FJ80 3fe new guy with issues (1 Viewer)

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OgDiesel said:
It takes a little modification to get it to fit. Canceling out the line that connects to the bottom of the OEM CC is the easier part. Second you will need a long skinny bolt, washers, and a Nut. The VC120 is slightly larger around than the OEM CC. Using the longer skinner nut and bolt works and looks factory when done. I did kinda of a ghetto job canceling out the bottom vent line, I just used a bolt that fit snug, shoved it into the old line and put a hose clam on it.
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not sure what the long skinny nut/bolt/washer is for? I just removed my old one and there are 2 clamps, thats it. sorry I actually do not have the VC120 yet, does it go on there?

anyway the Haynes manual said to push air through all the ports and sure enough the outlet "to tank" has a decent amount of resistance, the bottom and the purge flow freely. I will push air through the VC120 before I install it. If it is the same amount of resistance, I will not replace the old one. I am assuming there needs to be a good amount of pressure/resistance anyway to push the gases through the charcoal. not sure if its bad...
 
The long skinny bolt is to replace the shorter one on the existing clamps, I guess I should of said two long skinny bolts. I canceled out the lower cuz I am lazy. When I blew on the inlet side I could smell the vapors, also when I blew hard it just came out the bottom vent line rather then the return line on the topside. If you have pressure when you remove your gas cap it's bad for sure. Considering my idle was all over the place prior to replacing it, I figured it was the IAC. When I read the thing about the pressure in the tank i figured it was worth a shot. The IAC is a 450 dollar part if you can find one. The VC120 is like 55 bucks, in my case it did the trick.
 
ward93 said:
How are they capped doesn't that cause problems. Lambcrusher says they are needed
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Me? Or the guy who canceled the entire charcoal cansister? If me the bottom vent line.. doesn't matter, with the OEM design the CC vents back to the tank, the VC120 auto zone special vents into air.
 
I deleted my cc and it seams fine. Engine much happier though may try vc 120 as some mudders are scolding me that there is no reason to delete it so it's better to have it
 
9.5 MPG??? Welcome to the 3FE world! In fuel consumption, they are pigs, but in durability they are great!



jigglebear said:
I bought my 80 about a month ago for 6500. I took it out for a drive know there were issues with it but being that it was in decent condition and it had the "bullet proof" 3FE I decided to pull the trigger. On the way home I noticed on hills that it would down shift and fall flat on its face. Complete loss of power and speed and rpms would slowly fall until I released the accelerator and let it up shift and slowly depressed it again then I would slowly gain speed. It made my 2 hour drive in stop and go traffic very frustrating to me. So I did what any smart gear head would do and went to the forums to read and learn from the pros. After hours of researching and reading I thought I had a solid idea. I just moved to Dixon California so I'm currently limited on funds until I get my money back from my move. So after testing everything I can think of and adjusting everything accord to the FSM I have gained a bit of power back on the top end and it runs smoother but when I stuff in to the floor it takes forever to gain speed and it feels as if there isn't enough power to get it to shift to the next gear. This is the work I have done and things I have found in the follow order.
1. Replaces cats
2. Inspected and replaced anything that was "tuned up"
3. Tested and tuned the TPS
4. Tested and cleaned the ISC
5. Removed and Cleaned the entire EGR system. with a possible pin hole in the egr valve its self but im not sure nor can I find a used one in my area.
6. Replaced the EGR modulator
7. Corrected and replaced vacuum line routing plumbing to include the valve cover and intake tubes along with the tube that runs from the ISC to the intake.
8. Adjusted valves according to FSM
9. Replaced valve cover gasket
10. Replaced PCV and Grommet
11. New 02 sensors
12. Checked spark plugs (which were brown) and verified the gaps
13. Timed it to 7 degrees of advancement
14. Changed oil and checked the coolant.
15. Changed fuel pump
16. Changed Fuel filter
17. Changed the fuel pressure regulator
18. Checked the vacuum pressure and I'm getting 18 psi at idle and wide open after it stabilizes.
19. My fuel pressure is right around 38 to 39 psi and holds steady.

My next steps are to adjust the transmission cable running to the throttle body and replace the thermostat due to it taking longer than what I deem normal to heat up. I still have a high idle with the timing set to FSM and the idle screw all the way in. I have built a few other rigs to include my FJ cruiser so I feel someone confident in diagnosing an issues on a vehicle until I bought this turd. The only other thing I can thing of is a slight exhaust leak and every time I go to fill up the pig I hear a lot of pressure coming from the gas tank. It runs smooth but something is still wrong and I cant find the underlying issue. Im not 100% if my terrible mileage of 9.5 MPG is an indicator of anything. I just figured that was normal for a gutless engine with a tank built around it. Its also sitting on 285 70 17 10 ply mtrs with a slee rear swing out and ruff stuff front bump I believe with tools/ recovery gear and an on board air system I have recently installed. Any ideas or leads would be amazing! Thank you ahead of time guys and I cant wait to hear back from you!
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Haha that's funny. Durability.... I actually just blew a head gasket and a radiator. Apparently I was over heating and don't catch it right away. Come to find out when you hit red it's already to late. I'm gonna chalk this one up to the PO not every maintaining this thing... haven't removed the head yet to inspect anything because I haven't had time due to work. My plan is if the head is good I'm going to shave the head and up the compression to 9.5.1. Then just run 91 octane. Probably have the head completely rebuild and maybe put some oversized valves in it. Anyone have any suggestions for valves and what part numbers to Use? Want to get this baby to flow right and while I'm in there I'm gonna send the injectors off for cleaning. I'm right under 200k.
 
It's a cast iron engine so your head is probably fine but def do a rebuild if u have to replace the head gasket any way. And I'd replace every single cooling hose, maybe invest in one of those performance aluminum radiators
 
I planned on doing a water pump. I replaced my thermostat before the overheat. Suggest I replace it again? Where do I get the hoses at? I haven't had any luck on finding them yet. My oil pressure gauge stopped working. I replaced the gauge in the cluster but still no luck. I think I'm going to just replace the sending unit. Thinking about putting in a coolant temp gauge and oil pressure gauge from glowshift because I'm not going through this garbage again. I'm going to remove the oil plug and drill and tap it too for a plug. If this happens again then I'm going to burn it to the ground. I love working on old vehicles but I have had nothing but issues with it since I bought it.
 
Can you still source these timing gears? If so where can I find them. I'm also in the middle of a rebuild. I was also trying to figure out if the 2f rv cam is compatible with the 3fe. Looking to make more power so I'm boring it and upping the compression while I'm in there. Thanks ahead of time!
 
jigglebear said:
Can you still source these timing gears? If so where can I find them. I'm also in the middle of a rebuild. I was also trying to figure out if the 2f rv cam is compatible with the 3fe. Looking to make more power so I'm boring it and upping the compression while I'm in there. Thanks ahead of time!
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Maybe? It's listed differently, maybe not? It seems like for the price you could get one custom ground to your preference. Man-A-Fre RV Cam Kit - Man-A-Fre

Timing gear- Camshaft Timing Gear 88-92 3F 3FE [13523-61010] - $110.03 : CruiserParts.net, Toyota Landcruiser Parts
 
I have some scoring on the wall on number 5 and I'm so tore on whether just to rebuild my head and slap it together until I can get a donor engine to rebuild then swap out. I already found a running long block for 850. Then I can rebuild that and get it perfect until then just run my original motor. Just never out a engine together that had scoring.
 
I have had a few engines apart in my day but to be honest I have never dealt with scoring so I'm not sure. From the research I have done and read about others it's not that bad. It was running good before I realized the head gasket was gone. So I'm assuming it can't be that bad. I can't really feel it with my finger nail so by bad I suppose hahaha
 
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