fj60 power steering for pigs

[RUSH55]

FC did the Scout power steering conversion for me. The diagonal cross-brace (left frame to front crossmember) was included in the deal. Not an optional extra. Granted, an FJ60 box puts out less torque than a Scoutbox, but it's real cheap insurance. Stout frame or not, we've seen frames twisted from power steering boxes. If you're going to do power steering, might as well do it right. Bent/twisted frames are more easily prevented than corrected... You can almost see the leading edge of the brace in pic 2...I gotta get a new camera







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Never saw this cross brace mentioned before on the Scout PS conversion.
The box never bent my frame. My frame has cracked in several places on both sides from what I contribute to bad suspension geometry and a few cases of harsh death-wobble.
I’m currently in a state of rebuild with the pig, which includes plans for custom front springs, repairing cracks and fishplating. I may go ahead and throw this x-piece in as well.
Has anyone else installed a steering x-brace after installing a FJ60 or Scout steering box?

 

[scrapdaddy]

I fish plated both sides of the frame and called it good, thinking that would be plenty of beef.

EDIT....I also sleeved the mounting holes with DOM tubing.

 

[RUSH55]

I did mine too, but only about an 8” - 10” long plate on each side, 1/4” thick.

 

[RUSH55]

That is a very clean job right there @Lil'John , thank you for posting!

Who built the steering shaft?

 

[wngrog]

Those are Flaming River parts. In hindsight I would have powder coated the shaft itself. Since those pictures, it has rusted somewhat badly.

But has it actually steered the vehicle?

This is always the queTion for Lil’John

 

[RUSH55]

So, I have a bit of a curiosity concerning the space between the spring and the pitman arm on a 55 with a spring over and either a 60 or Scout steering box.
Been looking at this recently because I’ve been mulling over doing an SOA but have a Scout box - plenty of room SUA.
More concerned about what the spacing is at full stuff.

 

[wngrog]

If you go SOA make it as low as possible. Piggies are so top heavy.

 

[RUSH55]

Okay NG

 

[scrapdaddy]

I believe Lil' John had to do some notching to make that work. He'll correct me here shortly.

 

[wngrog]

SOA with stock axles is my concern on a pig. Adding spacers and wider tires and wheels helps some but that kills the steering.

Im interested in the 60 box setup for mine. Subscribed. Sorry for the derail.

 

[J Mack]

because I’ve been mulling over doing an SOA

Are you thinking about going to 37" tires?

 

[RUSH55]

Are you thinking about going to 37" tires?

Meh, not really. I think 35” is as tall as I need to go. My biggest fascinations with SOA are the softer ride quality and the cleaner, tighter position of the springs (not slung down so far), as well as the simplicity of height adjustment.
I thought I found a great solution for keeping an SOA low-pro with an alternative spring design, but then I noticed that it looked like there would be a probability of interference with the spring and pitman arm, pretty much exactly like what Lil’ John dealt with.
I know with a higher sitting SOA, you have enough spring headroom that you don’t need to worry about it.

 

[RUSH55]

I realized a few moments ago that I don’t need an SOA that bad.

 

[Napster]

I put a 60 box on mine, but I have not finished so I don't know if it works. Did a tubing shock tower for the drivers side. Here is a link to the build thread.
A pig out of hand is worth 2...

 

[RUSH55]

Nice job @Napster !

 

[RUSH55]

Here is somewhat of a pic of my Scout steering box. The bolt holes are sleeved and there are some minimal 1/4” plates inside and out. Trying to remember... I think the pitman arm is a late 70’s early 80’s Jeep Cherokee - pretty flat. I think it’s setup about as high as it can go without any sort of frame notching.

 

[Ol Yeller]

 

[fre55h]

HJ60 Power Steering for comparison .

 

[RUSH55]

Here is how I did the steering “brace” on mine using 2” square tubing. A little interesting getting the angles correct on each end because of the multiple planes you have to deal with.

 

[Ry24000]

Unfortunately distracted by house projects, but I finally finished mounting the box and shortening the rods so I can move it around soon.

I sleeved the frame like IPOR did, but my location is different. I tried to put the box about where it is on the fj60, so the end of the pitman arm is not way out in front of the tie rod (pic 1). It's a little farther than on a stock fj60, but it fit okay with the pto and motor mounts. Two of the sleeves are behind the motor mount bracket, so they weren't so friendly to weld, but they're done.

My steering shaft is a hybrid of the fj-60 shaft and the fj-55 shaft. IIRC, I used the upper part of the fj-60 shaft (male end of splines) attached to the column with the fj-55 u-joint yoke and the fj-55 female end. I shortened the shaft about 2", sleeved it, and rewelded.

I'm going to be putting fj-60 knuckles/disks on it, so I chose to use all fj-60 parts, for now at least. I shortened the fj-60 drag link just over 2", sleeved and welded and I will do the same for the tie rod when I get the brakes done (2.5" shorter). Maybe I'll buy new rods from Marlin when I have more money, but for now that's how it will be.
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I'm digging up an old one here, sorry. How did this work out for you with the box positioned with the mounting bolts split between the engine mount? Seems like the most natural spot. When cycling and suspension articulating did you find any interference brtween the tie rod and drag link?
This thread is the best one I finally found about 60 power steering. Funny it does not come up with a search. I found it in the sticky. Why I never look there first Other threads had engine conversions or mounted the pump way too far forward for my liking. This position with the two rearward mounting bolts directly under the engine mount was the first place my gut told me, but I guess I was looking for some justification from the Forum! Shock hoops for sure in this position.