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i didnt use any bracing or plating on mine, the 55 frame is everybit stout as the 60 frame. so far i have had no problems, no cracks and no loose bolts, lets hope it stays that way. a buddy of mine put scout power on his 55, he developed a crack but the scout only mounts with 3 bolts, maybe thats the difference?
Interesting about the twisted frame, I hadn't given that much thought. I guess that's the benefit of push/pull steering mounted there. FJ60 frames are fully boxed and super stout, I've never see a cross brace on one. It might be worthwhile to consider a support such as you described, though. There are similar (in function and mounting location) aftermarket supports made for crack-prone GM truck frames. Might be worth comparing, probably made by Off-Road Unlimited or Off-Road Design. Hmm, how to build it around the pto driveshaft....
Seems like the motor would be a fairly effective crossmember, too, but maybe there's too much flex in the motor mounts.
I saw a FJ55 once out of the corner of my eye that appeared to be very clean, so I doubled back and hopped out to take a look. Real clean truck except the driver's side frame rail was twisted...The owner had installed a scout II box on it and it appeared to have just repeatedly stressed and tweaked the frame where the box was mounted,untill it stayed that way...(when I saw it,it was only sitting on 33inch tires)
When I installed the 60 box on mine, I had this in the back of my head. There is no gusset or crossmember in the section of frame where the box needs to be mounted...So I started thinking about maybe running a brace from the front crossmember(diag.) to the inside of the rail, right behind the box. I looked through a few service manuals, and came across a diagram of a 60 series' frame that appeared to show the exact same bracing I was considering building.
I am not really familiar with the 60 series, but got the impression from one of your posts that you might be. Have you ever seen anything like this on one? Just kind of curious because the 55 and 60 series frame diagrams looked very similar, and thought maybe Toyota threw in a gusset to keep the frame straight??
FC did the Scout power steering conversion for me. The diagonal cross-brace (left frame to front crossmember) was included in the deal. Not an optional extra. Granted, an FJ60 box puts out less torque than a Scoutbox, but it's real cheap insurance. Stout frame or not, we've seen frames twisted from power steering boxes. If you're going to do power steering, might as well do it right. Bent/twisted frames are more easily prevented than corrected... You can almost see the leading edge of the brace in pic 2...I gotta get a new camera
Wanted to post the Pic's of the powersteering completed along with the steering shaft. This is the IPOR setup with a Borgsen steering shaft.
Lou
Borgeson shaft mates to 55 and 60 splines? What app? Why not use 60 series shaft?
Also, where can I see pics of your bumpers?
I searched and found just a couple threads, but nothing very detailed. I want to put 60 ps on my 55, but want to make sure I'm prepared. Engine is out, so I figure it's a good time to do it. Anyone have a detailed writeup and/or pics?
Mine will be 2f powered and sprung *under*. Stock suspension now, hope for custom springs down the road, still SUA, and 33s or 35s.
What parts do I need? I have an '83 fj60 box, column, shaft, pitman arm, hoses. I think I gave away the fj60 drag link. I'm using fj-60 knuckles for disk brake conversion, but have '79 fj-40/55 steering arms to retain the fj-40/55 tie rod. I could go with the 60 arms and shorten a 60 tie rod if it's better to fit the 60 drag link?
What about shock towers? Are F-250 towers the standard? Anyone have a p/n or model year to ask for?
I'm swapping in an fj-60 2f and have the stock p/s pump. Should I keep it or go ahead and use a saginaw pump?
Any other advice or resources?
thanks,