fj62 cranks but won't start, bad fuel pump?

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Joined
Jan 1, 2009
Threads
14
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58
Location
Texas Hill Country
Website
www.jefemade.com
My 89' fj62 cranks but won't start. Lately it has been hard to start when cold‚ once warm it starts fine. Here's what I have tried.

  1. Did the spark plug test—definitely have spark
  2. Sprayed carb starter/cleaner into air filter—she starts and runs for only a couple of seconds (this means I am not getting fuel?)
  3. Next, turned ignition on and listened for the fuel pump sound—while under the tank and even put my ear over the tank while lying in the back—still I heard nothing.
Some background on the rig (pics atached): !35,000, super clean, no rust, never been offroad by PO (light offroad by me). She now has a H55F 5 speed tranny with about 3,500 mis.

Maybe important and probably not worth mentioning, I ran across a mouse living in the hoods insulation—checked for chewed wires, none visable—the mouse escaped with minor injuries.

What should be my next step and what are the first things to rule out? If it's my fuel pump, does anyone have a step-by-step thread for dropping the tank and replacing the FP?

Thanks all!
davis_fj62_1.webp
davis_fj62_2.webp
 
Turning the ignition to ON will not make the fuel pump run. What you need to do is make a jumper from a paperclip, then jump across the Fp and B+ contacts in the diagnostic connector. This connector is under the hood, passenger side of the firewall, near the charcoal canister. Put the jumper in, turn the key to ON, then listen to hear if the fuel pump is running. You should be able to hear fuel hissing thru the fuel rail on top of the engine.

Try this then report back.
 
Thanks KLF for the quick reply.

The 62 is stranded about 20 miles from home. I'm headed back first thing in the AM (with the A-frame tow bar off my old CJ5) to retrieve it. I will try the "paperclip jumper" first thing and report back. If I hear the fuel pump running, should I presume that the FP is good? What should be the next move if the pump is good?

Thanks again!
 
If the fuel pump is good, then you just need to validate that the fuel is making it to the engine. Take off the fuel filter in the engine compartment and see if it is getting there and past it, or if the fuel filter is clogged. Also, try putting more gas in it. I had the same problem when my fuel level got to about a half tank because there was so much crud in the bottom of the tank. I went out and got some gas and filled it up and it started right up. There's a sock on the fuel pump that can get clogged, especially as the fuel level gets low.
 
Thanks!

The fuel level makes sense. The rig is at about a 1/4 tank and is parked on a slight incline (making the fuel level appear even lower?). On the other hand, I hate to add fuel if the tank needs to be emptied and dropped.

Just in case anyone is worried -- I will definitely do the paperclip jumper to confirm that I have a working FP before I add anymore fuel to the tank.
 
Sitting here reading thru the diagnostic section of the FSM...

Be sure to check all fuses and the fusible links. The EFI fuse is in the block behind that little panel near your left knee when you're behind the wheel. The fusible links are in that bundle of wires right at the + terminal on the battery.

Check the EFI Main Relay. It's attached to the inner fender, little silver metal box, right by the air filter canister.

If you can hear fuel hissing in the lines, see if the truck will start with the paper clip in place. If so, check the Circuit Opening Relay. It's located behind the passenger side kickpanel.

Highly highly recommend you get your hands on a FSM. Nice looking truck, BTW.
 
Here's one tip I learned with the paper clip test when my fuel pump went bad. While performing the test I could hear the pump, but it turned out to not be pumping. It was so clogged/gummed up that it would pump fuel.

Just something to keep in mind.
 
I will keep this in mind. My daughter overheard me talking about all this and reminded me that we ran out of gas last week in the rig. Even though she is 7 she is sharp. There is a good chance I sucked up 20+ years of crap from the tank. I will start going step by painful step and pray it's something simple. If not I will start collecting milk jugs to drain the tank -- just kiddin. Of course there is a 90% chance of rain tomorrow.

Thanks for all the help!
 
More likely when you ran out of gas, you burnt up your pump. Mike
 
DavisFJ62,
There is a way to bypass dropping the tank but it includes cutting into your truck. If yours is stock and you prefer not to then you need to drop your spare tire carrier and then remove your sway bar mounts (two 12mm bolts on each frame rail.) Then you disconnect the fuel filler hose via the spring clamp. Then there are two straps which come unbolted. Then the gas tank is free and will drop. Keep in mind that even though the tank is loose the fuel lines and fuel sender are still connected. To make things easier you can disconnect the fuel level sensor via a panel in the rear cargo area under the carpet using a Phillips screwdriver to take out the screws.

My personal suggestion is to cut into the cargo area. This will allow you to access your fuel pump in the future at any time and also check visually for debris.

I had to replace my fuel pump last year. When I dropped the tank I found an aftermarket fuel pump. I suggest installing an OEM one if you plan to have the rig for another 100,000 miles as it will be better quality and prevent this situation from happening again.

The fact that you ran out of gas last week is a good indication that it is probably the fuel pump. I really doubt that the circuit opening relay or EFI relay are damaged.

Here are some pictures to motivate you going the easy destructive path:
tlc001.jpg


NOTICE HOW EASY IT IS TO ACCESS THE FUEL PUMP WITH ONLY MINOR CUTS:
tlc003.jpg
 
Hey Mike,
What tool did you use to cut the sheet metal—saws-all, skill saw with metal cutting blade, grinder/cutter, or a Dremel tool? I am a little concerned about sparks? I have drained the tank and removed the tire carrier/cross member so far. It's not to late to cut the floor. I was planning on calling cruiser Dan in the AM and ordering the parts. Does any one have a parts list. I know I need the FP and the sock filter—is there anything else? I was also planning on replacing the fuel filter and cleaning the cold start injector for safe measure.
Thanx,
Jeff
 
Just drop the tank. It takes about 1-2 hours with help.Oem pump,Denso, And new sock filter.Fairly easy but dirty wear safety googles. Mike
 
call your local toyota dealer, or toyota, give them your vin and see if your cruiser has had the fuel tank recall done.
if not, drop it off at your local toyota dealer and have them replace the fuel tank free of charge and install the new pump at the same time.

mine is at the dealership as we speak getting a new fuel tank. FOR FREE...

cheers,
 
Just checked, my 62 was done in 1991.
 
The tank is out—no fun alone! The tank was spotless—no rust!

While I am waiting for the fuel pump, sock filter and bracket from Cruiser Dan I got to work on other projects on the 62, which included:
1). New poly bushings
2). New Bilstein shocks
3). 2" shackles w/ greasable pins
4). Degreased and power-washed the entire under-carriage (looks like new)
5). Cleaned cold start injector and replaced o-ring
6). New fuel filter
7). Replaced all rubber fuel lines (vent lines) at the back of the fuel tank
8). Having a few cold beers after my wife's fed me tacos

I appreciate all of the info — iH8mud rules! Thanks everyone. Pictures to follow.
 
The tank is out—no fun alone! The tank was spotless—no rust!

While I am waiting for the fuel pump, sock filter and bracket from Cruiser Dan I got to work on other projects on the 62, which included:
1). New poly bushings
2). New Bilstein shocks
3). 2" shackles w/ greasable pins
4). Degreased and power-washed the entire under-carriage (looks like new)
5). Cleaned cold start injector and replaced o-ring
6). New fuel filter
7). Replaced all rubber fuel lines (vent lines) at the back of the fuel tank
8). Having a few cold beers after my wife's fed me tacos

I appreciate all of the info — iH8mud rules! Thanks everyone. Pictures to follow.

Can you go over how you cleaned the cold start injector? That is something I have yet to tackle. Was it pretty easy?
 
Pulls like a dream. With the H55F and 411 gears my LC62 is very "torquey". When pulling the trailer, I usually run in fourth gear (try not to exceed 60 MPH) at about 2800 rpm. I find that by traveling at lower speeds it gives fellow motorist time to admire the LC and the trailer. Taking that all in is probably a little overwhelming for the mini-van crowd.
 
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Yesterday I drove my FJ62 around running errands in the morning. It ran fine. My wife and I went back out in the evening to drive to dinner for our anniversary. The FJ62 started (took a little longer than usual to start), seemed to run fine. I pulled it out of the garage and drove about 20 yards and it cut off. It cranks over very strong but won't start.

Troubleshooting this morning (using my FSM) - I'm definitely getting spark. All the fuses are good. The distributor was replaced about 8 months ago (with an OEM distributor). I'm going to start checking the fuel pump when my wife gets home. How can you tell if the fusable links are bad? What should I look for when checking the Circuit Opening Relay?

My mother-in-law borrowed the Cruiser on Friday to run some errands, and I suspect that she ran out of gas, or close to it. I suspect this because she has borrowed my Cruiser several times in the past and NEVER ONCE put gas in it, and when she borrowed it on Friday it was below 1/2 a tank, and returned full...

davisfj62 - did you do the paper clip test? How did that work - What did you find?

Any other suggestions?
 

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