FJ62 3F to Ford “Barra” Swap (5 Viewers)

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So much awesome.
Youre very neat with the install too, looks beyond factory.
Reminds me of an aircraft engineer I knew in Canberra. Very meticulous. Not a self tapper in sight (or any alloy/soft metal fastener)
Hahaha, not in sight, yes, I do have a few hiding though 😁. You guessed the engineering heart right ...
 
Finished the air intake today, was a bit easier than I had imagined. I used some hardboard to draw the routing with dimensions and took that to an auto shop. As you can see, I opted to keep the original Toyota coupler that attaches to the air filter, the main reason being that it contained an air swirler thingy, so keeping things as close to stock as possible. A simple bulkhead with some Sikaflex solved connecting the fresh air intake that will flush the fuel vapour from the crankcase back to the PCV valve / engine.
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I like the red x a buddy of mine that I built a big ass lifted Ford f250 has a decal that goes over his Ford oval logo that says **** instead of ford.
 
Meanwhile, as the wiring job is looming on the horizon and this is going to be my first, I’ve started doing some research in the evening hours …
I couldn’t for the life of me get my head around the starting circuit, despite access to wiring diagrams. Initially, I missed the fact that the connector of the ignition barrel loom has different wire colours on either side. When I found that, the pieces of the puzzle fell in place :). For my own memory as well as posterity’s sake, I am reporting what I found:
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What do you need to modify on the starting circuit? On the a originally manual transmission truck the starter solenoid wire in the engine will have 12v with the key in the start position.
 
What do you need to modify on the starting circuit? On the a originally manual transmission truck the starter solenoid wire in the engine will have 12v with the key in the start position.
Not modifying, just working out the wiring so I can then work out how to mate the Ford wiring loom with the Toyota bits.

I only posted the above because my diagrams don’t show the ignition loom connector where two wires change colour, which confused me. I now understand this part and wanted to share to avoid maybe someone else getting equally confused.
 
Not modifying, just working out the wiring so I can then work out how to mate the Ford wiring loom with the Toyota bits.

I only posted the above because my diagrams don’t show the ignition loom connector where two wires change colour, which confused me. I now understand this part and wanted to share to avoid maybe someone else getting equally confused.

That’s because you are looking at the ignition switch which is a separate device from the main harness/loom - it is very common for switches/devices to have different wire colors then what is on the schematic for the vehicle wire loom.
 
That’s because you are looking at the ignition switch which is a separate device from the main harness/loom - it is very common for switches/devices to have different wire colors then what is on the schematic for the vehicle wire loom.
So I found out 😂, learned something again!
 
Today I finished mounting the gas pedal / hand throttle combination. The bracket for the pedal mounts to the two original points in the firewall and I made a third point on the other side to avoid twisting. The Toyota pedal mechanism fits on top and is now hand throttle only. I felt a bit sad to cut the pad off the pedal and wrangle the rod into a different shape, but the Toyota mechanism survived and gets to live another life! Pretty stoked with the result.
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So y’all aren’t thinking I’ve fallen off a cliff ;)
Since the last post I spent a lot of time sorting the wiring. Way more time consuming than anticipated but I hope the time invested will pay off. Sorted most of what is now obsolete (mostly vacuum, emission, ignition and tcase related), figured out what’s still needed, mapped out what would go where in the engine bay, redid most of the earth wiring and main power supply circuits, extended the Ford harness wires for where they need to go, connect new and old wires and put it all place provisionally, for the big test in a couple of weeks …
Here’s some pictures of the chaos along the way. If people are interested in more details, I’m happy to write some up, just let me know.
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Keen to see how you go with wiring up the shifter.
I can tell you how I’ve wired it up, but the proof is in the pudding (can’t test until driving) …

So, the ZF transmission uses 3 switches to ground for the M-gate and the shift+ and shift-. The Lokar shifter comes with coloured wiring so you can work out which wire to use for the switch to ground:
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For my shifter, this worked out to:
M-gate switch:
Black goes to ground (com)
Red goes to transmission plug pin 1 for m-gate (blue wire)
Blue is not used (continuity when in Drive, not required)

Upshift switch:
Black goes to ground (com)
Blue goes to transmission plug pin 5 for tip+ (grey-red wire)
Red is not used

Downshift switch:
Black goes to ground (com)
Blue goes to transmission plug pin 4 for tip- (brown-white wire)
Red is not used

The wires in brackets are the Ford /OEM colours. Here you can see how it comes together:
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Hope that helps.
 
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