Rear Door Window Regulator Misaligned? (1 Viewer)

[bicycleagent003]

I'm looking for some help with this rear door, driver's side window. The motor is working fine. The problem is that the little green plastic wheel (on the end of the arm attached to the motor) lifts and lowers the glass seems to be misaligned. The arm that the green plastic wheel sits on wants to pop inward, toward the center line of the vehicle, so that it's not riding below that horizontal metal bar which sits below the glass. When that arm with the green plastic wheel comes inward, the glass wants to just drop down to the lowest position because there is then no mechanical connection between the motor and the glass.

Any proposed fixes to this problem? It happened suddenly, no signs of the window not working correctly before it happened.

Thanks, all suggestions are appreciated.

 

[surfpig]

Your window has shifted in its channel. There’s a way to move it back to its proper position so the plastic wheel remains in it’s groove. Mine was that way but not quite that bad. I was able to get the wheel back into its channel then I pinched the channel closed slightly so it couldn’t pop out anymore.

 

[surfpig]

Here’s a pretty good thread on the subject.

Rear window falling off track

My son opened the rear passenger window the other day and it got stuck about half way down. I took over the controls to try and see if I could finagle it either up or down to get it to work. I was able to get it to come down a bit more then it fell. When we got home, I took the door apart and...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[effjay80]

Just used the 2x4 method detailed in post 23 of the referenced thread to align both my back windows in 94 that were off track.

 

[Kernal]

All above. Also, the window glass runs (rubber the glass moves in) may need to be replaced if they're original as the rubber gets hard and shrinks with age. That rubber run helps to keep the door glass in the correct orientation as it moves up and down.

The green wheels also wear and can get loose/wobbly with age, sometimes the long term fix is to replace the regulator, IME.

While you're in there add some grease to the wheels, rails, and regulator teeth.

 

[bicycleagent003]

Thanks for the tips, fellas. I'll report back with my results.

 

[FMC80]

Mine was the same way but my rubber filler gasket is old and ruined. When I got the cruiser it came with the window unseated out of the metal rail. Make sure yours doesn’t come out of that because it’s a huge PITA trying to get it to seat and stay seated.

 

[Malleus]

IME, it's the rubber seal against the glass that's the real problem child. It's very cheap and easy to replace. Follow the FSM procedure on reinstalling the glass in the track and you'll be OK. I was very leary of pounding on the glass with big rubber mallet, but it works and after having done it once, I'd do it again without thinking about it.

 

[bicycleagent003]

IME, it's the rubber seal against the glass that's the real problem child. It's very cheap and easy to replace. Follow the FSM procedure on reinstalling the glass in the track and you'll be OK. I was very leary of pounding on the glass with big rubber mallet, but it works and after having done it once, I'd do it again without thinking about it.

In the FSM, I'm looking at pages BO-14 - BO-17. I'm not seeing any other relevant pages. Is that right?

 

[Kernal]

The various parts/terms can sometimes be confusing:

The (glass channer) filler (sometimes printed as fillar) is a flat rubber sheet/cushion that fits between the bottom of the glass and the lift (glass) channel (left rear 69906-60011).

The lift (glass) channel mounts the glass to the regulator. If the glass pulls out of the lift channel then it would need to be reset with a new filler.

In the photos posted above the glass appears to be tight in the lift channel but to test it you can pull up on the glass while watching for movement in the lift channel.

The glass run is the rubber seal that the window slides up and down in
(left rear 68152-60011)

Clear as Mud?

HTH's

 

[bicycleagent003]

I got it fixed, thanks guys. I appreciate all your tips.

I didn't realize at first that the little green wheel is supposed to ride inside of that track, I thought it ran underneath it. Seems obvious now. I used the 2x4 and a prybar method cited above from that other thread to nudge the track rearward along the glass and it's all good now. I lubed everything up real well with spray white lithium grease and dry lube in the window runs on the sides of the glass. I don't use that window a lot, and I'm going to use it less now. Ha.

Thanks again for all the help. Your time is much appreciated, @Malleus, @Kernal, @effjay80 and @FMC80. Enjoy the rest of your weekend.

 

[Malleus]

In the FSM, I'm looking at pages BO-14 - BO-17. I'm not seeing any other relevant pages. Is that right?

I'm sorry I didn't get back to you in time to be of more help; I am in the middle of a tractor engine rebuild. The page you want(ed) is the last one, BO-21. I've attached the rear door FSM section for the benefit of anyone else who might need the help.

 

[bicycleagent003]

All is good here, and my repair is finished.

I happened to look at my FSM, to compare it to the pages @Malleus put up, and the pages seemed the same - except the last page. My FSM is for a 1996, and the page numbers are a bit different. Also, weirdly, the images in his FSM and mine show a different measurement for the glass rear edge to the metal and rubber retainer underneath it. Riddle me that - Why is that? Just curious if anyone knows why.

Not critical as I'm done and good, but a head scratcher nonetheless.

 

[Malleus]

That's a puzzler, since the parts for '95-'97 are the same, or so I thought (no, I didn't check them)

 

[Kernal]

When I did the driver's door glass there was a stain on the glass around the edge of the channel/filler so I used that stain to line up the new channel. Or just measure where the current channel is and put the new one at that same depth.

The instructions above left out the filler which goes in the channel first, wet the inside of the filler (they refer to it as a weatherstrip in the instructions) with soapy water then the channel is pounded down onto the glass with a hard rubber or plastic mallet. While standing I placed the glass on top of my feet (with shoes on), didn't want to chip the glass, and knocked the channel down starting at one end. Once you get it started the rest of the channel goes on easier.