This is making me think i should just go with a new pump and pulley and call it a day 
fj80 and lx450 ps pump rebuild
- Thread starter gnob
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The rebuild isn't very hard...just need a vice, a socket to press with and a holder for the gear. First thing I did on my truck and the hardest part was finding a wrench to hold the dang banjo fitting...then the removal of said banjo fitting. 
The pump itself was about an hour on the bench. Make sure you get the right o-ring and single crush washer for the banjo bolt and you're good to go.
The pump itself was about an hour on the bench. Make sure you get the right o-ring and single crush washer for the banjo bolt and you're good to go.
That Banjo bolt on top of the PS pump has a catch so that you can tighten it with one hand and it'll jam itself. However, if you were to loosen it, that catch is worthless. It annoyed me so much that after I ruined a perfectly good high pressure hose during this removal process, I added another catch on the opposite side on the new high press hose. Hey, I had to go get another high press hose from NAPA anyway so why not!
Got mine put back together a while back and so far, knock on wood, all is good with the PS. Drives like a champ and steering is great. Now, having cleaned surrounding areas, I’ve noticed a small amount of PS fluid pooling around the power piston plunger nut on the gear box. I figure my next assignment is to rebuild the gear box.
My NAPA PS pump sure didn't like wheeling in this heat in UT last weekend. Some ATF puked out but overall the performance was ok. I only had couple of instances where slight notchy feeling in the steering wheel was felt while turning. The radiator was hitting 226deg so that engine bay was smoking and I'm sure that didn't help matters any. I do have the Witt's end PS cooling system and I recorded 190deg on the cooler using an IR temp gun.
- Thread starter
- #126
I don't remember if this has been mentioned, but the Amsoil tractor hydraulic is a popular swap. Especially in rigs with HA.
https://www.amsoil.com/p/synthetic-tractor-hydraulic-transmission-oil-sae-5w-30-ath/
https://www.amsoil.com/p/synthetic-tractor-hydraulic-transmission-oil-sae-5w-30-ath/
I’m having a difficult time getting this print in place.
it seems as if the Diameter of the oring is to big.
did anyone else have an issue installing this particular one?
it seems as if the Diameter of the oring is to big.
did anyone else have an issue installing this particular one?
Hello folks,
Thought I'd mention some things I ran into with my NAPA refurbished pump, even though it really wasn't the pump's fault. The NAPA pump still had some slight moaning but worse, it was STILL seeping. Exasperated, I ponied up for a brand new OEM pump and moved over the sprocket #2. I was using sprocket #1 I had laying around and installed it on the NAPA pump before it was put into service.
Problem #1
The NAPA pump with an unknown to me sprocket was LOUD. I don't know the ratio of this sprocket to the crankshaft but it's at least 2x crankshaft RPM so this pump was super loud anytime it ran. The person before me was not kind when they removed this sprocket from their pump and scarred the teeth on the sprocket, as seen below. So be EXTRA careful while separating the sprocket from the PS pump. This is NOT a fault of the NAPA pump.
Problem #2
The NAPA pump still seeped oil and made a mess. While laying under the 80 and looking up at the pump, the oil seems to come around the body then drip from the lowest part of the pump. I wasn't clearly able to discern the origination of this leak. I separated the pump inlet metal piping thing and replaced the tiny O ring with an OEM one, hoping that solved the problem. But, that didn't solve the problem so I swapped out the pump with an OEM one. After pulling the pump out, I realized the cause of the leak. See that gap on the inlet pipe in the third pic? That didn't allow that flange to do it's job and causing the O ring to not do its job. Even though that 12mm bolt was tight, the flange was bent so it never allowed itself to seat perfectly on the pump. Again, this is NOT a fault of the NAPA pump. If I'd taken that pipe out of the engine then studied it carefully, I could've easily flattened out that flange.
Lessons:
- be sure to be super kind with the removal of the PS pump sprocket.
- always install the inlet pipe on the pump on the bench so that you can see how everything is seated BEFORE installing the pump on the vehicle. This process isn't as easy while you're bent over the passenger fender or lying under the 80. New OEM pump came with this inlet pipe already attached to the pump and DON'T separate this!
- the hose from the PS reservoir can slip onto to the inlet pipe easily after the pump is installed on the engine.
Anyway, I was able to get my refund from NAPA after I showed them the receipt for the brand new pump from Toyota. Otherwise, they'd have exchanged the pump for another one. BTW, the NAPA pump had a lifetime warranty.
Thought I'd mention some things I ran into with my NAPA refurbished pump, even though it really wasn't the pump's fault. The NAPA pump still had some slight moaning but worse, it was STILL seeping. Exasperated, I ponied up for a brand new OEM pump and moved over the sprocket #2. I was using sprocket #1 I had laying around and installed it on the NAPA pump before it was put into service.
Problem #1
The NAPA pump with an unknown to me sprocket was LOUD. I don't know the ratio of this sprocket to the crankshaft but it's at least 2x crankshaft RPM so this pump was super loud anytime it ran. The person before me was not kind when they removed this sprocket from their pump and scarred the teeth on the sprocket, as seen below. So be EXTRA careful while separating the sprocket from the PS pump. This is NOT a fault of the NAPA pump.
Problem #2
The NAPA pump still seeped oil and made a mess. While laying under the 80 and looking up at the pump, the oil seems to come around the body then drip from the lowest part of the pump. I wasn't clearly able to discern the origination of this leak. I separated the pump inlet metal piping thing and replaced the tiny O ring with an OEM one, hoping that solved the problem. But, that didn't solve the problem so I swapped out the pump with an OEM one. After pulling the pump out, I realized the cause of the leak. See that gap on the inlet pipe in the third pic? That didn't allow that flange to do it's job and causing the O ring to not do its job. Even though that 12mm bolt was tight, the flange was bent so it never allowed itself to seat perfectly on the pump. Again, this is NOT a fault of the NAPA pump. If I'd taken that pipe out of the engine then studied it carefully, I could've easily flattened out that flange.
Lessons:
- be sure to be super kind with the removal of the PS pump sprocket.
- always install the inlet pipe on the pump on the bench so that you can see how everything is seated BEFORE installing the pump on the vehicle. This process isn't as easy while you're bent over the passenger fender or lying under the 80. New OEM pump came with this inlet pipe already attached to the pump and DON'T separate this!
- the hose from the PS reservoir can slip onto to the inlet pipe easily after the pump is installed on the engine.
Anyway, I was able to get my refund from NAPA after I showed them the receipt for the brand new pump from Toyota. Otherwise, they'd have exchanged the pump for another one. BTW, the NAPA pump had a lifetime warranty.
@alia176, did you originally purchase a rebuilt PS pump, or a new one from NAPA?
it was a reman unit from NAPA $164 + core
Just FYI, Using GNOB's pictures
There is a spring washer under the rear plate. You can compress the rear plate 2-3mm using a C-clamp. This allows easy access to remove the large snap ring. After removing the large snap ring holding the rear plate. You can use air pressure to release the rear plate. Cover the banjo port with your finger, then a quick shot of air into the fluid return opening will push the plate out. No need to bang the pump housing on the bench.
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After getting the gear off using a strap wrench and an 1/2" drive impact wrench, something tells me the factory manual suggested method for getting it back on isn't going to do it unless I am willing to damage the gear.
Witt's end products has just the right tool for holding on to this gear.
Do be overly cautious about marring up the teeth as it doesn't take much to make your PS pump whine like a mofo. Look at my post above #128 for the sprocket that I tried using, which ended up really loud and whiny.
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Do not forget the pump reservoir.
A gummed up or clogged reservoir will starve the pump and produce a whining sound.
My reservoir had sludge everywhere.
Also, I was told a long time ago to install a power steering filter when installing a new steering box.
So I will install this filter on the small hose (pump return line).
A gummed up or clogged reservoir will starve the pump and produce a whining sound.
My reservoir had sludge everywhere.
Also, I was told a long time ago to install a power steering filter when installing a new steering box.
So I will install this filter on the small hose (pump return line).
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- 112
Sorry for the confusion, I was writing too much at once. I did try the wood lined vise first with a breaker bar to get it off. All I did was carve nice round notches in the wood. I saw the earlier post on the strap wrench and impact wrench approach and gave that a try. It worked. My strap wrench is a home made seat belt and plastic lever job. Not going to be easy to hold it stable with one hand and torque wrench in the other. I thought it was a riot Toyota put the "soft lined jaw" vise approach in the FSM which I read afterward. I will check out the wits end product (Tanks Alia176) and will most likely replace the reservoir (Thanks bubfuji). I don't mind taking apart and rebuilding in general but I just don't have the time right now to rebuild the reservoir or pump. I'm also replacing the steering gear and hoses. It was a little shocking how brittle the stock pump feeder hose was at 271K... I will keep the old parts just in case though.
Still available, PN 4436060171 and it lists for $222
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When it comes to the removal of the sprocket gear, if you can use a pneumatic impact gun, that's ideal. Stick it in a vice with wood then just hit it once with the rattle gun and voila, it'll come right off. The torqueing process is a bit more challenging with wood and a vice but it's totally doable. Just have another set of hands to help with mounting the pump and two 2x4s into the vice. You really need to tighten that vice so that the teeth bite into the wood deeply before using the torque wrench.