In search of a different pitman arm for my 40 I thought I would try something different. I had an fj55 steering arm handy. Now the only problem is that It won't pass under the frame. Do you all see any problems running the pitman like this? The pics are of the box lock out left and lock out right.
I would use either a FJ60 arm, or a xover mini-truck arm. Also, you can tip the rear of the box up and see if the are clears. Make sure you leave enough room for the nut on top.
Thanks Mace, I wasn't sure. Could I heat the arm and reverse the angle of the pitman arm with out fatiguing the arm or would I be better off running the 60 arm.
There's no way you can run the arm offset to the side like that The alignment of the pittman are is not just a "whatever" kind of thing.
If you want to use that arm, just heat it and bend it.
I normally use FJ40 arms in this conversion. Cut them and rotate one end 180 degress and then weld it all back together.
THis lets you use the FJ40 draglink and relay rod to make a new draglink of the appropriate length. Because of the long run that this rod has, I prefer to reinforce it too.
Just heat the 60 arm and bend it. Allow to cool slowly, do not quench in water or it will become brittle.
Pic is of Scott Simmons's bitchin' FJ40 aka "Rusty Dog". Everything mechanical is new (or rebuilt) on this truck, it's really sweet - dual tcase, SOA, elocker up front, detroit in the rear, FF rear, and of course the FJ60 PS conversion.
Yes, the frame has both sleeves of heavy wall DOM and a 1/4" gusset plate on the inside of the frame rail. This mounting method is stronger than OE... then, it has to be with the way this truck will be used.
In this pic you can see the plate, and also the Borgeson telescoping steering shaft. I prefer to use the telescoping shafts on our installs - yes, Borgeson is high end, but the quality is excellent and running a telescoping shaft reduces the liklihood of eating the steering wheel for breakfast in the unlikely event of a hard front end collision. Besides, at our price the complete assembled shaft doesn't cost much more than just buying the u-joints and a section of cold rolled 3/4" rod.
"You will also notice in these photos that it is required to take your truck to IPOR with the most silt you can from the last trail ride. This build performed perfectly on it's first time on the trail, then 4 days of being parked on my flat drive it decided to take a joy ride by itself down my back yard. Now Lance was tasked to put another axle under the front and new spring mounts on the frame from the damage. It will be off to GSMTR to see how it does where the skinny pedal is as important as the crawler. This build and work at IPOR is amazing and to have the whole truck basically on the floor of the shop and then have no issues on the trail is something its first time out is a good showing of IPOR's attention to detail.