FJ60 Oil Pressure Sending Unit Question

[dblake]

The Roaming Pressure Gauge.

I've got an 86 60 series 2H.

The oil pressure gauge goes up when the car is braking or pointing downhill. It will go up to about 8/10 of the range. The gauge goes down almost to the bottom (about 1/10) when the car is accelerating or pointing uphill.

Turning corners has no effect. Other electrics in the car have no effect. No other gauges roam around.

The roaming is gradual and can take 20 seconds to go from one extreme to the other.

The oil's just been changed. I've bought the truck a week ago. There are no leaks.

Any ideas.

David

 

[WckedMidas]

i installed oil pressure guage this week on my 62 with 255,000 miles on it pretty shore all original miles to. Anyways it averages like 40 psi at red lights and 50 in neutral or while driveing .

 

[baloo]

Get a real gauge and tee into the oil sender. The real gauge will tell you whats up, you can compare that o your electric gauge. Every LC I have had did different things with the stock gauges. My current FJ 62 the oil and the temp are hyper, they move all over the normal range, but the mechanical gauges tell me everything is good. My .02

 

[Heartworm]

plumber's tape

I had a mechanic use teflon plumber's tape on the threads when he put the gauge into the block. He said it was leaking before. The oil pressure reading would drop from 2/3 to about 1/3 after some highway driving. I finally figured out that the plumber's tape was changing the grounding of the unit. Getting rid of the plumber's tape solved it. Just a thought for others.

 

[WckedMidas]

I bought a sunproguage cluster came with
temp
oil
and volt guages
payed 27 bucks for it. Only problem was the screw in piece for the oilpressure unit was slightly difrent so we sanded the threads down alittle and got it to screw in just fine. When we took my original sending unit out it was leaking oil around the tit that the wire conects.

Now i have a question what temp should my motor be running at.I cant get it over 175 to 180 heaters working but not like i want it to. Im guessing i got a 165 electric thremostate can i pick a 180 temp one up for the winter? I did somemild rock crawling all day sunday and engine temp never went above 180 actualy stayed a hair under it

 

[ronbragg]

HJ60 Oil pressure sensor problem

Hi,

I have an '82 HJ60 ( 2H )

While trying to remove my starter motor I have broken off a wire from somewhere & my oil pressure gauge is now dead.

The wire is yellow/black & in a black sheathing that dissappears into a black ribbed tubing. Another yellow/black wire comes out of the ribbed tubing at the same place and connects via spade clip to a sort of nut/stud with an off centre spade.

Can anyone tell me what my loose wire should be attached to?

Any help much appreciated.

 

[Rob Faucett]

My oil pressure gauge reads below the 1/3 mark. Full of oil, zero leaks and runs well. Does this indicate a problem? 124,000 miles.

 

[Pighead]

Do not panic until you check the oil pressure with a real gauge...factory gauges are notoriously inaccurate and slow to respond to changes. I tee'd in an Autometer mechanical gauge at the oil cooler so I can look at both gauges. I don't bother with the stock gauge anymore...

My oil pressure gauge reads below the 1/3 mark. Full of oil, zero leaks and runs well. Does this indicate a problem? 124,000 miles.

 

[forestdan7]

x2 on not worrying till you know the real numbers.

My dash gauge was fried, and so was the sending unit. Old reading was pegged at the top. Replaced sender, new reading below the bottom. Really good numbers off the mechanical gauge. Got a used dash gauge and changed it out, and now it sits about 2/3, with slight up and down with temperature and RPMs.

With 124,000 miles, unless the oil has never been changed, your pressure is probably okay. But I'd definitely check it mechanically.

 

[Rob Faucett]

Great, thanks!! Will check directly with a real gauge. Pretend that I all I know is where the dip stick is and what oil looks like. And now thanks to you guys I know I need an Autometer. What do I do!?

 

[Pighead]

There are a few different options available. I think you can get a mechanical gauge or an electrical gauge. And you can get a hand-held gauge or a dash mount gauge. Some people even mount a gauge in the engine compartment...
I opted for a dash mounted, mechanical gauge. I bought a length of the stainless braided oil line with the ends already on, a brass T from the hardware store and a tap (think it's 1/8 NPT?). Found the stock oil pressure sender and removed it from the oil cooler. Tapped that hole for the T, (some people use fancy adapters), and plumbed in the oil line and the stock sender. Ran that oil line into the cab and into the back of the gauge. I even ran some wire so that the gauge lights up at night!
Mines a little different, being a 55, but same engine and oilcooler and stuff.
One thing...if you get the stainless hose instead of the plastic hose (which I didn't like the thought of that plastic hose melting) DO NOT let that metal hose bump into ANYTHING that has 12 volts running through it...like your starter terminals. Big spark, instant oil leak.

 

[lehiguy]

Previous owner did the V8 conversion and oil pressure gauge has never worked. It seems like I heard that if I put the Toyota sender in (supposedly is same size and thread pattern) it would work. Can anyone verify this?

Thanks!

Brad

That's what I did, it will fit into any pipe thread of the same size. I had to use a riser on the back of the Chevy block because of the large diameter of the Toyota sending unit, but it works just fine.

 

[Rob Faucett]

Got it. I'll try to get to that this weekend. Really appreciate your help.

 

[lehiguy]

Well, just to add to the fun - mine has me a *little* concerned. When I get up to freeway speeds, it tends to sit at about 1/3. If I let off of the gas pedal, the pressure goes up. It's been this way since I put the new engine in a couple of years go. But since then, the car has mostly been garaged. Now that it's actually back on the road (had to put in a new brake power booster among other things), and I am driving it a minimum of two hours a day, I need to know if I should be "concerned" or just "bugged" by this.

Any ideas and/or suggestions?



Thanks.

Your post does cause me some concern for you and I will tell you why. First, I rebuilt a 2F and used a new, aftermarker oil pump. What I found out later, after watching my oil pressure do what you're describing, is that the stupid new pump had two major issues. First, and most critical, it had inadequate clearance with the bottom of the pan and was starving. Second, the spring which controlled the blow off valve was weak. I removed the offender, had a machinist cut the pickup tube down to size and reweld it, and I shimmed the spring in the blow off valve. Problem solved. If you are showing less pressure at cruise than you are at idle, you have one or both of these problems. A friend of mine had the identical problem after a rebuild. I suspect that his was caused by the same thing. For the record, an experienced engine builder told me that there should be 1/4" of clearance between the pickup and the pan PLUS THE GASKET!!! That should equate into something like 3/8 of an inch or a bit more. Since these engines hold a crazy amount of oil, I would go to 1/2 inch of total clearance. I would not have had this issue if I had spent the extra bucks for the Toyota pump. It is also possible to open up the old pump, reverse the gears, and run it again. I would have been better off!

 

[Trollhole]

Your post does cause me some concern for you and I will tell you why. First, I rebuilt a 2F and used a new, aftermarker oil pump. What I found out later, after watching my oil pressure do what you're describing, is that the stupid new pump had two major issues. First, and most critical, it had inadequate clearance with the bottom of the pan and was starving. Second, the spring which controlled the blow off valve was weak. I removed the offender, had a machinist cut the pickup tube down to size and reweld it, and I shimmed the spring in the blow off valve. Problem solved. If you are showing less pressure at cruise than you are at idle, you have one or both of these problems. A friend of mine had the identical problem after a rebuild. I suspect that his was caused by the same thing. For the record, an experienced engine builder told me that there should be 1/4" of clearance between the pickup and the pan PLUS THE GASKET!!! That should equate into something like 3/8 of an inch or a bit more. Since these engines hold a crazy amount of oil, I would go to 1/2 inch of total clearance. I would not have had this issue if I had spent the extra bucks for the Toyota pump. It is also possible to open up the old pump, reverse the gears, and run it again. I would have been better off!

81 dollars is cheap insurance for a quality pump.

All Car Parts

 

[peterbozeman]

My 1986 FJ60 with a 2F runs at 1/3 at idle and 2/3 under power. I have yet to see it deviate from those two points.
I do have a small leak (quarter after a day, silver dollar after a week).

 

[red62]

My gauge reads dead all the time except when I connect the sending unit wire to ground, then my gauge pegs at high. Two different (duralast autozone) sending units have been the same story. It still seems like a bad sending unit to me. Maybe I need a sender from napa or toyota? I have a mechanical pressure gauge and will check that next time I change oil. Will check the gauge with a variable resistor too.

Does anyone know ahead of time if this is the gauge or the sender from the symptoms? Thanks.

 

[BlueCruiser84]

Probably gauge. Ohm the wiring to ensure continuity - which you have essentially done by grounding the wire. Mine was doing the exact same thing so I tried 3 different brands of senders and eventually replaced it with a mechanical one from autozone and all is well.

 

[Annie]

Hi, I'm a new owner of a LC and have an 89 FJ62 automatic. I also don't know how to start a new thread so hope this works. I noticed my oil pressure needle was as low as it could be while I was driving. I'm ignorant enough to think low oil pressure was good until i started to research it. I haven't driven it since and it has been over a month. The engine has a ticking sound when I turned it on today to listen to it. Now I'm so afraid I hurt the engine. Does ticking sound mean this? Frankly I never turned the car on with the hood up and get out of the car to listen to it. Is a slight ticking normal? I also can't find an image of where the gauge is to manually record the oil pressure. Where is it located? Could someone please help tell me where it is so I can determine if I have a faulty gauge? The oil is clean due to recently doing conventional oil and filter change. The oil level is good too. In case you are wondering, I am a female and never worked on a car or had a big car like this but I can't take it to the shop with every little thing such as the heater stopped blowing warm air and the front windshield fluid won't spray. Thank you so much.