FJ62 A/C overhaul with Denso 10P15C compressor rebuild (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

PabloCruise said:
Did I miss the part about setting up the gap btwn clutch and pressure plate?
Click to expand...
Woops. I did it and forgot to add it to the writeup. I'll try to get that done today.
 
PabloCruise said:
Awesome! Thanks man, you have given me courage to rebuild mine!
Click to expand...
Good luck, and make sure you have the FSMs if you don't already.

I just added the gap check procedure to the end of post #10 also.
 
I love a detailed write up. I'd never attempt but now I see how all this works.


What temps are you guys getting out of your 60 series AC units?

I just did a new compressor and it's only blowing about 50-58*

This is driving or idle. 95* ambient

image.jpg
 
That's definitely out of spec. Depending on your relative humidity, there should be a 52 to 74 degree difference between inlet and vent temperatures with the AC running at full blast. That could mean under or over servicing, since too far in each direction can cause reduced performance. I would have a shop check it and get the charge amount within spec. Do you know if it was evacuated completely before being charged up again after you installed the new compressor?
 
Spook50 said:
I figured I would do a writeup of my overhaul of my 62's A/C for those who are able and willing to do their own. I'm not converting to R-134A since I have R12 still available and will be charging with that when I have it all back together. What I'm doing is replacing my evaporator, pressure switch, expansion valve, dryer, replacing all O-rings in the system and rebuilding my compressor.

Late last summer my A/C stopped working. The light in the button stayed on but there was no cool air at all coming from my vents. A quick check with the thermocouple on my multimeter confirmed that air wasn't being cooled whatsoever. Had I known more about the system at the time I would've first checked the pressure switch for continuity to see if there was still enough charge to close the circuit. As it was I just looked at the sight glass in the dryer and saw bubbles while it was running, which according to the FSM means not enough charge on the system. This was confirmed when I opened up the system to start this overhaul. I heard faint his for just a few seconds that confirmed that there was very little freon still in my system. Though it did indicate that there was still positive pressure, which was good in that no contaminates had any way of getting in. I would've made fixing it a winter project but I had just separated from my wife in September and she was always a control freak with our money. Now that I'm divorcing her, I have a little more freedom with MY money so I'm finally tackling it. AFTER several 100+ degree heat waves in the inland Northwest.

A list of what I ordered as far as supplies (these came from Coolstream so I'll post their item numbers too)
  • Seal kit for the whole system MT2582 $6.25
  • Compressor body seal kit MT2133 $9.90
  • Compressor Shaft seal kit MT2039 $9.99
  • Shaft seal Protector tool MT4024 $11.36
  • Clutch Pulley Bearing 23-30101 $21.14
  • 8oz. Mineral oil bottle
The mineral oil is specially formulated for R-12 air conditioning systems. This is not the same mineral oil you get at the drug store. Also remember that this is for those sticking with R-12 as their freon. If you're converting to R-134A you'll use a different oil. I don't think it's necessary to completely remove every trace of the mineral oil from the compressor if you're converting, but you'll obviously want to get as much out as you're able.

The FSM says the clutch and pulley assembly takes two bearings (and even refers to them in the plural), but this is inaccurate. There is only one bearing, which presses into the pulley piece.

The first thing I did was remove the compressor. This was somewhat straightforward, but took some working. I had to remove all three belts, the battery and tray, and the dryer in order to jockey it out of the truck. Took an hour or so of work because of trying to reach the A/C and power steering belt tensioners. My compressor is a Denso 10P15C, and should be the model used for all 60/62 and I believe most 80 series Cruisers. Other vehicles use this also, along with other Denso 10P and 10PA series compressors.

The compressor out and covered in nastiness:
View attachment 1120735

I plugged refrigerant holes with a glove and cleaned the compressor as best I could with a brass toothbrush and two cans of carb cleaner. This is a fairly sensitive part so it's important to make sure any contaminants are cleaned off before you crack it open. And make sure you have pretty much a sterile work surface.

Cleaned up and ready for breakdown:
View attachment 1120736

There's a nut at the end of the shaft. You'll need to remove it. I used a strap wrench to hold the clutch still while I broke the torque on the nut. Once that was done I was able to remove the nut and lock washer easily by hand.

Next, you'd normally need a SST to remove the clutch, but there is a trick that works as long as you're careful. It's a tight fit over the shaft so you can't just pull it off by hand. Luckily it's not super tight so my trick works (for mine anyway). I took the handle of my 3/8" drive ratchet and placed it against the front edge of the pulley. Next I took a flathead screwdriver and stuck it inside of the clutch a little ways next to one of the rivets. Gently pry up until you feel the clutch shift up a bit. Now switch to the other side and do the same thing. It doesn't take long and you'll be able to work the clutch off. Towards the end you'll have to do a little bit of prying against the friction surface of the clutch, but a piece of hard plastic would be best for this. If you're careful you can get it off with the screwdriver without marring the friction surface. I, luckily, was able to.

Prying with the screwdriver:
View attachment 1120737


The lower gap you see here is the space between the clutch and pressure plate expanding as I raise the clutch up. The upper gap is where you initially want to pry (again, gently) with the screwdriver.
View attachment 1120738

Once the clutch is off you'll want to remove the small shims that it rides on top of. Save these. They're used to set the gap between the clutch and pressure plate when you get it all back together. Now you can remove the snap ring holding the pulley in place. Next step is removing the key. Mine was a little stuck (moreso than I could get at with needle nose pliers), so I took a small flathead screwdriver and gently tapped it down between the key and the shaft. The key popped right out.


Removing the key. I had already gotten the stator (coil) off and cleaned it but I set it back in place for the sake of the pictures:
View attachment 1120739
Click to expand...

Awesome write-up, thanks! I plan to do mine when I have time one day, I bought a rebuilt unit from California for the meantime.
Is the tool MT4024 or MT4025? All I see on Coolstream's website is MT4025, unless I missed it...
Tools
 
Has this system been charged and tested? I am debating weather or not to buy the remanned compressor from Coolstream, or to try to follow your lead. Most excellent write-up BTW. Thank You.
 
Spook50 said:
That's definitely out of spec. Depending on your relative humidity, there should be a 52 to 74 degree difference between inlet and vent temperatures with the AC running at full blast. That could mean under or over servicing, since too far in each direction can cause reduced performance. I would have a shop check it and get the charge amount within spec. Do you know if it was evacuated completely before being charged up again after you installed the new compressor?
Click to expand...

Hey, did you ever get this thing charged and tried out? Curious if trying to rebuild the compressor will be worth the time/effort. TY
 
I did actually, and it works great. Once summer ended I had a bunch of stuff pile up and completely forgot about the writeup. I'll have to finish it soon.
 
The A/C on my '93 FZJ80 (R12 system) wasn't working, so I decided to convert to r134a. I rinsed out all the old mineral oil, changed all the O-rings, and replaced the dryer. Converted the schrader valves on the compressor to r134a quick connects. I purchased a manifold, fill valve, PAG oil, and 12oz cans of Dupont r134a off Amazon. Put in some PAG oil and pulled a vacuum using a Harbor Freight vacuum pump that uses your compressor (already had that). After making sure it held a vacuum for an hour, I charged the system with r134a. The thing works awesome. It gets super cold (low 30's from the vent). When I get the 60 running again, I'm doing the same thing on it. I've already used the equipment again to fix a friends A/C. Good tools to have.
 
alright, SWEET! was going to buy a remanned unit from Coolstream, but the dog took all my cruiser monies. really need to have functional AC this year, so I guess I'll order the bearings and compressor seal kit. Thanks for the TECH @Spook50!!!
 
Cruzerman, I am in the process of changing my 1987 FJ60 over to R134A. Do you recall how much freon you put in the system?
Thanks in advance for your assistance.
SSyzdek TLCA #3829 1979 FJ40; 1987 FJ60 and 1997 4Runner
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

SSWEST
Aircon manifold DENSO 471-0204
Replies
0
Views
422
SSWEST
SSWEST
C
HJ60 Overhaul, rebuild and engine swap
Replies
10
Views
2K
kirvesmies
K
atlshaun
‘89 FJ62 Idle issue after transfer case rebuild
2
Replies
22
Views
2K
atlshaun
atlshaun
F
Engine overhaul or upgrade?
Replies
8
Views
1K
Godwin
Godwin

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 2 (members: 0, guests: 2)

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom