fj80 and lx450 ps pump rebuild (2 Viewers)

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Do you have a vice at all?
Just use a couple blocks of wood to pinch it all.
I also recommend just hitting the nut with an air tool.
 
lky21 said:
Just about finished with the rebuild but I'm having trouble getting the 12 pt nut back to 54 ft-lbs. The rubber strap wrench from HF doesn't work well and my clamp slips. I don't have any woodworking tools to make Rifleman's jig, but I may have to figure out how to make it. Any thoughts on other approaches?View attachment 2221308
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I used two pieces of wood in my vice jaws.
 
are you guys who are NOT replacing the high pressure hose, replaced the washers where the high pressure hose connects to the pump? I assume this is a part that we can order if needed?
 
The washers harden after initial use, so replacement is always recommended if they are removed. Doesn't matter if you replace the hose or not. Not saying it's guaranteed to leak if you don't replace them, but it's cheap and easy, so... Yes, it's available from Toyota separately.

44327-30030 - you only need one of these. Look at the picture of it and you'll understand why you only need the one.

1582649637220.jpeg
 
I got my hands on a vise with wood blocks and clamped as hard as I could, but I still get slippage. I now think the reason it could be so tight is because I heated the gear up before reinstalling, and now it sits 0.1mm deeper than before. Should I pull the gear and reinstall? Or hit it with an impact wrench and be done with it?

Side questions: does the gear rotate in the same direction that would tighten the 12pt nut? Does the helical gear create axial force to push the gear toward the pump?
 
I finished rebuilding my pump and I can't get it to stop whining, even though the fluid is not foamy at all. It's working just fine, otherwise. I'll keep driving it to see if this can work itself out. I bled it using FSM's instructions: raise front end, with engine off, turn lock to lock few times, then do it again on the ground with engine running.

I asked the neighbor to send his son to my house so he can saw the wheel back and forth while I look for leaks. The PS gear box is wet but i don't to see any obvious leaks and I bet that's my issue currently.
 
gnob said:
once the rear snap rings comes out. remove the rear cover. the FSM recommends tapping on a table to get it to fall out. there is an o-ring on the cover so it wont fall off.

under the lid is a spring washer, note orientation.

under the spring is the rear plate. i had to tap on the desk to get the plate and rotor/vane assembly to fall out.
View attachment 502755View attachment 502756View attachment 502757
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I had a massive problem trying to extract the rear plate. The other owner did something wrong in the installation. So I used a different method. I extracted the axle with the bearing thru the front. Then went to a press and used a pin to expulse the rear plate. Hope this help!
 
alia176 said:
I finished rebuilding my pump and I can't get it to stop whining, even though the fluid is not foamy at all. It's working just fine, otherwise. I'll keep driving it to see if this can work itself out. I bled it using FSM's instructions: raise front end, with engine off, turn lock to lock few times, then do it again on the ground with engine running.

I asked the neighbor to send his son to my house so he can saw the wheel back and forth while I look for leaks. The PS gear box is wet but i don't to see any obvious leaks and I bet that's my issue currently.
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My last piece of the puzzle with the same noise is the gear box. The input seal (steering wheel shaft side) is worn and sucking in air. On the list to send to Redhead for an overhaul.
 
8707DA25-65F5-46E1-A24C-AEE2F3D390C3.jpeg
A6CC1D39-ED1A-48D7-B47E-D22B0B7DDAFF.jpeg

In the process of the rebuild. Last step is removing the front plate and then the oil seal. I picked up the Gates kit a while back and just noticed that one side of the Gates seal differs from the other. Anyone have knowledge of what direction the Gates seal gets installed?
 
The raised vee shaped lip of the seals I.D. is installed inward, towards the oil. See the photos below from the original Mud member who started this thread.

In his first photo it shows the end of his seal that is facing inward.
1615604227623.png
This photo shows how he used a socket to install the seal as a seal driver.
1615604310872.png

This photo shows his new seal installed in the pump housing. Notice that the open end of his seal is facing out.
1615604169498.png

So I'm thinking that you'll want to install your seal with the open end of your seal facing out like you're holding it in the photo below.
1615604470869.png
 
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The spring goes towards the fluid. Always.
This post ^^^ appears to be backwards. It looks to me like your first pic is correct install.
 
gnob said:
The spring goes towards the fluid. Always.
This post ^^^ appears to be backwards. It looks to me like your first pic is correct install.
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Cup faces the oil.
 
Next Question: In lieu of a slide hammer/bearing puller, any other successful methods for removing the front plate. Not to be a cheapy, but if I can avoid spending $70 at Harbor Freight for something I may never use again. I’ve tried knocking the pump on a wood block as someone in a previous post suggested. That method worked well for the rear plate, but no success for the front, as of yet. I’ve considered spraying some Triflo on it to see if it helps the perimeter O-ring slide more freely. Or perhaps a wooden dowel through the seal/shaft opening and lightly tap on the front plate?
 
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Thought I'd chime in with my PS pump experience as of late.

I re-sealed the oem unit with a new bearing but it was still seeping ATF and had a slight groan. The groan was prolly most noticeable by me and nobody else. So, I used my spare PS pump as a core for a NAPA refman unit and moved over the, unknown to me, sprocket to the NAPA unit. Holy cow that's a noisy SOB, the sprocket, not the pump. Even though the sprocket appeared not to have any imperfections or maybe I installed it too deep, I don't know what but the gear whine is horrible. :doh: It reminds me of the sprocket driven timing gearset out of a hot rod! Even my 15 yo daughter hates that sound.

Secondly, this NAPA pump also has an ATF seeping issue :bang:

Thirdly, you know that tiny O ring on the low pressure hose feed hose to the pump? Oh man, do NOT re-use that O ring. It looks chincy and awfully thin but it takes a shape right after you install it on a pump. So mine leaked from the get go with the NAPA unit, not the fault of the pump. As soon as I replaced it with a new NAPA O ring, it immediately stopped. Lessons learned but man, what a mess under my engine.
 
@alia176, are you saying the Napa pump leaked because of the o-ring, or was that another point of leakage?
 
WannaCruise said:
@alia176, are you saying the Napa pump leaked because of the o-ring, or was that another point of leakage?
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My only supposition at this juncture is that the large O ring that sits directly behind the large, circular backing plate is responsible for the leak. I don't think it's leaking from the nose seal but rather the ass gasket :hillbilly:
 
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