I am a first time (6 days and counting) owner of a 1988 FJ62. I have the power lock problems many others seem to experience, to include no action anywhere but the drivers door. Having said that, I have a more immediate problem: i cannot lock the upper rear hatch. I cannot lock it with the power locks, the key will not turn in the lock (it only came with the ignition key - missing key?), and the lock nob on the inside does not depress. The key actually does not go in easily and when I push, it just releases the upper hatch. Please tell me i'm just doing something stupid.
FJ62 Rear Hatch Lock...should it turn?
- Thread starter TF88FJ62
- Start date
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Does the key you got with it work in any other doors? The "lock knob on the inside" is actually to open the hatch from the inside, you lift it up.
- Thread starter
- #3
The key works perfectly on both driver and passenger doors. Ha! Solves the question about the knob on the inside. Thanks!
I couldn't open my rear hatch from the outside when I first got my 62. Had to crawl to the back and lift up the interior knob to release it. If you're still having problems, remove the access panels on the inside of the hatch. My issue was that one of the linkage rods became disconnected. I just reattached and problem solved. Easy fix. Good luck!
Welcome and hope you're enjoying ownership of your FJ62.
This forum is a great place to belong and get the knowledge and advice from other 60 series owners. There are no
stupid questions when you're unsure about an issue.
I would suggest using some penetrating liquid (WD40, etc ..) into the lock cylinder incase it needed some lubrication.
Might be a good idea to lube all the locks anyway. The master locking door/window control on the drivers door also
locks the rear hatch. If it only works for the drivers door as you mentioned, it could be the master control is bad.
The ignition key should also open the rear hatch.
As mentioned, remove the hatch access panel and check for possible damaged linkage and/or parts
This forum is a great place to belong and get the knowledge and advice from other 60 series owners. There are no
stupid questions when you're unsure about an issue.
I would suggest using some penetrating liquid (WD40, etc ..) into the lock cylinder incase it needed some lubrication.
Might be a good idea to lube all the locks anyway. The master locking door/window control on the drivers door also
locks the rear hatch. If it only works for the drivers door as you mentioned, it could be the master control is bad.
The ignition key should also open the rear hatch.
As mentioned, remove the hatch access panel and check for possible damaged linkage and/or parts
When you insert the key, do not push in and turn. just turn the key to the right(horizontal ) in the out position, remove key (optional) then push in on button
But it does sound like it may have a linkage off.
But it does sound like it may have a linkage off.
- Thread starter
- #7
first, thank you for teaching me how to open the gate! I took a little WD40 to all of the locks, everything is moving smoother. I also opened the access panel...you were right. the linkage seems to be missing. i opened all 3 access panels and couldn't find the missing piece. I've attached a picture just in case you guys see something I don't. What are my options, preferably without buying the entire assembly?
I may be wrong but the motor being disconnected(missing rod) should not effect the locking and unlocking with the key. It should work like the fj60 which did not have the electric locks. But......I have not looked at either our 60 or 62 latches in years to remember.
it does look like the large C clip that hold the cylinder in, is not pushed in all the way, EDIT.......never mind, its where its suppose to be(looked at mine)
can you lock it by messing the latch from the inside(guts) ?
does the motor do anything when you hit the power locks? (I would guess its disconnected from latch because the motor does not work)
or am I missing the fact that you can't drop the bottom of the rear gate?
it does look like the large C clip that hold the cylinder in, is not pushed in all the way, EDIT.......never mind, its where its suppose to be(looked at mine)
can you lock it by messing the latch from the inside(guts) ?
does the motor do anything when you hit the power locks? (I would guess its disconnected from latch because the motor does not work)
or am I missing the fact that you can't drop the bottom of the rear gate?
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Going back to your original problem statement, "can't lock the rear hatch", you should be able to manually lock it with your key. I'm going from memory but I believe it's just a matter of inserting the key and rotating 90 deg clockwise to the 3 o'clock position. Remove key and it should be locked (button will not depress).
The motor for the lock is a separate issue. As Landpimp said, see if you get movement on the motor with the lock button. If it works then sounds like you just need to connect it back to the lock mechanism. If it doesn't move, start troubleshooting between the motor back to the switch on the drivers door.
The FSM has a lot of useful assembly diagrams. You can also find diagrams on a number of websites.
The motor for the lock is a separate issue. As Landpimp said, see if you get movement on the motor with the lock button. If it works then sounds like you just need to connect it back to the lock mechanism. If it doesn't move, start troubleshooting between the motor back to the switch on the drivers door.
The FSM has a lot of useful assembly diagrams. You can also find diagrams on a number of websites.
this in a 60, so no power lock. Assuming a 62 can't be much different, these parts are the only ones that should matter(if the linkage is off to motor) (the wifes 62 is full of crap or I would look)
depending on if the motor pushes or pulles to unlock, you may be able to get it work one way with some zip ties.....but finding the linkage should be pretty easy
wire going to latch is if I recall for the rear dome light switch, nothing to do with locking or motor
this is with the interior pull handle up
just in case something else is missing, the pull knob must be up to release the bottom gate, then the handle is pulled. The lock on the upper gate has no effect on the lower gate(unless you can't open the top)
depending on if the motor pushes or pulles to unlock, you may be able to get it work one way with some zip ties.....but finding the linkage should be pretty easy
wire going to latch is if I recall for the rear dome light switch, nothing to do with locking or motor
this is with the interior pull handle up
just in case something else is missing, the pull knob must be up to release the bottom gate, then the handle is pulled. The lock on the upper gate has no effect on the lower gate(unless you can't open the top)
- Thread starter
- #11
Thanks for confirming that the C clip is where it needs. appreciate you taking a look at yours.
I can now lock the upper hatch by moving the lock in the inside and i can drop the lower gate with no problems. Immediate problem of securing the truck is solved. now I have to solve the root problem...and I am guess you are right that someone took off the rod because the motor doesn't work.
- Thread starter
- #12
sounds like i make still have a problem if the cylinder is supposed to rotate 90 degrees. Not sure if the rod was removed because the motor was bad or something else is jammed up. Appreciate the help.
- Thread starter
- #13
very helpful pictures. thanks!this in a 60, so no power lock. Assuming a 62 can't be much different, these parts are the only ones that should matter(if the linkage is off to motor) (the wifes 62 is full of crap or I would look)
depending on if the motor pushes or pulles to unlock, you may be able to get it work one way with some zip ties.....but finding the linkage should be pretty easy
wire going to latch is if I recall for the rear dome light switch, nothing to do with locking or motor
this is with the interior pull handle up
just in case something else is missing, the pull knob must be up to release the bottom gate, then the handle is pulled. The lock on the upper gate has no effect on the lower gate(unless you can't open the top)
Came across this thread which might be helpful with troubleshooting the windows/locking door switch
on your LC.
FJ62 Door Lock circuit breaker fuse location
I'll attempt to post some pics of my 62 rear hatch lock mechanism tonite to assist.
on your LC.
FJ62 Door Lock circuit breaker fuse location
I'll attempt to post some pics of my 62 rear hatch lock mechanism tonite to assist.
- Thread starter
- #15
Much appreciated!
DO NOT USE WD-40 IN YOUR LOCKS. This is coming form years as a locksmith. Wd-40 is a temporary fix that will cause gummy locks in about 3-6 months and create worse problems. Clean out the locks with brake clean and use something like Super lube Dri-film. Best thing I have found for locks.
Super Lube 11016 Aerosols Dri-Film, 11 oz: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
Super Lube 11016 Aerosols Dri-Film, 11 oz: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
DoubleNickels
SILVER Star
DoubleNickels
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #20
I was able to pick up the linkage from cruiserparts.net for $5. Granted, I had to add a few more items to make shipping worth it but these rugs always need attention. Hope to get the part soon.
For the record, I cannot get the key to turn. It's like the cylinder is keyed differently. Sucks, but won't be an issue when I get the linkage installed and eventually add keyless entry (after I fix the other power locks).
For the record, I cannot get the key to turn. It's like the cylinder is keyed differently. Sucks, but won't be an issue when I get the linkage installed and eventually add keyless entry (after I fix the other power locks).
