FJ80 in KC

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Joined
Jul 6, 2019
Threads
2
Messages
33
Location
Missouri
Been on the mud forums for a while and a bit of a Toyota guy. Did this build on a Tundra the last several years. It is mainly an overlanding setup I built as a hunting rig. ARE shell, rack, Decked drawers, sliding platform, Iron Man lift on 35-in KO2s. It works like I need it to work.
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I’ve been looking for an FJ40 for a while and finally agreed to buy one a few weeks ago. We’re working through some title issues in the current owner’s state but I should have it in the next few weeks. So I’ve been thinking and prepping for a FJ40 project.

Then this week a 91 FJ80 popped up for sale in KC. Long story short, I bought it and brought it home today.
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Exterior is pretty clean of rust and I loved the two-tone brown and tan scheme. It has an Iron Man lift and running 35s. A major downer is the clear coat is in bad shape on the hood, roof and everywhere else. But I’d rather deal with that than rust. And I’ll be looking for OEM steel-look wheels (maybe bronze) and KO2s soon.

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The interior is one of the things that sold me on this rig. I don’t like pics of all the torn leather we usually see on a 30-year old truck. These fabric seats are cool! The PO even had the front seats recently redone by a local shop and they did a great job matching the rear seats.

This FJ isn’t perfect and I knew that going in. Several minor interior trim pieces missing or damaged. The brown interior will likely be harder to find parts for. But so far, the major areas to fix are this.

1. I have to figure out why the tach isn’t reading. Zero movement. Not sure where to start here because I have no electrical experience. But I’ll figure it out.

2. The drivers side rear window is 1-2 inches from closing. Tried the driver controls and the door controls and it won’t move or make a sound. Bad motor maybe?

I’m making a list and prioritizing the other fixes that will be required but I also just want to have fun in this truck. Looking forward to the journey.
 
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Ha you have vehicle purchasing problems like me. Man i have some great leather seats. Let's trade!
 
Been on the mud forums for a while and a Toyota guy. Did this build on a Tundra the last several years. It is mainly an overlanding setup I built as a hunting rig. ARE shell, rack, Decked drawers, sliding platform, Iron Man lift on 35-in KO2s. It works like I need it to work.
View attachment 2764992
I’ve been looking for an FJ40 for a while and finally agreed to buy one a few weeks ago. We’re working through some title issues in the current owners state but I should have it in the next few weeks. So I’ve been thinking and prepping for a FJ40 project.

Then this week a 91 FJ80 popped up for sale in KC. Long story short, I bought it and brought it home today. View attachment 2764993Exterior is pretty clean of rust and I loved the two-tone brown and tan scheme. It has an Iron Man lift and running 35s. A major downer is the clear coat is in bad shape on the hood, roof and everywhere else. But I’d rather deal with that than rust. And I’ll be looking for OEM steel-look wheels (maybe bronze) and KO2s soon.

View attachment 2764996View attachment 2764997The interior is one of the things that sold me on this rig. I don’t like pics of all the torn leather we usually see on a 30-year old truck. These fabric seats are cool! The PO even had the front seats recently redone by a local shop and they did a great job matching the rear seats.

This FJ isn’t perfect and I knew that going in. Several minor interior trim pieces missing or damaged. The brown interior will likely be harder to find parts roe. But so far, the major areas are this.

1. I have to figure out why the tach isn’t reading. Zero movement. Not sure where to start here because I have no electrical experience. But I’ll figure it out.

2. The drivers side rear window is 1-2 inches from closing. Tried the driver controls and the door controls and it won’t move or make a sound. Bad motor maybe?

I’m making a list and prioritizing the other fixes that will be required but I also just want to have fun in this truck. Looking forward to the journey.
I like your two-tone color. Could you take more pics of your rig when you get a chance?
 
Yes I am. Joined a few weeks ago when I bought the 40 and attended the meet up last month. Planning to be at the one in Lee’s Summit in a week or two.
Awesome!! Great group of guys that know toooo much about cruisers. Ive only had the pleasure of meeting them a handful of times prior moving to North Carolina (Military). Get in tight with them and they'll take care of you.
 
Awesome!! Great group of guys that know toooo much about cruisers. Ive only had the pleasure of meeting them a handful of times prior moving to North Carolina (Military). Get in tight with them and they'll take care of you.
I work with a guy who is a TA member and has an 80 as well. He’s tapped me into some local resources to help. I’m a bit nervous about some of the electrical and drivetrain issues but I’ve learned just to ask a lot of questions (and then buy beer) and watch a lot of YouTube instructional videos. It’s how I built my barn with virtually no construction knowledge.
 
Nice ride! Is your DS rear window not moving at all?
No. Hangs down about 1.5 inches. I can push it up and it just slips right back down. No noise or motion when I hit the up/down button. There is a bit of a “clunk” when I shut the door.

I’m thinking the windows may be off the track? First step would likely be to get the window closed to keep rain out. Then I’ll worry about repairing/replacing the motor.
 
No. Hangs down about 1.5 inches. I can push it up and it just slips right back down. No noise or motion when I hit the up/down button. There is a bit of a “clunk” when I shut the door.

I’m thinking the windows may be off the track? First step would likely be to get the window closed to keep rain out. Then I’ll worry about repairing/replacing the motor.
Yeah. Typical. The window seats into a frame that typically falls off the roller. There’s a lot of info on it here: Rear window falling off track - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/rear-window-falling-off-track.442151/

 
I like your two-tone color. Could you take more pics of your rig when you get a chance?
Some additional pics from this morning. Like I said, I’m sure it’s a factory color scheme, but one I can’t say I’ve seen before. I like the tan and dark brown, especially with the interior. Just a unique looking rig.
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That is a OEM color scheme for that model year. 91-92 also came in a two-tone gray metallic as well.
 
I have a 92 in the same color. Been slowly converting to what I want.
 
Yeah. Typical. The window seats into a frame that typically falls off the roller. There’s a lot of info on it here: Rear window falling off track - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/rear-window-falling-off-track.442151/

Slightly more complicated issue than I expected, but should have assumed, given the original clues. Took the door apart today expecting to try the 2x4 method and here us what I found.

1. The frame that goes on the bottom of the window was laying on the bottom interior of the door. That’s what made the “clunk” whenever the door shut. I looked at the frame and didn’t see how to attach it to the up/down piece that raises/lowers the window. The filler was completely shot -I’ll order a new set of those. I’m assuming I’ll need to pull the window out of the door to reattach the metal frame and filler, but again, will need to figure this out first. Guessing the exterior trim will pop out but always iffy with 30 year old clips holding it all together.

2. The motor appears to be wired and plugged in correctly, but nothing happens when I hit the driver or DS rear door window switch. Potential bad motor I guess, but not sure how to diagnose that. Weird thing is I tested each window during my pre-purchase inspection and I heard the motor move the window behind my head (was test driving it at the time). But now the motor will not engage. Weird. My guess is one of the POs didn’t know how or take the time to fix it and just braced it somehow.

I ran out of time today to work on it so I just left it apart in the garage. I’ll have to give it another shot this week.
 
Slightly more complicated issue than I expected, but should have assumed, given the original clues. Took the door apart today expecting to try the 2x4 method and here us what I found.

1. The frame that goes on the bottom of the window was laying on the bottom interior of the door. That’s what made the “clunk” whenever the door shut. I looked at the frame and didn’t see how to attach it to the up/down piece that raises/lowers the window. The filler was completely shot -I’ll order a new set of those. I’m assuming I’ll need to pull the window out of the door to reattach the metal frame and filler, but again, will need to figure this out first. Guessing the exterior trim will pop out but always iffy with 30 year old clips holding it all together.

2. The motor appears to be wired and plugged in correctly, but nothing happens when I hit the driver or DS rear door window switch. Potential bad motor I guess, but not sure how to diagnose that. Weird thing is I tested each window during my pre-purchase inspection and I heard the motor move the window behind my head (was test driving it at the time). But now the motor will not engage. Weird. My guess is one of the POs didn’t know how or take the time to fix it and just braced it somehow.

I ran out of time today to work on it so I just left it apart in the garage. I’ll have to give it another shot this week.
Same exact thing happened when I bought my cruiser. Except it was rear passenger side. My window switch was inop and the window was stuck 2” away from reaching the top.
When I inspected, I found the switch was inop and had to be replaced. The frame that the window seats into was on the bottom of the door.
I ended up getting new window filler (OEM was out of stock) and simply used a lot of force to seat the window back into the track. My buddy helped push it up from bottom as I pushed Dow from the top. Seems to be holding up fine for now.

I dealt with the window falling off track for a while until I relented and got new filler. You can access what you need without removing the glass as long as you roll the window down. Need to fix that first I suppose.
 
Really like the two tone and the seats look great.
 
Same exact thing happened when I bought my cruiser. Except it was rear passenger side. My window switch was inop and the window was stuck 2” away from reaching the top.
When I inspected, I found the switch was inop and had to be replaced. The frame that the window seats into was on the bottom of the door.
I ended up getting new window filler (OEM was out of stock) and simply used a lot of force to seat the window back into the track. My buddy helped push it up from bottom as I pushed Dow from the top. Seems to be holding up fine for now.

I dealt with the window falling off track for a while until I relented and got new filler. You can access what you need without removing the glass as long as you roll the window down. Need to fix that first I suppose.
So if your door switch was inoperable, the driver switch still worked, correct? Since neither of mine work I’m thinking it’s the motor and not the switch. Does that sound right?
 
So if your door switch was inoperable, the driver switch still worked, correct? Since neither of mine work I’m thinking it’s the motor and not the switch. Does that sound right?
Sounds right. Iirc, my master panel worked but my individual window didn’t.
Can you ohm it out or swap the motor from front to back? Your motor is probably gummed up from the past 3 decades of life so it could be worth trying to take it apart to clean it.
 

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