fj80 and lx450 ps pump rebuild (1 Viewer)

Joined
Aug 2, 2006
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Jefferson
Hit the ring on one end or the other and make sure it moves and isnt rusted to the body.
Then the one or two pick method should work.
 

alia176

SILVER Star
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Aug 21, 2003
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Tijeras, NM
I got the all the O rings swapped out and then went to look for the bearing. I thought I bought it from Amazon a year ago and should be in the garage. Nope, it's not in the garage or anywhere else. My amazon order showed me a Nachi bearing so I kept looking for that box in the house. Finally I came to the conclusion that I didn't actually buy this bearing but bought other Nachi bearings that were used up in other projects. So, everything is covered up and waiting for the correct bearing to arrive from Amazon.
 
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Apr 20, 2008
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In the middle of a big lake
decided to do a little write up for the 1FZ-FE PS pump since i didnt see one in FAQ.

this follows the FSM but i try to add better detail and explanations. this particular pump came from a '96 LX450

first thing is to remove the pump from the car 1FZ power steering pump replacement...


next go to a bench and wipe down if necessary just to get extra crud off.

first thing is to check rotational preload. this tells you if you have a dragging bearing or vanes in the pump spec is 2.4 in-lbs or less. my pump was in spec.


second is to remove the suction port, uses a 12mm socket or wrench.


third is to remove the pulley, use a 12pt 17mm socket and my 3/8 impact.
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gnob, after pressing in the shaft and bearing I noticed that it did not spin as freely as it did it outside of the housing is this normal or did something go wrong?
 
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4,326
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Jefferson
Should still spin freely. Make sure bearing is square in bore. Make sure the bearing cover or outer race didnt get chinked on install
 
Joined
Nov 30, 2012
Messages
57
Location
Danvers, MA
have been playing around with this rebuild today. very nice write-up; couldn't have done this without it. pump had been seeping, then the whine began, then the groan.

i opted to attempt a pump rebuild, replace the hairpin high pressure line between the pump and box, and clean out the reservoir. i opted not to open up the reservoir and just washed it out forwards and backwards to remove as much sediment as possible from the screens. i did not replace either low pressure line to/from the reservoir, as they had no visible cracking or dry rotting and the clamps were toight

i used:
bfh
metal drift
adjustable wrench
small pry bar
c-clamp
12 mm socket with medium extension
14 mm socket and small extension
17 mm 12-point socket
3-jaw gear puller
pulley pliers and a rag (gripping the gear enough to break the 17 mm 12-point nut this way was a sombitch, lemme tellyahhhwat)
snap ring pliers (reversible)
picks (the crook-shaped one worked best for fishing the end of those tough snap rings out and working it along the circumference)

i purchased:
ps pump gasket kit (amazon, $40, came with the pump-to-body large o-ring, though i gather some do not. make sure you have one)
pump shaft bearing (amazon, $4, glad i did; the one that came out sounded pretty scrape-y)
high pressure line (rockauto, $40 rein brand, 17 mm nut at gear box still 17 mm like stock)
gallon of ps fluid (amazon, $16, some to keep on hand afterward)

filled a rubbermaid tub with a bit of plain dish soap and warm water. all parts that came off went straight into the bath and were washed off before rebuilding.

first off, there is no need to mess with anything else under the hood to get the pump out. i started futzing with the alternator thinking i would need to loosen the belt, took a look at the battery tray to see what kind of clearance i needed, bla bla, totally unnecessary, i'm a nooby.

the only lines i disconnected before removing the pump were the two at the reservoir and the one high pressure line at the steering box, as well as that line's mounting bracket inside the frame rail. this was done by using a 12 mm socket on a medium extension and removing the whole bracket plate (bolt goes right into the frame in the middle of the line's hairpin).

i found that a short extension on a normal 3/8" ratchet with a 14mm socket was plenty to break both the bottom nut from under the vehicle and the top nut from inside the engine compartment, albeit with the help of the ol' double-wrench breaker bar trick (closed end of a large crescent wrench around the end of the ratchet handle for extra torque).

once the nuts were removed, with only a light tap and a few wiggles, the pump backed off the mounting plate. with the high pressure hard line and the thicker (5/8") reservoir line still attached to the pump, i wiggled the whole thing right out of there. it took some convincing and twisting and patience, but it came out fine in the end.

removing the banjo bolt and the high pressure port from the pump was simple with the pump already removed. just hold the port with an adjustable wrench, loosen banjo, then pull the line and loosen the port. no problems there.

removing the gear was probably hilarious in third person. i found that wrapping a rag around the gear and clasping as tightly as i could with pulley pliers (or oil filter pliers) and breaking it with a bar/torque wrench actually worked without a bench vice somehow. i also found that swearing at it and threatening it with physical reprisal worked best. ymmv (probably use a bench vice).

after that, the gear puller worked fine in conjunction with a small pry bar. with the puller attached and torqued down, all it took was a little wiggle with the pry bar on the back of the gear face and the gear flew off quite forcibly.

after that, all the steps from this guide were exactly the same as the original post.

remember: the pump comes apart in steps. follow them in the right order every time or you'll get very mad for no reason when the plates don't come out of the pump body because they are being held there by the high pressure inlet you forgot to remove.

the inner-most plate has 2 o-rings on it. the largest of the three smaller o-rings goes inside the inner lip, and one of the three large matching o-rings goes around the outside of each of the three plates; front, back, and cover. if you overlook one of them like i did, you get to enjoy a second go around of tearing the pump down and rebuilding it. hooray.

i have yet to put the pump and reservoir and new hp line back in the truck and see how i did, but from the way it feels with the new bearing, gaskets, and etc, i don't foresee problems. i'll let you know how it comes together.

cheers and good luck with this one.
 
Joined
Jul 20, 2019
Messages
60
Location
Green Bay Wi
Thank you was able to rebuild mine with your instructions.

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93yotasr5

Molon Labe
Joined
Oct 15, 2010
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sacramento, ca
Did you have any issues with the “ticking” commonly associated with the gear not being installed far enough? I’m waiting on one more hose and I’ll be rebuilding my PS pump and replacing hoses.
 
Joined
Feb 4, 2015
Messages
2,529
Did you have any issues with the “ticking” commonly associated with the gear not being installed far enough? I’m waiting on one more hose and I’ll be rebuilding my PS pump and replacing hoses.
Just as an FYI, the bore of the power steering pump gear, and the pump shaft are both tapered. So there is no need to worry about installing the gear too far, or not far enough because the gear will only go on so far.

Just make sure when you put the gear back on the pump shaft that there are no nicks, or burs on the shaft, woodruff key, or the inside bore of the gear that might keep it from seating all the way down.

First step to installing the gear is to make sure that your woodruff key is seated all the way down in the shaft, then aline the woodruff key with the keyway in the gear, slide the gear on the shaft as far as it'll go by hand. Then while holding the gear from turning (using the appropriate tool*) torque the the 12 point nut to factory spec.

Oh one last thing, the main cause of that ticking noise your worried about comes from people damaging the teeth on their pump gear. By either holding it the wrong way (by not using an appropriate tool) while they were trying to remove, or tighten that 12 point nut.

*The photo below shows the cheap appropriate tool i make from a wood 2x6 to hold my pump gear when i rebuilt my pump.

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93yotasr5

Molon Labe
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Oct 15, 2010
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sacramento, ca
I copy that. I saw a couple different methods. One guy tapped it like 250 times and another just torqued it down and neither had a problem.

I’ll be tackling the job on my next weekend. I’m getting intermittent whining/grinding noises when cold. And I goes away for a bit after flushing new ATF but comes back shortly after. Hoping this solves the issue.

Thanks for the tip
 
Joined
Oct 16, 2004
Messages
711
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Stockton, NJ
Gents I'm having a heck of a time getting the front plate out so I can then remove the seal. I don't have a small slide hammer. I tried to use my vise and a socket to remove the two together but I'm starting to deform the seal on the front side. Any one not use a slide hammer to remove that plate? @gnob
 
Joined
Aug 2, 2006
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4,326
Location
Jefferson
Possibly try dropping it onto a block or something to get it to drop out.
Otherwise i think you could fish it out from the front using the biggest socket that'll fit from rhe front, and sone finesse. Its just hanging on the o-ring
 
Last edited:
Joined
Apr 9, 2017
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tejas
Since we all worry about doing damage to the pump gear, Here's a very simple tool i made to hold that gear. It's made from a wood 2X6, the one end you can clamp in your bench vice and the other end clamps the gear. I used a hole saw to make the large hole, then i used a sand paper flapper wheel to bring the hole to just under the O.D.size of the gear. Next i cross drilled it for 2, 1/2 inch bolts to clamp the gear, then i finished it off by cutting it apart on a band saw. While clamped in this block my gear never once moved while removing, or installing that nut. Here's the best part,it only cost a few bucks to make, and you can loan it to your Toyota friends when they need to rebuild their pump.

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that’s pretty awesome. i’m wondering if an old man showed you that at some point...
 

93yotasr5

Molon Labe
Joined
Oct 15, 2010
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sacramento, ca
Just did the full rebuild and hose replacement today. Honestly the hardest part was getting the snap ring on the back cover at the end. Messy job but gave me the opportunity the clean up the engine bay. I’m getting a little whine, but I think I need to bleed the system again. Pretty strait forward install. Thanks OP for the instructions!
 

bonestock

Transportation Specialist
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Feb 26, 2015
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Lookout Mountain, GA
Just did this today with your instructions and the @NLXTACY rebuild kit. It took me about 30 minutes including having to take it back apart and put the small o-ring on the inside of the front plate.
 
Joined
Jul 21, 2017
Messages
17
Location
Palo Alto, CA
Just about finished with the rebuild but I'm having trouble getting the 12 pt nut back to 54 ft-lbs. The rubber strap wrench from HF doesn't work well and my clamp slips. I don't have any woodworking tools to make Rifleman's jig, but I may have to figure out how to make it. Any thoughts on other approaches?
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