Fj62 help. Time for an egr delete? (3 Viewers)

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Jun 12, 2025
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Location
Eureka, California
1989 fj62 Land Cruiser automatic 3fe
Hello everyone,
Recently developed a pretty strong ticking noise. Adjusted valves to spec with my Toyota repair manual. Didn’t fix it. Moved on to my next thought being an exhaust leak. Upon removing the intake manifold I found that the air injection manifold had two tubes that had completely broken off shown in pics. Now I’m left with the options of buying a new one used or possibly doing an egr delete? Advice?

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The EGR system doesn't interact at all with the air injection system. Those broken ai manifold nozzles aren't part of the EGR system.
I purchased a very good condition used air injection manifold a long time ago from a vendor parting out cruisers. I had one broken nozzle.
Toyota still sold the cylinder head plugs that replace the ai ports in the cylinder head .. years ago. If you want to go that route.
If you cant find a used ai manifold, its acceptable to block off those two holes in it that are missing the nozzles and run the engine like that. It will still pass a smog test.

Maybe you can buy a new-old stock ai manifold from Japan


DSC03672 Air Injection Plug.JPG
 
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The EGR system doesn't interact at all with the air injection system. Those broken ai manifold nozzles aren't part of the EGR system.
I purchased a very good condition used air injection manifold a long time ago from a vendor parting out cruisers. I had one broken nozzle.
Toyota still sold the cylinder head plugs that replace the ai ports in the cylinder head .. years ago. If you want to go that route.
If you cant find a used ai manifold, its acceptable to block off those two holes in it that are missing the nozzles and run the engine like that. It will still pass a smog test.

Maybe you can buy a new-old stock ai manifold from Japan


View attachment 3942904
Ok thanks for the info, very new to all this stuff so I appreciate all this info.
 
Don’t worry OSS ignored me too 😂
Well, logged to confirm. I don't even know who that is. But it's good info so, whatever. As @Godwin said, the FJ62 is easy to desmog, deleting the air rail is part of it. It is super easy to break as you found out.

(Sorry I hurt your feelings or whatever @OSS)
 
If you cant find a used ai manifold, its acceptable to block off those two holes in it that are missing the nozzles and run the engine like that. It will still pass a smog test.
IMG_7540.jpeg
I'd be skeptical on that. Perhaps, but not sure I'd bet much money on it.
 
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1989 fj62 Land Cruiser automatic 3fe
Hello everyone,
Recently developed a pretty strong ticking noise. Adjusted valves to spec with my Toyota repair manual. Didn’t fix it. Moved on to my next thought being an exhaust leak. Upon removing the intake manifold I found that the air injection manifold had two tubes that had completely broken off shown in pics. Now I’m left with the options of buying a new one used or possibly doing an egr delete? Advice?
I recently removed the smog stuff on mine, seems to run a little smoother and slightly less “noise” which I attribute to the smog pump. I used the kit that Godwin linked to above. So based on my experience I’d say delete if you can. If not - used parts are still around just need to get them from the desert where they aren’t rusted like yours.

Regarding the tick - it *could* be your smog pump vanes. It could be a number of other items as well and would recommend using a long bar or screwdriver as a “stethoscope” on the non-moving portions of the engine and accessories to help identify where it’s coming from. Use extreme caution - you don’t want it puncturing your ear or brain.
 
I'd be skeptical on that. Perhaps, but not sure I'd bet much money on it.
I had 2 broken off & sealed air injection nozzles on my 2F air injection manifold & my engine passed smog tests for 15 years.
 
Interesting. I do know all smog tests are not the same (for example, Tucson is slightly less stringent than Phoenix), so not sure how that would measure up nationally.
 
I recently removed the smog stuff on mine, seems to run a little smoother and slightly less “noise” which I attribute to the smog pump. I used the kit that Godwin linked to above. So based on my experience I’d say delete if you can. If not - used parts are still around just need to get them from the desert where they aren’t rusted like yours.

Regarding the tick - it *could* be your smog pump vanes. It could be a number of other items as well and would recommend using a long bar or screwdriver as a “stethoscope” on the non-moving portions of the engine and accessories to help identify where it’s coming from. Use extreme caution - you don’t want it puncturing your ear or brain.
As far as
I recently removed the smog stuff on mine, seems to run a little smoother and slightly less “noise” which I attribute to the smog pump. I used the kit that Godwin linked to above. So based on my experience I’d say delete if you can. If not - used parts are still around just need to get them from the desert where they aren’t rusted like yours.

Regarding the tick - it *could* be your smog pump vanes. It could be a number of other items as well and would recommend using a long bar or screwdriver as a “stethoscope” on the non-moving portions of the engine and accessories to help identify where it’s coming from. Use extreme caution - you don’t want it puncturing your ear or brain.
I have an automotive stethoscope and had spent a lot of time trying to diagnose but was till left uncertain. I’ve decided to desmog. Seems like the easiest cheapest option right now. I’m gonna put it all back together Thursday night and will update my post. Thanks for sharing.
 
I recently removed the smog stuff on mine, seems to run a little smoother and slightly less “noise” which I attribute to the smog pump. I used the kit that Godwin linked to above. So based on my experience I’d say delete if you can. If not - used parts are still around just need to get them from the desert where they aren’t rusted like yours.

Regarding the tick - it *could* be your smog pump vanes. It could be a number of other items as well and would recommend using a long bar or screwdriver as a “stethoscope” on the non-moving portions of the engine and accessories to help identify where it’s coming from. Use extreme caution - you don’t want it puncturing your ear or brain.
How was the idle affected after the delete? I’ve heard the ecu compensates after driving around for a while. Was this the case for you?
 

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