inspected my tank. The first leak was where the seam of the tank is. I thought I was able to fix it by crimping the metal together (havent seen how that held up) but there is also a leak above the tank (have no idea where or what but its there). Im just looking for answers on what I should do or what to expect.
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Do you have excess pressure when you unscrew the gas cap, by chance? I know if the charcoal canister is clogged sufficiently, the pressure can crack the tank.
 
A properly functioning vapor recovery system will hold pressure, depending on conditions, more or less. There is a channel for the e brake cable in the top of the tank, the way that it is formed makes a highly stressed/stretched spot where they commonly crack. Cant see the spot with the tank installed, but: Does it only leak when running, if so, likely a line leak. If it leaks when parked, and doesn't when ~1/2 tank or less, its most likely the tank.
 
Tools R Us said:
A properly functioning vapor recovery system will hold pressure, depending on conditions, more or less. There is a channel for the e brake cable in the top of the tank, the way that it is formed makes a highly stressed/stretched spot where they commonly crack. Cant see the spot with the tank installed, but: Does it only leak when running, if so, likely a line leak. If it leaks when parked, and doesn't when ~1/2 tank or less, its most likely the tank.
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Hmmm interesting I will have to do a test when I get home. When I parked the truck and got out there was a generous puddle and thats why I felt the urge to start a discussion about it. When I was parked in my driveway yesterday and took a clamp to the seal it was leaking but eventually stopped after I closed the seam. But, I noticed build up on top of the tank shortly after
 
Tools R Us said:
A properly functioning vapor recovery system will hold pressure, depending on conditions, more or less. There is a channel for the e brake cable in the top of the tank, the way that it is formed makes a highly stressed/stretched spot where they commonly crack. Cant see the spot with the tank installed, but: Does it only leak when running, if so, likely a line leak. If it leaks when parked, and doesn't when ~1/2 tank or less, its most likely the tank.
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Do you know of any GM replacement tanks that can be used? I called Toyota and they quoted me 1k for a new tank, I shed a tear then hung up
 
The tank is unique. Have replaced with used, and have patched, brazed on. Do you have a good local radiator shop, they sometimes do that type of repair, but its kinda a dying art.
 
Tools R Us said:
The tank is unique. Have replaced with used, and have patched, brazed on. Do you have a good local radiator shop, they sometimes do that type of repair, but its kinda a dying art.
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You can say that again but unfortunately my mechanic doesnt do that sort of thing now days its just replace everything, I could maybe remove clean and weld myself but who knows how long that'll hold up... And any recommendations on cheaper charcoal canisters as Im a Med student and can only afford ramen and gas (which now seems to be me chasing my tail haha)
 
If you weld on that tank please take the proper pre-cautionary measures and fill the tank with water to remove all combustible vapors. Fire and gas make your salty coconuts go boom.
 
Look around on here, I started a thread for people with fracked tanks to chime in. I have also patched my tanks. The only patch to hold up more than a couple months was the welded one. I tinned it, tinned and patched it, brazed it and finally welded it and found out nut how super thin the metal in the e-brake channel is.
 
Our do what I did and do what land cruiser Phil did cut oem canister and fill out check ball and plug new charcoal in less than 20.00 bucks to do the mod. It works as it should to capture vapors. My .02
 
duggy said:
If you weld on that tank please take the proper pre-cautionary measures and fill the tank with water to remove all combustible vapors. Fire and gas make your salty coconuts go boom.
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He will only do it once, and the pics might be Epic!
 
Gabriel 71 said:
Our do what I did and do what land cruiser Phil did cut oem canister and fill out check ball and plug new charcoal in less than 20.00 bucks to do the mod. It works as it should to capture vapors. My .02
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Hes talking about Reworking the Charcoal Canister (source of Pressure in Fuel System) so no more Sucky!

Charcoal Canister - Great Option!
 
DO both. Replace the Charcoal canister and replace the tank with a non-cracked or a repaired tank.

Go to the "Parting Out" section in the classiifeds and find someone local to you.

I drove on my cracked tank for over a year.

Don't fill it more than 3/4 full

Always park it nose-up (you can even pull the front wheels up on the curb)

Don't smoke while driving or around it at all.

Search out the thread referenced, as it gives a lot of detail and information about each of us and the work we have done.

When you replace the tank, purchase new hoses to replace all. Buy the filler neck hoses from Toyota, as the straight hose from local auto parts will kink.

I did mine in my driveway in about 4 hours of actual work. However, I painted my new tank with POR-15, and replaced all the gaskets on the new tank (fuel pump and inlet nozzle gaskets and all hoses, I also did my canister first to remove the pressurization.
 
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