FJ80 3fe new guy with issues (1 Viewer)

[jigglebear]

I bought my 80 about a month ago for 6500. I took it out for a drive know there were issues with it but being that it was in decent condition and it had the "bullet proof" 3FE I decided to pull the trigger. On the way home I noticed on hills that it would down shift and fall flat on its face. Complete loss of power and speed and rpms would slowly fall until I released the accelerator and let it up shift and slowly depressed it again then I would slowly gain speed. It made my 2 hour drive in stop and go traffic very frustrating to me. So I did what any smart gear head would do and went to the forums to read and learn from the pros. After hours of researching and reading I thought I had a solid idea. I just moved to Dixon California so I'm currently limited on funds until I get my money back from my move. So after testing everything I can think of and adjusting everything accord to the FSM I have gained a bit of power back on the top end and it runs smoother but when I stuff in to the floor it takes forever to gain speed and it feels as if there isn't enough power to get it to shift to the next gear. This is the work I have done and things I have found in the follow order.
1. Replaces cats
2. Inspected and replaced anything that was "tuned up"
3. Tested and tuned the TPS
4. Tested and cleaned the ISC
5. Removed and Cleaned the entire EGR system. with a possible pin hole in the egr valve its self but im not sure nor can I find a used one in my area.
6. Replaced the EGR modulator
7. Corrected and replaced vacuum line routing plumbing to include the valve cover and intake tubes along with the tube that runs from the ISC to the intake.
8. Adjusted valves according to FSM
9. Replaced valve cover gasket
10. Replaced PCV and Grommet
11. New 02 sensors
12. Checked spark plugs (which were brown) and verified the gaps
13. Timed it to 7 degrees of advancement
14. Changed oil and checked the coolant.
15. Changed fuel pump
16. Changed Fuel filter
17. Changed the fuel pressure regulator
18. Checked the vacuum pressure and I'm getting 18 psi at idle and wide open after it stabilizes.
19. My fuel pressure is right around 38 to 39 psi and holds steady.

My next steps are to adjust the transmission cable running to the throttle body and replace the thermostat due to it taking longer than what I deem normal to heat up. I still have a high idle with the timing set to FSM and the idle screw all the way in. I have built a few other rigs to include my FJ cruiser so I feel someone confident in diagnosing an issues on a vehicle until I bought this turd. The only other thing I can thing of is a slight exhaust leak and every time I go to fill up the pig I hear a lot of pressure coming from the gas tank. It runs smooth but something is still wrong and I cant find the underlying issue. Im not 100% if my terrible mileage of 9.5 MPG is an indicator of anything. I just figured that was normal for a gutless engine with a tank built around it. Its also sitting on 285 70 17 10 ply mtrs with a slee rear swing out and ruff stuff front bump I believe with tools/ recovery gear and an on board air system I have recently installed. Any ideas or leads would be amazing! Thank you ahead of time guys and I cant wait to hear back from you!

 

[JDMark]

Have you done a compression test on the motor? I'd definitely be interested in seeing how the transmission cable adjustment effects your issue.
Also, is the 9.5mpg figure compensating for your tire size? That's pretty low.

 

[jigglebear]

I haven't checked my compression. I have about 197k and the compression never really concerned me due to the 3FE reputation. but I may check it in the near future. I plan on doing the cable adjustment due to some strange shifting issues im having. It flares under light load between first and second occasionally and it seems to skip a gear when it upshifts. I doubt that's part of my power issue but none the less its one of my other 17 thousand issues.... do I dare advance the timing? and if I do how exactly do I tell how much im advancing it on the fly wheel? Is it a degree a tooth after the double intentations that represent the 7 BTDC?

 

[73tlcv8]

I can't help with your loss of power issue but the high idle can likely be cured by setting up the throttle body and TPS with the feeler gauges per the FSM. I assume it isn't throwing any codes?

 

[jigglebear]

I adjusted it when I pulled the throttle body to clean it. Its right on the money per FSM spec. I get a code for the egr but that's it. After I clear the code it takes about 100 miles for it to come back. not sure where that's coming from. Before I adjusted the TPS it was pulling a code and bucking pretty bad. If the TPS is with in spec per FSM is there a possibility I can adjust it to gain power back or advance timing? I have read a lot about the timing being to retarded for the quality of fuel here. A lot of guys running it up to 12 degrees advanced? Im still not 100% how to read the fly wheel to know how advanced I'm going.

 

[Pitch]

Definitely check the transmission kick down cable. It is an easy, 5' adjustment.

Adjusting for the tire size mechanically (like replacing the stock 33 tooth speed gear with a 31 tooth) will help the transmission shift points substantially.

Clean the throttle body with a fair amount of TB/ carb cleaner.

Fuel filter sock/ pre filter in the gas tank.

Drive it like a stick shift and downshift manually on hills.

The pressure in the tank is most likely a failed charcoal canister, part of the emission system. Many have used the AutoZone VC120, which corresponds to an early to mid 90's Pontiac Grand Prix V6 IIRC.

Good luck. I have done all of this to my 3Fe as well. A solid, albeit a very underpowered motor.

 

[jigglebear]

Definitely check the transmission kick down cable. It is an easy, 5' adjustment.

Adjusting for the tire size mechanically (like replacing the stock 33 tooth speed gear with a 31 tooth) will help the transmission shift points substantially.

Clean the throttle body with a fair amount of TB/ carb cleaner.

Fuel filter sock/ pre filter in the gas tank.

Drive it like a stick shift and downshift manually on hills.

The pressure in the tank is most likely a failed charcoal canister, part of the emission system. Many have used the AutoZone VC120, which corresponds to an early to mid 90's Pontiac Grand Prix V6 IIRC.

Good luck. I have done all of this to my 3Fe as well. A solid, albeit a very underpowered motor.

I cleaned the throttle body and it's spotless. Where do I get the gear at for the speedo? And why down shift it like a manual? Isn't that detrimental to the trans? As far as the sock it should be clean because the pump was changed right before I bought it. Worth checking again?

 

[goranvolvo]

how did you adjust timing when you have high idle ?
you need to check idle air control valve ,pinch slowly air feed line to the valve and se if it idles down it is possible that the valve is opening to far and letting to much air into intake manifold

 

[Alleycats]

Ounce you get up to speed on the freeway can you maintain 65-70 mph?

Does the torque converter lockup at around 50 mph? (it should)

What is your MPG?

These are some good baseline points.

 

[jigglebear]

With the terminals crossed I can get the idle perfect. But as soon as I remove them the idle jumps again. My mpg is 9.5. And yes I can maintain speed but it literally takes me over a minute to hit 70mph. If I see a hill I down shift. It's on the verge of power loss at 70. If there is a head wind I'm screwed.

 

[jigglebear]

And I believe any other info you are looking for it should be in my original start to my post.

 

[jigglebear]

how did you adjust timing when you have high idle ?
you need to check idle air control valve ,pinch slowly air feed line to the valve and se if it idles down it is possible that the valve is opening to far and letting to much air into intake manifold

 

[jigglebear]

sorry I don't know why but my computer posted a quote. anyways I have some updates. I adjusted my throttle linkage to my trans and got everything thing buttoned up on my exhaust. I took it into the mountains and let it eat a bit. ran up the rpms and down shifted coming back down. it seems to be running much better. my CEL hasn't come back yet and hopefully stays that way too. I still feel like im missing a bit of power but then again I have never driven a healthy 3FE so it could always be this slow. I still get passed on back roads every day when I leave stop signs. im not sure what everyone hurry is... or im just that slow hahaha. anyways im going to take it to get emissions tested sometime soon and we will see how it goes. thanks for the help!

 

[tacoma2002]

I have a healthy one (as healthy as it gets for 190k) and its slow. They're weak out of the box. 9.5 is about right for hill country...they love gasoline.


35's and stock gears here.

 

[jigglebear]

I plan on swapping to 35s eventually and either running 4.56 or 4.88s. haven't decided yet. any suggestions for gear ratios? I plan on "overlanding" slash wheeling hard when the occasion arises. maybe using it to tow and expedition trailer long distance eventually.

 

[SUMMIT CRUISERS Jr]

With the 3FE and 35s, you'll want 4.88s. The 4.56 gears wouldn't really be worth the money and effort maybe they would be worth it if you never planned to run larger than a 33". Before I put on my 35s, I got the 4.88s and drove it for a month or two on 33s. With 33s and 4.88s, it would rarely downshift on the highway and it had a lot more responsiveness at higher speeds, but the RPMs were also a tad higher than I would have liked at 75-80. Since going to 35s it is now basically how it was with stock gears and 33s more or less. Maybe marginally better, but it's not a 75-80mph cruiser on the highway.

 

[jigglebear]

That's great news. I usually don't go much more than 70. I didn't think 35so would warrant for 4.88s but then again I don't even know what size factory was. Does the 91 land cruiser have a 4 speed or 5 speed trans?

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

That's great news. I usually don't go much more than 70. I didn't think 35so would warrant for 4.88s but then again I don't even know what size factory was. Does the 91 land cruiser have a 4 speed or 5 speed trans?

The reason you're getting passed like you're driving backwards is because you're the a-hole who only drives 70...it's California...if you're driving that slow in a school zone someone is bound to pass you. If it were up to me I'd round up all the Californians living in my state and send them back; with the way they drive like they'll die if the speedo drops below 75, and don't bother looking behind them before backing up...no worries just back up until it it sounds expensive that's the Way it's done back home.

 

[zoojp]

It sounds like the kick down adjustment was the culprit.

I had a different car with EGR issues. I had to clean it three times before it finally stopped throwing codes. I guess the carbon that I didn't fully clean out got stuck in the EGR valve.

 

[Marine7]

Don't waste your money on 35's unless your made of it. They don't help you, and if your planning on "over landing" you will never be able to pass a gas station, assuming you have the range to GET TO the next station! If I were to do it again, I would of stayed on 265/75/16's..... better power out of the iron pig, and I went everywhere that I can go now. (On 35's)
Put a Aussie in the rear, add an auxiliary tank, and hit the trails! Enjoy!