FJ60 heater core concerns

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Mace

Mace

rock scientist..
Staff member
s-Moderator
Moderator
10 Year 15 Year 20 Year OG
Joined
Feb 17, 2002
Threads
439
Messages
21,709
Location
Las Vegas
So the heater in my 60 will drive you out of the truck it's so hot. However, I have been getting a strong Antifreeze smell in the cab and when you turn the heater on, the front windshield fogs up almost immediately. so I'm thinking that the heater core is toast. However, I see that there are O rings in the lines running to the core. Has anyone ever still had a good heater core and the O rings just failed? I need to pull the dash apart to fix whatever is wrong with it (and replace the hard lines most likely because I distorted one by bashing a motor into it and it's leaked ever since) and was hoping to order the parts through rockauto to have on hand. So my one weekend Job would not end up being done next year sometime. ..

Suggestions?
 
one idea is to get the dash far enough apart to where you can see the top of the heater core and then apply pressure to the radiator and potentially you could see if the coolant is leaking at the o ring area. But while I know its a pain in the @$$...if I go that far you might as well jump into a new heater core even though its more work. I'm in the same boat....but have not yet removed the old heater core...
 
man, i feel your pain! 2 weeks after i purchased my 61 the core went on it and i had the same problems you're describing aswell as coolant on the floor.. my advice would be if you can get a new after market or OEM core buy it and solder that sucker in. it will last another 20-30 years and you wont have to worry about the seal of those PITA o-rings when its put back together.

:beer: good luck
 
My experience with a leaky core was those F*&%ing O-rings, once disturbed, were very difficult to stop leaking, even after new Toyota 0-rings. There are little brittle thin clips that hold the two pipe pieces together that deform when removed. FAIK, they're NLA.

If you replace the core, I'd think about the suggestion of having the pipes soldered together and eliminating the rings, and having that assy pressure tested. If I ever do it again, that's what I'll do.

photo64-L.jpg


photo67-M.jpg


From this THREAD
 
I'm going to pull the dash with the hope that I don't have to bleed off the AC.
 
Wow your heater blows hot??? Ive always found 60 series to be cold vehicles to drive in, I am in Canada, but still....
Mine struggles to keep up anywhere below freezing temp
 
Mine bakes you out at -9 f
 
keving said:
Wow your heater blows hot??? Ive always found 60 series to be cold vehicles to drive in, I am in Canada, but still....
Mine struggles to keep up anywhere below freezing temp
Click to expand...

Probably time for a new thermostat. Or perhaps the PO didn't install the rubber gasket on top of it when it was last replaced. The 60's heating system is capable of very hot cabin temps.

Mace, the heater box is installed after the AC and blower boxes so you should be able to remove it without disturbing the AC lines. Nearly all the rest of the dash has to come out unfortunately.
 
The dash needs to come all the way out . Remove heater core. Replace core and insulating foam. Discard o rings . Solder pipes to new core. Instal and clean out AC Evaporator find which accumulates fur and lint since there is no cabin filter . Adjust heater control cables . It is easier than it sounds . It just takes some time and care .
 
60Works said:
Probably time for a new thermostat. Or perhaps the PO didn't install the rubber gasket on top of it when it was last replaced. The 60's heating system is capable of very hot cabin temps.

Mace, the heater box is installed after the AC and blower boxes so you should be able to remove it without disturbing the AC lines. Nearly all the rest of the dash has to come out unfortunately.
Click to expand...
I disagree that a 60's cabin is capable of hot cabin temps. I know for a fact that my thermostat is properly functioning and I have the top gasket. The temp out of the front vents is warm, nothing more. On the other hand the temp from the rear under seat heater will melt your hands. I have had my heater core flushed, and it is still the same. So either my heater core is not great, or its just a 60 series "thing"?
 
Zack1978 said:
I disagree that a 60's cabin is capable of hot cabin temps. I know for a fact that my thermostat is properly functioning and I have the top gasket. The temp out of the front vents is warm, nothing more. On the other hand the temp from the rear under seat heater will melt your hands. I have had my heater core flushed, and it is still the same. So either my heater core is not great, or its just a 60 series "thing"?
Click to expand...

its not a" 60 series thing" how many 60s have you owned and or compared?
sounds like either a bad front heater tap or your front heater core is full of s*** seeing as there is no filter between it and the vent behind the hood. a blocked core = bad heat transfer
 
Jason, I have an entire spare core assy if you need any hard parts. Just went through this process with my restoration project. After testing the engine operations my core works great, hot air! I flushed the core before install and it didn't have any gummy debris in the bottom of it.
 
Rock auto has new cores for ~$50 and I think I have found a set of the hard lines that I can solder to the new core. But I'll let you know!!
thanks!

I was reading up on the heater core replacement and it looks like I'll be good not having to mess with the AC system. Which I REALLY don't want to do. It works killer even in the Vegas heat..


Anyone who does not think a 60's heater can rock is welcome to take a ride with me. It'll bake you out. However, until I get the heater core replaced, you'll just have to deal with the windows looking like a scene from the Titanic..
 
My front heater can burn (well feel like it any way) my skin if I hold my hand directly in front of a vent. No way I can hold it there for long. The FJ60 front heater can cook you alive if it's working properly.
 
not trying to derail the thread...but if you don't have heat out of the front heater core....something "ain't right"... no real difference from having heat at the rear vs the front. You are talking 25+ year old vehicles....stuff needs to be changed and replaced...to include the heater core...

I'm going to swap my heater core out soon and hope the o rings seal at those crazy couplers....still not a big fan of that design, but what can you do....I guess you could (as others have done) brazed/soldered the firewall pipes to the heater core doing away with the o ring seals, or I wonder if you might tig weld a hard line to hose type fitting and run a braided hose out through the firewall ( i know that would be some work but heat is good in the winter).
 
I , too, have the luke heat at the front, and nuke heat on the rear. Dreading the teardown.... :bang:Waits 'til spring. It is good to know rockautos got the core. Crockpot or oven? Lemme know when the cookies are ready ;)
 
If you have hot heat from the rear heater but not the dash, then the coolant is obviously hot enough. That leaves a flow problem; either from a blockage in the core or in the lines to it. Or the flow control valve isn't fully opening. Since adjusting the valve is easy and free, I would check it first. Unhook the control cable and check if the valve will move further open.

If the valve isn't the culprit, it is possible to flush the core from the engine compartment. So that would be my next move.
 
yup, my front(even with AC on) will roast you, the rear you could bake a burrito on


Mace said:
Anyone who does not think a 60's heater can rock is welcome to take a ride with me. It'll bake you out. However, until I get the heater core replaced, you'll just have to deal with the windows looking like a scene from the Titanic..
Click to expand...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom