FJ62 Fusible Link Rebuild or Replace (1 Viewer)

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Location
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I have been looking through the forums on fusible links for several hours now and have come up with a few concerns and several questions.

My concerns are:
1. The dreaded "click" has started to come back in this hot Texas heat, I have already replaced battery, terminal connectors, starter, and alt. So I fear that my fusible link will give its farewells sooner rather than later. It already looks like it's on its last leg. (see attached photos)

2. Looking through the forums it seems that one, there is not very much to be found on repairing the FJ62 fusible link, they seem to be mostly talking about the 60 series. And two, good DIY/aftermarket replacements are either non compatible/messy (will elaborate) or seem expensive (Correct me if I am wrong. Though keep in mind I am young and working my way through college while trying to be as thrifty as possible).


As for the questions:
1. I would like to first try and repair/save the fusible link that I already have before it goes out. If possible. If not, I would still like learn about what electrical knowledge goes into making this component tick and what I would need to do to repair it, from an engineering standpoint (aspiring engineer). Or where should I be looking to teach myself more on these topics? If not for me than for others who reference this discussion.

2. Looking through the 60-62 forums it seems @BurntToast has the best/cleanest DIY FJ62 Fusible Link Replacement Discussion. So I have a few questions directed your way. Your discussion had a lot to wrap my head around so let me know if you already answered these questions and I will take a deeper look into your thread and report back here.
-What is a cost estimate for your DIY fusible link including SCS? Do you have a BOM?
-Does your current position account for the washer reservoir? Pic attached for reference.
-What other positions did you have in mind? I assume I would want the fuse as close as possible to the battery?
Is there any "unnecessary" emissions components that could free up space?
-Could you give me a time estimate to uninstall/replace my fusible link with your solution?

3. For the aftermarket solution, it seems that @CruiserTrash has the best replacement* for those wishing for a not so technical approach.
*Have you completed the FJ62 fusible link replacement?
If not, do you have a possible BOM that I could reference to combine your COTS solutions with BurntToasts DIY? I was hoping for a more space friendly solution.

I know this is a lot, so thank you in advance to all who help enlighten me on my Land Cruiser journey.
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1) My understanding is the fusible link is designed to be similar to a slow blow fuse and the primary weak point in the harness to protect your car from burning down if there is an issue somewhere on the vehicle harness.
It is possible to buy the correct connectors/terminals and new fusible link wire online to build an exact replica of the current set up. This might be the most cost effective solution but will take some internet sleuthing to find all the right stuff and youll have to get the right crimpers etc etc etc

Its all part of the fun with these rigs......
 
@The Matt Grey FJ

62 link kit is not ready yet, chipped away at some work on it this past weekend though, in between my 15 hour front diff replacement and my 3 hours wrap up job on it the next day. I will broadcast widely when it’s ready.

Space is the hard part in the 62 engine bay, and frankly why it’s taking me so long to get that kit ready - I keep going back and forth on the best location. It’s not as crammed as a modern engine bay, but Toyota used the space really inefficiently. A little reservoir here, a widget over there, a hose running over yonder. It could really have been condensed during the design process to alloy room not only to work, but for later additions.

@PBcuiser The connectors are the tough part on most of this stuff. Rebuilding a fusible link is pretty straightforward once you find the right materials and the proper depinning tools. New connectors, though…
 
2. Looking through the 60-62 forums it seems @BurntToast has the best/cleanest DIY FJ62 Fusible Link Replacement Discussion. So I have a few questions directed your way. Your discussion had a lot to wrap my head around so let me know if you already answered these questions and I will take a deeper look into your thread and report back here.
-What is a cost estimate for your DIY fusible link including SCS? Do you have a BOM?
-Does your current position account for the washer reservoir? Pic attached for reference.
-What other positions did you have in mind? I assume I would want the fuse as close as possible to the battery?
Is there any "unnecessary" emissions components that could free up space?
-Could you give me a time estimate to uninstall/replace my fusible link with your solution?

-Cost was around $150-175, without tools if you dont have crimpers, etc
-Regarding the washer, mine was broken, but I did try to stay out of its way with the bend. Not 100% sure, but you could 3d print the file in my thread to check
-Mine is LS swapped, so there is tons of room, but this one made the most sense with the size of that fuse block. There may be other fuse block options that are smaller, but I didnt dive into them as deeply as @CruiserTrash has
-If you live in a free state, you can remove all your emissions stuff, but that really opens up the drivers side, somewhat farther from the battery.
-With all the parts, probably 4 hours


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-Cost was around $150-175, without tools if you dont have crimpers, etc
-Regarding the washer, mine was broken, but I did try to stay out of its way with the bend. Not 100% sure, but you could 3d print the file in my thread to check
-Mine is LS swapped, so there is tons of room, but this one made the most sense with the size of that fuse block. There may be other fuse block options that are smaller, but I didnt dive into them as deeply as @CruiserTrash has
-If you live in a free state, you can remove all your emissions stuff, but that really opens up the drivers side, somewhat farther from the battery.
-With all the parts, probably 4 hours


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That fuse panel is a big boy, isn’t it? It’s one of several I have sitting on my workbench for a future 62 kit. And that’s another part of the issue for me: the 60 only needs three fuses and I have a nice tight, smallish box for that. For the 62 I’m dealing with less room in the engine bay and the need for a larger box to accommodate 5 fuses. Such a simple thing has caused me a lot of frustration haha!
 
That fuse panel is a big boy, isn’t it? It’s one of several I have sitting on my workbench for a future 62 kit. And that’s another part of the issue for me: the 60 only needs three fuses and I have a nice tight, smallish box for that. For the 62 I’m dealing with less room in the engine bay and the need for a larger box to accommodate 5 fuses. Such a simple thing has caused me a lot of frustration haha!
Yup that’s the #1 issue. I did consider using 2x of the smaller ones you used for the FJ60, but that just distributed the location issue.

There are options that aren’t sealed, but I also didn’t like those.

Tough problem to solve!
 
I was playing around in the engine bay and came up with this idea as a possible fix to the OEM DIY fusible link location problem and wanted to bounce it off you guys while I CAD up the bracket. Does this location/setup seem reasonable? It would mount to the washer reservoir mounting point and to the wheel well. @CruiserTrash @BurntToast

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I was playing around in the engine bay and came up with this idea as a possible fix to the OEM DIY fusible link location problem and wanted to bounce it off you guys while I CAD up the bracket. Does this location/setup seem reasonable? It would mount to the washer reservoir mounting point and to the wheel well. @CruiserTrash @BurntToast

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Might get interference from the hood assist spring. Maybe it sneaks by though. You also want the shortest distance possible between the fuses and the battery + post. The longer the run, the more of a risk of an unfused dead short.
 
Might get interference from the hood assist spring. Maybe it sneaks by though. You also want the shortest distance possible between the fuses and the battery + post. The longer the run, the more of a risk of an unfused dead short.
It was either there or on the air filter bracket, out of the two this one seemed less invasive but I will continue to play around and keep you updated.
 
Might get interference from the hood assist spring. Maybe it sneaks by though. You also want the shortest distance possible between the fuses and the battery + post. The longer the run, the more of a risk of an unfused dead short.
Can you explain what you mean a little bit more, I understand that shorter is better, but in this case what is "short". Is it like 2in or 6in, and at what point does length start to make a noticeable difference. I thought it was because the longer the wire the more resistance there is, or is that the cause of an "unfused dead short"?
 
Have you looked at mounting the fuse box under the battery tray @CruiserTrash?
No, but you’re getting warm to a place I’m seriously thinking about. Regarding accessibility I think it needs to be easier to get to than that.
 
You’re a Brutt for self punishment Cruiser Trash…keep up the good work. I certainly commend your past and future efforts with your steadfast attention to detail.
I appreciate it. I have a day job, so this endeavor isn't a cash grab, but I could certainly make more money if I cared about fit/finish less and just kicked new products out the door more rapidly.

To me though ... I won't buy a product unless it's right. What does "right" mean? You know it when you see it.
 
I appreciate it. I have a day job, so this endeavor isn't a cash grab, but I could certainly make more money if I cared about fit/finish less and just kicked new products out the door more rapidly.

To me though ... I won't buy a product unless it's right. What does "right" mean? You know it when you see it.
100% agree with your last statement. Some solutions work but aren’t “right”
 
I think the repair option viable. I was able to salvage my connectors. I did plan on an alternative connector in case I couldn't salvage mine. The double link wire, connectors, crimpers, heat shrink, etc were all available on Amazon. The FJ62 fusible link gets confusing with the FJ60 link because people start saying they have one to sell you it are offering a product that is still available from Toyota. The FJ62 fusible link is not available new but it is fairly simple to recreate.

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So what did you do @The Matt Gray FJ?
 

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