fj60 power steering for pigs (1 Viewer)

[2manycruisers]

Scouthead, did you locate your steering box using one of the original shock tower bolts (the lower right steering box bolt in your pics above)? or is that bolt in between the original two? Trying to figure out how close to allow the tie rod and drag link to get.
thanks

I'ts good to hear that it's easy to replace the seals on a 60 box...mine is only leaking from the seal on the spud-shaft, so I'm hoping I can replace It without complete disassembly.
I missed the part about your FJ40 arms being '79 arms...will these fit on the 60 knuckles, and have the FJ55 sized taper for your tie-rod? If so, the hibred or custom dragllink starts to look pretty easy(and leave the tie-rod)...Is there some reason you can't just bolt the 60s spindles onto the 55s knuckles and keep the stock steering arms/tie-rod?? Seems like the main reason people want the 60 knuckles(besides a disc brake conversion) is to allow for high-steer arms, and you plan on staying spring under anyways, right?


These pics are before both the leak and getting a stabilizer sqeezed in there...

 

[scouthead]

I placed the box with the arch of the pitman arm over the tie-rod, so that the tie-rod wouldn't hit the end of the sector shaft if the axle moved up far enough. The top rear hole drilled for the box goes right between the sides of the motor mounts, and the bolt has to go through from the outside, and the nut is inside the mount. I welded a small plate to the inside of the rail, because one of the front holes went right between two existing holes. I may have also drilled through a nut that was welded to the inside of the frame somewhere...
I built the shock mount so it could be pushed right up against the box, and it leans forward positioning the top of the shock very close to where it's stock location(maybe 1/2 inch outboard) was. It reused the rear two holes on the top of the frame, and one or two of the ones on the side. Next time I'll just weld something to the frame but I was thinking about ease of removal(just in case).
I also drilled out the holes on the box(just a little) so that I could use 1/2inch hardware instead of $metric$.

 

[scouthead]

With regards to how close the tie-rod and draglink are...There's about twice the clearance the stock setup had ( you could see where the stock setup barely rubbed when the truck got bounced hard).

It all kind of worked like the box had been designed for a Landcruiser wagon!

 

[2manycruisers]

Thanks. I think I have mine where I want it after some cycling and comparing to stock fj60.

Do you or anyone else know if the tie rod ends and drag link ends for fj-60s have the same taper? i.e. Can I use fj60 tie rod end in the pitman arm? See any benefit to one over the other--the regular rod ends or the multi-piece ones used on the drag link? Does one allow more angularity or anything?

 

[scottryana]

Brace

I used a diagnal brace, but it was for my panhard mount. I am hoping that it will also work to tie the 2 frame rails together and provide some strength benifit for the 60 steering box. I have seen some nice plates that are welded to the frame with sleeved bolt holes. I didn't take the time nor did Ihave the room with the coilover towers to plate the frame. If anyone has any good photos of 55 frames failing with 60 steering boxes I would love to see them.... Maybe if you are going to be using large 37"+ tires hydro assist is a must?

Ryan

I saw a FJ55 once out of the corner of my eye that appeared to be very clean, so I doubled back and hopped out to take a look. Real clean truck except the driver's side frame rail was twisted...The owner had installed a scout II box on it and it appeared to have just repeatedly stressed and tweaked the frame where the box was mounted,untill it stayed that way...(when I saw it,it was only sitting on 33inch tires)
When I installed the 60 box on mine, I had this in the back of my head. There is no gusset or crossmember in the section of frame where the box needs to be mounted...So I started thinking about maybe running a brace from the front crossmember(diag.) to the inside of the rail, right behind the box. I looked through a few service manuals, and came across a diagram of a 60 series' frame that appeared to show the exact same bracing I was considering building.
I am not really familiar with the 60 series, but got the impression from one of your posts that you might be. Have you ever seen anything like this on one? Just kind of curious because the 55 and 60 series frame diagrams looked very similar, and thought maybe Toyota threw in a gusset to keep the frame straight??

 

[scouthead]

I'm not sure what the deal is with the multi piece rod ends...I have one on my 55's setup, but I'm going to replace it with a regular rod end the next time I get into it. I think they are just meant to be adjustable/rebuildable, but I think they must add a bit of play, when the springs inside them wear, and the only two I've seen taken apart, were too rusted up to be easily(fully) disasembled.

Scottryana, that's some good cruiser porn right there...I have 31" tires with my FJ60 box and can't imagine running 35" without hydroassist. Just doesn't seem like the box has the same assisting power as a saginaw box. Fine for smaller tires though.

 

[2manycruisers]

Have you compared the rod ends? I assume they have the same taper and big/little dimensions, but want to be sure. If I have to do custom rods, I might as well use regular rod ends if they are the same.

A saginaw pump with the fj60 box moves big tires okay. I ran Dana 60s with Detroit Lockers and 36" Swampers under an fj-60 and it worked well. Sometimes the bind of the Detroit would make it hard to turn, but usually a little on/off throttle to unlock it would allow me to turn it.

I'm not sure what the deal is with the multi piece rod ends...I have one on my 55's setup, but I'm going to replace it with a regular rod end the next time I get into it. I think they are just meant to be adjustable/rebuildable, but I think they must add a bit of play, when the springs inside them wear, and the only two I've seen taken apart, were too rusted up to be easily(fully) disasembled.

Scottryana, that's some good cruiser porn right there...I have 31" tires with my FJ60 box and can't imagine running 35" without hydroassist. Just doesn't seem like the box has the same assisting power as a saginaw box. Fine for smaller tires though.

 

[RHINO]

...I have 31" tires with my FJ60 box and can't imagine running 35" without hydroassist. Just doesn't seem like the box has the same assisting power as a saginaw box. Fine for smaller tires though.

i run 36" and dont have any complaints.

 

[scouthead]

I don't have any fj60(non multi-piece rod) ends to compare to the one hanging off my pitman arm, but when I was at Specter Offroad a while back, I was thinking of picking up a few. They had boxes full of used rod ends. All of them appeared to have the same taper...all larger than my stock FJ55 ends.

Maybe I'll try a saginaw pump on my setup, when I lift it and put on some bigger rubber. Or maybe I'll try to find a smaller pulley for my pump...I used a minitruck pump(remote reservoir) so I could cram it in with the smog pump and emission crap.

 

[2manycruisers]

Don't bother picking up the rod ends. I pulled a tie rod off a 62 axle last night and the drag link is much larger than the tie rod end. The small d of the taper on the drag link is bigger than the big D of the taper on the rod end.

 

[Luke111]

FJ60 Powersteering

Here's the power steering Iron Pig Offroad did on my 55

Lou

 

[2manycruisers]

more pics please. Can you show one of the alignment of the tie rod and drag link with the wheels straight? What rod end did he use at the pitman? How is the pitman arm turned that far (perp to the frame)? How did he keep the stock shock mount?

 

[nuclearlemon]

while we're asking questions, is the frame sleeved where the bolts are going through...it looks like it might be.

 

[Luke111]

info

The rod and drag link are not completed, this set up was on the truck and was connected so they could move the truck down the street to the new shop. The frame is not sleeved. I'll post those pic's when it's done. Truth is , any tech question like shock mount position etc.. I'am not the guy but Lance could explain those details. There are a few post that have mention Iron Pig Power Steering and the fact that Lance has wheeled quite a few pigs I would have to say its time and trail tested. Looking at the second photo the vertical weld on the frame behind the pitman is an engine bracket, not sure if the answers that sleeved question.

Lou

 

[scottryana]

Sleeved Frame

Lou,

I hope you don't mind, me helping out with the question. The mounting holes for your 60 box are sleeved. If you look closely at the second photo you can see that the washers and nuts sit off the frame on small pieces of tube. When you sleeve the frame you over drill the holes and then insert and weld a piece of tube so that when you tighten the bolts it is trying to compress the tube not crushing the frame. I don't mean to condradict you, but when I talked to Lance he told me he wouldn't do power steering conversion without sleeving the frame.

Ryan.

The rod and drag link are not completed, this set up was on the truck and was connected so they could move the truck down the street to the new shop. The frame is not sleeved. I'll post those pic's when it's done. Truth is , any tech question like shock mount position etc.. I'am not the guy but Lance could explain those details. There are a few post that have mention Iron Pig Power Steering and the fact that Lance has wheeled quite a few pigs I would have to say its time and trail tested. Looking at the second photo the vertical weld on the frame behind the pitman is an engine bracket, not sure if the answers the sleeved question.

Lou

 

[clemson55]

Frame definitely appears to be sleeved.

 

[Luke111]

Ryan ,thanks for clearing that up! I'll stick to designing bumpers!


Lou

 

[scottryana]

Lou,

Hopefully you will have some new photos to post soon. While I was at Ironpig today I saw your freshly powdercoated bumpers. They look great. It is cool to see that you choose grey instead of the normal black. While I was there they didn't have time to get them installed or I would have snapped some photos! The back bumper looks good, but I can't wait to see that custom front bumper installed.

Ryan.

 

[2manycruisers]

The IPOR box location didn't work for me. The mounting bolts/sleeves would have interfered or almost interfered with the stock motor mount bracket and would have also interfered with the carrier bearing support for the pto driveshaft, so I moved it rearward about 2" to avoid them both. I'll get pics when I get more done.

 

[handcannon]

scouthead

If you want a sag pump with remote reservoir get one off a Chev Astro.