I like the white on the 40,Mike
FJ60 Wheels
- Thread starter kvanoort
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Texican, Interesting about the HCL. I might have to try that. I have a set of 5 chromies in my crawl space I am planning on doing that to for my 40 soon.
I love the look of the white OEM wagon wheels on the 40s
I love the look of the white OEM wagon wheels on the 40s
I say off white as well. Thanks Texican for the idea I will be giving it a try.
Sorry to hijack but are you all going to paint the entire rim? In the Cool Cruiser pic it looks as if the face of the rim is white and the inside (where the tire would cover) is black. Any thoughts?
- Thread starter
- #25
The CCOT wheels are OEM and I'm guessing the factory painted the entire wheel with black primer then painted the visible areas cygnus white. I think I'll just have the entire rim powder coated cygnus white. I'll snap a picture of the sandblasted wheels when I pick them up this week.
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Thanks Kvanoort! Thats what I figured and what I plan to do.
- Thread starter
- #27
Here are a couple pics of the de-blinged wheels after sandblasting. Does anyone have a recommendation for prepping the wheels prior to powder coating?
Texican
s-Moderator
I've always left that up to my Powder Coater, he had one wheel once that did not stick in the lil place where the center and rim met, on a set of steelies, he redid it, said there was oil or sumthin in there
I am so wanting to see what those look like finished! 
- Thread starter
- #30
Wheels are back from the powder coater. To try and match the OEM color, I went with Cardinal brand powder coating #:A-4108-BG01. They turned out great with the exception of the little bubbles between the center hub section and the outer wheel. Powder coater said it happens all the time and there isn't anything he can do about it. The bubbles are caused by rust and other chemicals between the two pieces that when heated creates a gas that escapes and makes the coating bubble out. He gave me some matching spray paint to use as touch up to fill in the bubbles. I'll spray the touch up paint in a container and use a fine tipped brush to fill in the bubbles. Has anyone else had a similar experience? Here are a few photos:
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Texican
s-Moderator
That is exactly what one of my wheels did, my guy did not try to explain, just did that wheel over....now I took them to him natural, old paint rust etc, and paid him $25 per wheel for prep
Butch
Butch
I used this thread for inspiration, so I thought I should post my results. I sandblasted my rims, put on 2 coats of primer, 2 color coats of Hammerite Paint. The Hammerite paint gives just a little bit of texture, which I like. By the way both the primer and the paint were both rattle can and they turned out really well. I love my over all results.
macneill
Rollin’ on 33s
Wow, these look great. Mine are mildly rusted, but the PC route looks like a good way to go!
little bubbles
The tiny bubbles are not from oil/residue. They are caused by something called the 'Faraday Cage' effect. To summarize, the wheel has to be given a static charge to make the powder stick before baking. In a tight corner, there are 2 opposing surfaces facing somewhat towards each other, canceling each other out. (Think pos-pos or neg-neg magnetic poles). It forms an arc, where the powder is repelled. There are a couple ways that a good powder-coater will mitigate this. First, there are a number of newer powders which are finer ground to help avoid or minimize the problem. The other is to preheat the wheel just before spraying the powder, so that the blowing-in will make it enter the nooks and crannies, and the heat will fuse the powder to the metal.
If your shop seems intrigued about these solutions, he probably hasn't used them. It's up to you if you want to provide him your wheels to practice on.
Of course, if the wheels aren't prepped properly, it may be oil/residue bubbling out. Either way, he ain't doing the job right.
/Kurt
The tiny bubbles are not from oil/residue. They are caused by something called the 'Faraday Cage' effect. To summarize, the wheel has to be given a static charge to make the powder stick before baking. In a tight corner, there are 2 opposing surfaces facing somewhat towards each other, canceling each other out. (Think pos-pos or neg-neg magnetic poles). It forms an arc, where the powder is repelled. There are a couple ways that a good powder-coater will mitigate this. First, there are a number of newer powders which are finer ground to help avoid or minimize the problem. The other is to preheat the wheel just before spraying the powder, so that the blowing-in will make it enter the nooks and crannies, and the heat will fuse the powder to the metal.
If your shop seems intrigued about these solutions, he probably hasn't used them. It's up to you if you want to provide him your wheels to practice on.
Of course, if the wheels aren't prepped properly, it may be oil/residue bubbling out. Either way, he ain't doing the job right.
/Kurt
