fj62 cranks but won't start, bad fuel pump?

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Jamie,

I would guess fuel pump and in my case it was. I did the whole job by myself and it took about 5 hours. It's not hard it just messy and having a second person will help. Go with a Denso FP, I got everything from Cruiser Dan for about $300.00, my local dealer want 675.00 for the same parts. Also replace the "sook" filter and the o-ring. Also while the tank is out it is a good time to pressure-wash the under carriage prior to re-assembly, trust me it makes the last half of the project worth wile.


There are a few things to try.

First, FJ62s have a recall o the gas tank dating back to 1991. Call your local toyota dealer and give him your VIN number. You might get lucky and they can put in the fuel pump at the same time they change out the tank.

Spray carb starter/cleaner into air filter assembly—if it starts and runs for only a couple of seconds this means you are not getting fuel.

The paper clip test is easy to do. The instructions are in the middle part of the thread. In my case it definitely confirmed that the fuel pump was not working.

I'm with you, I never really knew what to look for on the fusible link; mine looked pristine.

If it is the fuel pump your MIL did you no favors by filling the tank up. In my case i purchased high end jerry cans to drain the fuel into and now I have 15 gallons of fuel reserve. Good luck.

Jeff
 
That should read "sock" filter, not "sook" filter.
 
Just did the paperclip test. I could hear the fuel pump whining, but still wouldn't start.

I left the paperclip in place, and disconnected the fuel line before the filter, turned the switch back to 'On' and didn't get a single drop of fuel from the fuel line... Last year when I had my distributor issue, I initially suspected the fuel pump, so I disconnected the fuel line at the filter, and it shot gas all the way across the parking lot!



The new fuel filter doesn't come with a new sock filter?

...I checked with my parts hook-up, and he is quoting me $253 for a new Toyota OEM fuel pump. I'm going to call Cruiser Dan too, just to check.
 
SAR_Squid79,
From your description above talking about running out of gas; my guess is that the crud in the very bottom of your tank might have clogged or damaged your fuel pump. I would not spend any time on electronics, including the circuit opening relay since you are getting spark. It sounds like the pump is dead or the fuel line is clogged since you are not getting any gas flow at the filter during your paperclip test.

Not to throw another wrench in the problem but you also have to keep the fuel pressure regulator in mind. It is on the fuel rail before the injectors and after the fuel filter. I doubt it is your issue since you already mentioned a lack of flow at the filter, but nonetheless something to at least know of in the fuel schematic.

Davisfj62,
FYI: The paperclip test by itself cannot tell you conclusively whether or not the fuel pump is working. The paperclip test only bypasses the electronics (ECU, EFI Relay, and circuit opening relay) which in turn is like directly hot wiring your fuel pump to the on position. Not hearing the pump when doing the test indicates the pump is not getting power (i.e. bad wiring) or the pump is completely seized. Hearing noise doing the test from the pump only tells you that the pump is getting power. It does not tell you if it is working to it’s full capacity.
 
So - My parts hook-up at Toyota has told be that there is an Aisin pump, and a Denso pump. There's $40 differece in price, and they're interchangable.

The Aisin is the more expensive... Which one should I go with? Do either of them come with a new pump filter (sock filter)?
 
BUMP!
 
At a little over 300,000 I am on my third fuel pump. First replacement was OEM, 2nd was Denso. They look identical and both have the sock filter. Think the Denso was about $90 from local parts store. Its got about 30,000 miles on it. You should also replace the fuel pressure regulator at the same time. I've stopped buying OEM parts because they are about 3 times the cost and so far the non-OEM stuff has worked fine.
 

Squid,
I did not know that there were two pumps listed. I am not sure if one is superioir quality over the other. Since they are both from Japan I personnaly wouldn't care which one it was.

As said above, both should come with the sock.

-Randy
 
Just ordered the pump today. My parts hook-up guy said that neither the Denso or Aisin come with the new Sock Filter, so I had to order that seperately.

I ended up getting the Denso Pump. I was going to go ahead and get the fuel pressure regulator too, just for the hell of it, until he told me that it was $118! ...that'll have to wait!

I drained the fuel tank yesterday (pretty easy thanks to the drain plug), and removed the spare tire, and spare tire mount cross-member. On wednesday I sprayed all the bolts with PB Blaster. Yesterday - Thursday - I went ahead and loosened all the bolts with no problems. All I have to do is disconnect the 2 fuel lines, and the tank should come out nice and easy.
 
Alrighty...

Got the gas tank out today. Not that difficult since my gas tank had a drain plug, and I was able to get all the gas out of it. I do suspect that it will be more difficult to get it back in, though...

I thought that when I disconnected the 2 main fuel lines, disconnected the filler neck, and removed the 2 bolts that hold the Tank Belly Bands, the gas tank would just fall in my lap... BUT NO! I had to disconnect the rear sway bar, and take the sway bar mounts off of the frame. Once those were out of the way, the tank still wouldn't come down! I coulnd't see why . . . until I saw the 5 wierd hoses that are on the right side of the tank that connect to ??????? Once I got those 5 hoses disconnected, the tank did just come right out. ~So it was a bit more than I thought, but not too bad. I would rather do this than cut a hole in my floor!

I pulled the fuel pump assembly out. I removed the pump itself so I could do a bench test on it. I'm pretty sure this pump is F--ked. Here's a video - what do you guys think?

 
the regulaters dont go bad very often........in most makes and models.
Pay close att. to randy..........he has learned tons over the years,dont forget about the peskey wire in the drivers rear quarter
 
All-in-all, not too bad of a job.

It was a little bit of a bitch getting the tank back in place by myself - and it has to be positioned PERFECTLY to get the belly bands back on...

But once that was done, the rest was pretty easy. Definitely not worth paying a shop $650 to do it!

But anyway - I got the new fuel pump back in and she fired right up, and took me to Chick-Fil-A for dinner and back!

Big thanks to the guys at TRDparts4U!
 
im seriously considering cutting into my floor to get to the pump now and for maybe later access. I got a Denso for 118 shipped with socks and o rings and what not. So definitely going to save a few buck there. I am however tempted to take it to a highly recommended shop which quoted $350 labor to do it right by dropping the tank. $350 sounds like a bargain for the job and I usually one to do things myself no matter how hard it is.

What do you think of that pricing? Would you do it again yourself or is it worth 350 to get it done by someone else?
 
What do you think of that pricing? Would you do it again yourself or is it worth 350 to get it done by someone else?

ABSOLUTELY NOT!!!

After having done it myself, I am SOOOO glad that:
#1 - I didn't cut into the floor
#2 - I didn't pay someone else to do it.

It's way easier than you think it is. As long as you're fairly mechanical, and have a decent set of tools, and MAYBE an extra set of hands to help you, it's REALLY not that bad of a job. I did mine 100% completely by myself - dropping the tank and putting it back. It probably took me a total of 4 hours (but I did it in 2 halves on 2 different days).

I'm not saying that it's a piece of cake, but unless you make a hell of a lot more money than I do, it's NOT worth paying a shop. I also considered cutting an access "door", but after having done the job, I absolutely would NOT cut into my floor, or advise it.
 
well, dropped the tank today. You were right, not that bad. had to fight a good number of rusty bolts just to get the darn tire carrier off. From there the only problem I had was the high pressure fuel line fitting. It just would not go loose for me. Thought I'd get better access after lowering the tank a bit since there was flex tube between the tank and the hard-line going to the engine bay. ended up crimping the hardline on the bracket side. It was a bit rusty after getting a good look. So ,on the hunt for that part so that I can button it back up.

I then "bench tested" the old pump in some water. It pumps a stream that seems almost capable by my thumb. I'm not sure of the pressure or stream that's suppose to flow, but I would guess more than what Im getting direct from the pump.
does this logic make sense? I'm just wishful that my no fuel condition is the pump. I changed the FPR and filter recently and do get a slow flow. Im' guessing that the pump is just really weak and seems to be original as it says NP and part number on it and look identical to the new Denso I picked up.
 
Here's the thing to remember when working on these rigs. Unless you get lucky and find a mechanic that has been around a long time and is actually familiar with a 20+ year old FJ62 or 60, the mechanic will be learning as he goes, JUST LIKE YOU! So, if you have the time and the inclination, in my opinion it's better to pay yourself to learn as you go. You'll be glad you did when you are out on a trail somewhere and something goes wrong.
 
I'm kinda diggin' the idea of a panel replacement in the cargo area for this. Inspection panel type setup. Makes alot of sense to me. Maybe someone will come up with a "cut and paste" idea.

Then again, I'm only buying mine tomorrow and driving home 6 hours...I'm only just beginning the addiction.
 
probably took me a total of 4 hours
<snip>
I absolutely would NOT cut into my floor, or advise it.

I strongly advise cutting an access panel in the floor. Why spend 4 hours doing something that can be done in 15 minutes with easy access?
 
I strongly advise cutting an access panel in the floor. Why spend 4 hours doing something that can be done in 15 minutes with easy access?
Because, IMO, unless you're a professional, and/or have a fully-equipt custom metal fab shop at your disposal, there's no way to make an access panel in the floor without it looking like a pile of dick.

I think I'm pretty good at amature fabrication, and I'm pretty sure that if I tried to make a Fuel Pump Access Panel in the floor of my cruiser, it would come out looking booty. It wouldn't be exactly straight, it would let MORE noise into the cab, it might rattle, it might generate rust, etc, etc, etc.
I'm all about doing things right. If I had a machine shop at my disposal, and could make something that looked factory - sure - why not (except that it would probably take LONGER than 4 hours). But I'm pretty sure it WOULD NOT look factory. I'm also pretty sure than in 1990 or 2010, if I took my Cruiser to Toyota to replace the fuel pump, they would not hack up the floor.

I don't think 4 hours of my time is too much to ask for a job done right, and clean.
 

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