fj62 cranks but won't start, bad fuel pump?

[Front Range 4x4]

If you're all about looking factory, how Toyota would do it, and overly concerned about looks of a panel under the carpet we're not even close to the same page.

I don't think mine looks "like a pile of dick" even though it isn't exactly straight it doesn't let in additional noise, doesn't rattle, won't generate rust, etc. I will promise you if we're wheeling together and both of our fuel pumps fail you'd change your view.

Oh yeah, I sealed the gaps made after cutting this using a cheap angle grinder.

 

[SAR_Squid79]

If we're out wheeling and my fuel pump fails, it's not going to matter because I don't carry a spare $260 fuel pump...

 

[Front Range 4x4]

I hear you there! I had the misfortune of a trail failure and carry a spare and cut the access panel. Pretty much assures it will never fail again.

 

[ray6]

I finally finished putting everything back together. Thankfully it started and it was indeed the fuel pump! I used a Denso, and if this one last as long as the first one (200k miles) I don't think I'll be pulling the tank any time too. soon. So I agree, an access panel would be nice, but do it right the first time with a factory part and its not likely you'll be in there again.
Or just get an 80 like I did and you'll have that access panel from the factory. and can drive the 62 less.

 

[c7train]

No fuel from working fuel pump fj62

Okay, I have searched this forum with tons of luck for diagnosis, but with not much luck regarding my exact situation.

I have tried the paper clip test, it failed. By failed I mean the pump did not turn on. However, I have tested the power at the plug by the fuel pump and it has 11 volts while the paperclip is in place.

When I hook a battery directly to the pump with 12 volts, it squirts fuel all over the place, but when I hook a battery showing less than 12v, I get nothing from the pump. The battery in the cruiser shows over 12 volts, but not at the pump, only at the battery. So, does that mean my relay (passenger side kick panel) is bad? I have been working on this for days, replaced the pump, replaced the filter, cut a big F-ing hole in my truck (wish I didn't do that, but now it is what it is). My wife either wants me to fix it or sell it, PLEASE HELP SAVE MY CRUISER.
Thanks
C.

 

[billmc]

Okay, I have searched this forum with tons of luck for diagnosis, but with not much luck regarding my exact situation.

I have tried the paper clip test, it failed. By failed I mean the pump did not turn on. However, I have tested the power at the plug by the fuel pump and it has 11 volts while the paperclip is in place.

When I hook a battery directly to the pump with 12 volts, it squirts fuel all over the place, but when I hook a battery showing less than 12v, I get nothing from the pump. The battery in the cruiser shows over 12 volts, but not at the pump, only at the battery. So, does that mean my relay (passenger side kick panel) is bad? I have been working on this for days, replaced the pump, replaced the filter, cut a big F-ing hole in my truck (wish I didn't do that, but now it is what it is). My wife either wants me to fix it or sell it, PLEASE HELP SAVE MY CRUISER.
Thanks
C.

Check the wiring where it passes over the DS rear wheel well, could be corroded connector not letting enough current pass to drive the pump

 

[c7train]

Check the wiring where it passes over the DS rear wheel well, could be corroded connector not letting enough current pass to drive the pump

I will, then report back. Thanks for checking and providing some info.
Best,
C.

 

[c7train]

So, I checked the wiring over the DS fender and it looks to be in perfect shape, the truck has 179k miles, the PO had the gas tank replaced via recall in 91 according to Toyota, so I get the impression it was well taken care of in that regard. Could it be the relay in the passenger side kick panel (open circuit somethingorother?) preventing the volts from going that way? Thanks again for the help.
C.

 

[billmc]

I'm not in a position to check myself, where does the fuel pump ground? Have you cleaned that and coated with dielectric grease??

 

[bentonrover]

What does this passenger side kick panel relay look like ?

 

[c7train]

SO! I have now replaced the "open circuit relay" under the passenger's side kick panel still same symptoms, turn the key and the fuel pump won't kick on to pump fuel to the engine area. WTF?! I'm losing my S#$% here. People in other threads have talked about the EFI Relay? How does this effect the Fuel pump?
Thanks for the help so far, I hope this works, my wife is walking the line.

C.

 

[Trollhole]

Add a jumper from the ground on the tank pump to the body. See if that helps. I had the same issue as you on a rig. Low voltage but ended up being a poor ground wire to the tank.

 

[c7train]

Okay, I'll try that and see what happens, thanks so much to those who have posted.
C.

 

[mmireles49]

Igniter coil, possibly. One day I was driving Scarlett and at a stop signed, she just decided to die. I pushed her of to the side and tried starting her up. Thought it was a fuel issue cause she would crank, but wouldn't turn over. I had recently changed the fuel pump, so I knew that wasn't it. I even bought a fuel can just to make sure. Towed her home, googled possible issues. And igniter coil came up. Located it, gave a gently tap (didn't want to affect it) cranked it and it started up. Ordered the next day, replaced and no more issues. Just a thought, and a little story too.

 

[c7train]

HHMMM, I have spark at the plugs under cranking, and if I prime the pump with a separate battery it will start and run fine. Would this eliminate the coil from this equation? It's funny, all I heard about before I bought this, is how reliable these trucks are, I wouldn't take this thing beyond city limits! I drove it back 4 hours problem free, but that's appearing have been lucky at this point.

I tried the ground on the tank, no change. Thanks for those of you who have been watching the posts, I'm going to try and acquire a factory service manual as well.
C

 

[mmireles49]

Ok eliminate the coil. I assure you, once you get it going they are. Mines twenty five years old and when I started, I replaced many things. Had many headaches. Many things were still factory, they were never changed. Now I drive her 4 500 miles a week. They just need love.

 

[c7train]

Okay men (and women, not sure) I woke up this morning thinking about...yep my broken land cruiser, but today it was with a different approach. I noted when I first got the vehicle upon using extra electricity (heat, turn signals, etc. there would be a significant drop in the volt meter on the dash, for example when the turn signal would flash the volt meter would drop, drop, drop, accordingly.

In former posts I stated that the cruiser (now in need of a nickname) fails the "paperclip" test, meaning that the fuel pump doesn't kick on. Now, when I have the leads jumped it DOES get voltage, just not 12v. Which is what is stumping me, the wires are solid on the DS fender, I have replaced the open circuit relay (no change) and I believe I jumped the EFI relay last night (no change). This being said, could it be that I have a bad alternator? The logic comes from this:

Under cranking the voltage at the battery is low, around 9-10v. Which means that it doesn't have the power to supply for the starter and the fuel pump long enough to get things rolling. It's a new battery (I think within the needed specs) so it should have more than enough juice yeah? I'm going to have the alternator tested tonight after work hopefully.

My question to you, could a bad alternator lead to no fuel supply via low electrical output?

Best,
C.

 

[Shop Toy]

I am having the same exact problem as you. Truck died after a huge rain. Fails the paper clip test, but I have 11-12 volts at the plug for the pump. Had a spare pump to try out and no luck. Volt meter shows voltage, but if I try to hook anything, even a small light bulb, I get nothing. I'm thinking the relay is so worn out any amperage put to it shuts it down. At least that's what I'm going with...

I'm thinking the issue is somewhere in the driver's rear relay wiring due to moisture and time. I'm going to go through all the wiring there first, and if that doesn't cut it, I'm going race car and adding a switch to directly power the pump.

I cut the floor. Screw dropping the tank. I have too much rust to deal with breaking every other bolt.


If I have any luck I'll pass on what I find. Best of luck to you.

Cory

 

[c7train]

I am having the same exact problem as you. Truck died after a huge rain. Fails the paper clip test, but I have 11-12 volts at the plug for the pump. Had a spare pump to try out and no luck. Volt meter shows voltage, but if I try to hook anything, even a small light bulb, I get nothing. I'm thinking the relay is so worn out any amperage put to it shuts it down. At least that's what I'm going with...

I'm thinking the issue is somewhere in the driver's rear relay wiring due to moisture and time. I'm going to go through all the wiring there first, and if that doesn't cut it, I'm going race car and adding a switch to directly power the pump.

I cut the floor. Screw dropping the tank. I have too much rust to deal with breaking every other bolt.


If I have any luck I'll pass on what I find. Best of luck to you.

Cory

Sounds good, I hope to hear the issue. If it's wiring, let me know where you find it, all my wiring "looks" good, but who knows. No thoughts on the alternator theory?
C.

 

[SDFJ60JFK]

How are you guys sealing the cuts up on the floor? Dirt roads would be very dusty inside the truck.

No need to cut your floor. A floor jack and some time will get her done. I have done this 2 times in the last 2 weeks working on my FJ 60 that is getting a 3FE. I took it down and put it back up in about an hour last night. No rusty bolts here though.

Drain it with the plug, easy.

John