Not sure I fully understand basis for the question, but taken at face value, yes, the engine speed drops a couple/few hundred rpm when I let off the throttle at highway speeds. So let's say I'm at 2500rpm cruising at constant speed - if I give more throttle to accelerate, I get to maybe 2600-2700rpm with no change in speed, and if I fully let off the throttle, it drops to maybe 2200rpm. I'd have to double check those numbers, but I spent an hour staring at the tach yesterday on my drive home.
From what I've read, lockup should engage around 2200rpm in 4th gear. I monitored pretty closely yesterday, and the TC never seemed to fully lock up (I tried many things, including accelerating from 3rd gear up to 65mph with as little throttle as possible going downhill). When cold, it seemed like it almost locked the first time I got to speed (engine speed dropped from 2200 to 2100 as I gently accelerated with constant throttle position), after that, nothing. RPM varied with throttle position in 4th gear, at a range of speeds from 45mph up to about 80mph. Transmission temp gradually and steadily increased during 45 minutes of highway and interstate cruising (with an external cooler and cold ambient temps). Reached about 185F while moving, climbed to about 210 a moment after I came to a stop. It only reaches these temps after 30min of highway driving, around town it tends to stay below 180F. Temp sensor is on the hottest part of the circuit.
If it helps, I was a Toyota transmission calibration engineer in the past, so I am pretty tuned into what lockup operation *should* feel/sound/look like... but the hardware I worked on was much more modern than the A440F (2013-2015 model years).
Also, the reason I ask - if it's something like lockup piston having a bad seal inside the T/C or the clutch being fried, replacing it will fix the problem, but if it's something else (for example
I read something about worn bushings possibly causing lockup to not work in A440F), I don't want to chase my tail with expensive and physically demanding repairs if they don't fix the problem the first time. For that level of work, I'd probably do a manual swap.