FJ62 DIY Cargo Box (1 Viewer)

[cruiserpilot]

This is one of the most well thought out rear cargo areas I've ever seen that was home built. I think you might owe
your buddy a good bottle of rum on top of beer! The only small thing I see is some kind of trim for the edge of
cutting block drawer to stop food, etc from sliding over into the drawer slides. I have no idea, just thought it
could make for a gross clean up if something liquid got spilled in the drawer slide.

 

[Dozer18]

If you are inclined to paint it, Rustoleum used to make (maybe still do) a basic utility paint in various colors. I used it for a bunch of different projects. Water based, low gloss hard finish, no odor, easy to clean surface.
I like paint because it will help seal out the odor of raw plywood in such an enclosed space.
LineX or similar may be too rough.
.....$0.02

You know, I hadn't really thought about painting it but you've given me an idea... I'll look further into this after getting the new top and platform on. Thanks!

 

[Dozer18]

This is one of the most well thought out rear cargo areas I've ever seen that was home built. I think you might owe
your buddy a good bottle of rum on top of beer! The only small thing I see is some kind of trim for the edge of
cutting block drawer to stop food, etc from sliding over into the drawer slides. I have no idea, just thought it
could make for a gross clean up if something liquid got spilled in the drawer slide.

I appreciate the kind words and those of the others. I have to admit, despite some pretty detailed planning, it came out better than we expected.

I got these D-rings off Amazon for 4 bucks each; they are much beefier than the Amazon pics suggested. I'm very happy with them. I bolted three on each side and attached this $10 cargo net and some bungee cords I also got from Amazon. The net was the perfect size and was actually very useful when strapping down firewood, sleeping bags, and other assorted crap on last weekend's trip. Will further test and refine this weekend.

 

[Dozer18]

Very nice, you've inspired me to make one!

I drew everything out to scale on graph paper and pretty much executed from that. Happy to post up if you're interested; it's a decent starting point from which to deviate and add your own needs/ideas.

 

[TallCanDan]

.....Going to put a new top on it next week with 3/4" finished birch and glue & screw it down. Still trying to figure out how I'm going to finish it. Carpet, LineX, stain, etc...

Some birch edge banding to go with the new top would be sweet on all your endgrain, and will take stain. If you're going with paint, bondo will work fine for the endgrain just a thought.

 

[Dozer18]

Some birch edge banding to go with the new top would be sweet on all your endgrain, and will take stain. If you're going with paint, bondo will work fine for the endgrain just a thought.

Thanks, man - that is very helpful. I definitely want to do something about the endgrain.

 

[Rob Faucett]

I did appropriate width red oak on my kitchen box and it's bomb proof. Good call.

 

[Dozer18]

I did appropriate width red oak on my kitchen box and it's bomb proof. Good call.

Rob, you got some pics of that? Haven't heard much from you lately!

 

[Rob Faucett]

Buried at work. I can take some tomorrow.

 

[Dozer18]

So, I'm working out some ideas on how to incorporate a legit sleeping platform into this box. One idea I really liked (and credit a friend with) was to have essentially a "second" box top that slides forward to rest on a ledge and serve as the platform. It would rest on top of the box and I would fix it in place with large rare earth magnets put flush on the surface. It would slide towards the front when deployed, and one end would rest on a 1.5" ledge I fixed onto the box and the other end would rest on the forward-folded rear-seat bottom. Here are the pics:

Obviously the cargo net and bungees would come off, and I can cut memory foam to size or just lay an inflatable twin over it. Had my 14yo, 150lb son climb up on it and it seemed to hold well. Not sure if I'll stick with this, but the next best idea involves two piano hinges and folding it over on itself. Thoughts/comments welcome!

 

[GLTHFJ60]

It's been a constant battle for me trying to come up with a solution that works well. Are you committed to keeping your rear seat?

Some sort of sliding solution is what I'm working on developing now, so that I can have a full 7' of sleeping room. That's how much room makes it comfortable for me. I will warn you that if you plan to make a solution that hinges and folds back (see my moonshine thread, most recent post) you'll need to clearance the corners to fit around the roof, quite a bit in your case, since your box is a medium height. A double-hinge setup, where the platform hinges at the storage box and in the middle, would fit better for you I think.

 

[Dozer18]

It's been a constant battle for me trying to come up with a solution that works well. Are you committed to keeping your rear seat?

Some sort of sliding solution is what I'm working on developing now, so that I can have a full 7' of sleeping room. That's how much room makes it comfortable for me. I will warn you that if you plan to make a solution that hinges and folds back (see my moonshine thread, most recent post) you'll need to clearance the corners to fit around the roof, quite a bit in your case, since your box is a medium height. A double-hinge setup, where the platform hinges at the storage box and in the middle, would fit better for you I think.

You hit the nail on the head. The hinge solution would require a piano hinge where the extension meets the back of the box, and again about 2/3 of the way down the extension so it clears the roof. The extension would fold over on top of the box. Essentially the same profile as my other idea, just a difference in execution and possibly much more stable when stowed. Increases box height by 3/4" either way.

And yes, I'm committed to keeping the rear seat; I have kids that come along on adventures and at least one won't be driving on her own for six more years.

 

[Skniper]

I like the sliding deck idea, much simpler. My mind always seems to default to a piano hinge type design when imagining a storable sleeping deck. This slider seems so much easier, just need to ensure its anchored well while stored and deployed. Think of worst case scenario in a wreck, etc...may need more than magnets to anchor it.
Beware the finger pinching factor with a hinge design, esp. with the little ones.

Does the sliding extension end up being the same length as the box?

 

[Dozer18]

I like the sliding deck idea, much simpler. My mind always seems to default to a piano hinge type design when imagining a storable sleeping deck. This slider seems so much easier, just need to ensure its anchored well while stored and deployed. Think of worst case scenario in a wreck, etc...may need more than magnets to anchor it.
Beware the finger pinching factor with a hinge design, esp. with the little ones.

Does the sliding extension end up being the same length as the box?

Yep. It's basically a duplicate of the box top. When not deployed it would also be secured under the cargo net and bungees. Not perfect but would keep it from flying around in a mishap.

 

[Dozer18]

Made a new top for the box this weekend using nice sanded 3/4" ply. A much better option until I figure out how to finish it. My buddy Matt routed it out so it fit nice and flush, then we glued and screwed it down.

Also cut out a piece to make a lid for the tool box; I have gas struts for it but need to score some hinges. This will give me a nice little work surface if needed.

 

[Dozer18]

Finally got around to installing the lid/work surface to the tool drawer today. Couple of overhang hinges on the back, and one gas strut was enough to hold it open enough for me to easily reach in.

 

[BulletHead]

It's been a constant battle for me trying to come up with a solution that works well. Are you committed to keeping your rear seat?

Some sort of sliding solution is what I'm working on developing now, so that I can have a full 7' of sleeping room. That's how much room makes it comfortable for me. I will warn you that if you plan to make a solution that hinges and folds back (see my moonshine thread, most recent post) you'll need to clearance the corners to fit around the roof, quite a bit in your case, since your box is a medium height. A double-hinge setup, where the platform hinges at the storage box and in the middle, would fit better for you I think.

@GLTHFJ60 I definitely want to build one with NO rear seat and a sleeping platform. I think there may be a ton of room without the seats to have drawers slide out through the rear doors sideways, but would be limited by the max opening angle of the rear doors.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

@GLTHFJ60 I definitely want to build one with NO rear seat and a sleeping platform. I think there may be a ton of room without the seats to have drawers slide out through the rear doors sideways, but would be limited by the max opening angle of the rear doors.

I had that thought, but the rear doors don't swing open enough to have a usable drawer IMHO. I thought about removing the door limiting straps to let the swing open a little wider but it looks like they'd hit the hinges without gaining much angle.

Definitely worth another look though.

 

[Dozer18]

I had that thought, but the rear doors don't swing open enough to have a usable drawer IMHO. I thought about removing the door limiting straps to let the swing open a little wider but it looks like they'd hit the hinges without gaining much angle.

Definitely worth another look though.

I hear you guys. If I didn't need the back seat I would have built pretty much the same setup extending all the way to the front seat, and perhaps a little shallower.

If you want to utilize storage that you can access from the rear doors, but not use drawers (you're right, I don't think the doors open enough to make it worth it), how about this: build a trap-door hatch into the top of the box on each side that hinges upwards so you can access from the back doors. Don't need a drawer that pulls out; just a top that opens UP. Rather than a handle, drill a hole and insert a paracord knot so you can open it.

You can then have drawers that open through the tailgate, but the drawers stop about 40" back; from the back of the drawers to the back of the front seat would be a storage area accessible through the top of the box...

 

[BulletHead]

I hear you guys. If I didn't need the back seat I would have built pretty much the same setup extending all the way to the front seat, and perhaps a little shallower.

If you want to utilize storage that you can access from the rear doors, but not use drawers (you're right, I don't think the doors open enough to make it worth it), how about this: build a trap-door hatch into the top of the box on each side that hinges upwards so you can access from the back doors. Don't need a drawer that pulls out; just a top that opens UP. Rather than a handle, drill a hole and insert a paracord knot so you can open it.

You can then have drawers that open through the tailgate, but the drawers stop about 40" back; from the back of the drawers to the back of the front seat would be a storage area accessible through the top of the box...

That's exactly what I was thinking as plan B. Trap door would work awesome plus, easy access through the rear doors.