FJ60 heater core concerns

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If you have hot heat from the rear heater but not the dash, then the coolant is obviously hot enough. That leaves a flow problem; either from a blockage in the core or in the lines to it. Or the flow control valve isn't fully opening. Since adjusting the valve is easy and free, I would check it first. Unhook the control cable and check if the valve will move further open.

If the valve isn't the culprit, it is possible to flush the core from the engine compartment. So that would be my next move.

I will try adjusting the control valve, it is worth a shot. I would say that my heat is basically luke warm out of the front and it will as another noted "cook a burrito" from the rear heater.


Zack
 
Suggestions?

Tear it down and fix it. Last thing you want its for it to fail in the boonies blowing coolant everywhere inside the dash. The heaters are old bulky bastards but work well if refreshed or just fixed up. Once you get it all out it is pretty easy to do a resto or fresh on the whole thing. If you haven't before you might as well, 30 or so odd years out of the heater system or core is awesome, a refresh and you got another 20-30yrs of use out of it again.

That is my suggestion. :)

Cheers
 
Is there a how to thread with pictures anywhere?

See post #4 this thread, at the bottom of the pics. 5 hour job. I am less apprehensive aboot it now.
 
I do not know if you can pull the heater core without pulling and disconnecting the AC evaporator. My heater was a poor performer until I pulled the evaporator and cleaned 30 years of dog fur and lint from the intake side of the evaporator which was restricting the air flow 90 percent. Something to keep in mind while your in there. I
 
Heater core is on the way but I have not had much luck locating another set of heater hard lines. So, I need to figure out how to make the engine compartment side of the lines I currently have perfectly round again. They got slightly tweaked during install of the 5.0 and have leaked ever so slightly ever since.

There MUST be a tool that is made for this. Youtube videos are less than helpful lol
 
Perfect, thanks!

It'll be easier to fix out of the vehicle as well.
 
Do it the way the repair musical instruments. They run large BB's (think CV / Birfield joint size) through the tube until its round again.

Dyno
 
Please save yourself some grief and solder the ends. I tried the o-rings on a rebuild a couple years ago and promptly had to do it again twice because it leaked at those connections. Since I don't have my AC lines hooked up it was relatively easy to remove the AC section and then get the heater section out only removing the front center bezel and my radio to get to the fastening nuts/bolts. Since you don't want to remove the AC lines (I wouldn't either if mine were hooked up) much of the dash will need to be removed to get the heater section out. This was one of the jobs I disliked the most on the 60 but heat is important to a family in the winter. Good luck and hope it goes smooth for you!
 
thanks Boots, that is exactly my intention..
 
I second Boots advice. I had my heater core replaced about 2 years ago by a LC specialty shop, using new O-rings...it has leaked ever since.

I had the same symptoms as you before the replacement; strong sweet smell, fogging up the windows, etc.. Granted the leak that I have now is a lot less, it is still present. Which really pisses me off, especially since the $$ I paid to have it replaced. Without tearing it all apart again, I am making an assumption that it is the O-rings. I hope that new heater core didn't crap out after such a short time. BTW, the shop evacuated my AC when they did work.

Good luck - I will be watching your results.
 
so if you "solder" the two pipes that run through the firewall to the heater core.....is there an issue with re-installation, and how does one solder the pipes....(like you would copper plumbing)?

I agree those two little clip/retainers that hold the heater pipes to the heater core...seem far from the best design...but you have to give it some credit for lasting 20+ years. Whats the pain with the re-installation...do the clips get deformed and not pinch the flares correctly once they are removed for the first time and then re-used or is something else going on. I assume you lube the o rings with dielectric grease or something prior to install and it might be hell trying to keep them centered while you trip to work the clasp back on there.
 
Bought my 60 with the dash torn apart, discovered the heater core was fine but the o-rings were leaking and it is a piss poor design with a hard to get to joint inside the cab. I was contemplating taking it to a radiator shop but then I figured any idiot can melt solder. I smeared flux all over the joint and then took my cutting torch on low heat and melted a bunch of solder into it. Don't overheat it because it will pop the tank solder joints. Pressure tested it with a garden hose on low, no leaks. Took all of 5 minutes to do. It will absolutely roast the heck out of the occupants in the cab and it heats up as fast or faster than my wife's 2015 4runner. Dash disassembly isn't hard, just tedious. On the bright side you won't get greasy and you only need like 3 tools to do it. When you reinstall it you may have to slightly bend the pipes to get them back in just right BUT since it is now soldered together it won't leak when you tweak on them! WIN WIN! Oh yeah, it'll probably melt the foam surrounding the core so you'll probably want to get some new stuff. That's what the black goo is on top of the heater core.

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Found a little snow today... could only turn the heater up to 3rd fan speed because full bore was just too hot. My kids kept wanting to roll down their windows but I was trying to dry out my boots and thaw my fingers.
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Well that's interesting... Heater lines not necessary..

$50 well spent
 
winning
 
Super cool. I was hoping for more pictures of the dash disassembly and extraction of the heater core. Mine is not leaking but I know it will leak.

I have what I have been told are the last set of new heater tubes for FJ60 in the world. Bought from CruiserDan about 6-8 years ago. Not bragging, just saying it's a job I need to do. I really like the idea of soldering them to the core.
 
I'll take more pics. Promise
 
are the modified tubes long enough to clear the firewall?
 
They are not really modified.. and I'm concerned about that as well. Time will tell...
 

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