Builds fj60 going to EV FJ45 (2 Viewers)

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It looks like a 60s mustang wheel to me, but whatever floats your boat. Check out the grant catalog, they have a lot of options.
 
Okay, I got the second motor out and commissioned the spin sensors. Now, they need to be joined together. I asked Hawkeye how I'm supposed to join them together, assuming there was some part, but nope. They got nothing. So, I've got to go find that. Any suggestions. It's a lot of effing torque.

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What do the ends of the shafts look like? Is this a rigid coupler or does it have to have rubber/silicone isolator in it?
 
I'll take another picture it's nothing unusual, has keyway

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I'm waiting for word from Netgain, but I really don't think a rigid will work. They are each 120hp and with the frame flexing and the mounts flexing. Because, the more I think about it, the more I'm sure I'll never be able to get it stiff enough for a solid coupler.

These guys sell one for $1,100 Euros. Ouch. DUAL hyper9 or EV HypE ™ motor coupler kit – EV Europe - https://eveurope.eu/en/product/dual-hyper-coupler/

At the trans end it's in the transmission and that's on a cross member. I have the two braces or mounts for the middle of each, and I'm hoping to get (or make) a mount that bolts onto the end of the second motor. So, 4 points of attachment - to something. One of the things I'm thinking about is are the 3 mounts that aren't the transmission all onto one frame, and then that frame is mounted to the car frame, or is each mounted directly to the frame. I'm kind of leaning towards the first as I can run two pieces of box end to end, build it into a ladder and then I'll be able to lift the entire thing in and out as a unit.
 
Ya, I saw all their offerings. No idea which would be appropriate for application and horsepower.
 
Sub'ed!
 
That won't work, they are joined end to end.

I bore down into the Mcmaster Carr site selecting shaft size and RPM and torque and ended up with only a couple that could spin that fast (9000 rpm max, 3,300 continuous) and that much torque (175 ft lbs torque). I ordered 2, they aren't that expensive and I wanted to get them here in person. But, I'm going to have to have them lined up very well. And I'm going to have to have them mounted very, very firmly. Which is an interesting compromise between rubber for shock absorbing and not allowing to much movement. So, I need more mounts/supports so the individual motors can move relative to each other.
 
Northwest Fab black box fellers have some adapter / coupling experience..I had one on order and learned a lot randomly chatting with them..also maybe advanced adapters for some thoughts since you’re a paying customer? Seems like science man I dunno how much crackmaster car dabbling I’d be doing..total dream build hoping for your success! How about naming it the man trailing coon hound ?
 
Advanced adapters is a good idea. I'll look at Northwest Fab.
 
With My German car background , I wonder if a driveshaft coupler from a Bmw 740! Would be strong enough? You could machine two flanges and bolt the two together just like a driveshaft. Big heavy car with a big v8. These are pretty stout.

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That won't work, they are joined end to end.

I bore down into the Mcmaster Carr site selecting shaft size and RPM and torque and ended up with only a couple that could spin that fast (9000 rpm max, 3,300 continuous) and that much torque (175 ft lbs torque). I ordered 2, they aren't that expensive and I wanted to get them here in person. But, I'm going to have to have them lined up very well. And I'm going to have to have them mounted very, very firmly. Which is an interesting compromise between rubber for shock absorbing and not allowing to much movement. So, I need more mounts/supports so the individual motors can move relative to each other.
jet boat drive couplers... same concept only linear.
 
Okay, so, I'm still completing bench testing the setup and trying to get the second motor running as a slave. The Clone files sent me have an error, so I'm waiting for revised files to make it to me. I've got 3 different flexible couplers here. But, I was just told that bolting them motors down to the same steel framework isn't enough. I'm going to have to bolt the motors together.
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So, I need a machine stop that can make me two plates, one for each side, that have a common surface that can be bolted together.
 
Okay, found a machine shop that is going to build something that might work.

Also, spent the last wrestling with getting the second motor to spin Hawkeye kept sending me new clone files to try. Finally talked directly to Netgain today, he said the errors I was getting were can bus error. Call Hawkeye and he said remove his fancy little display module and bang can bus works. He had a conflicting address. So, a week spent tracking that down. Now, both motors spin, but not the same direction and not the same speed. So, progress is slow.

Also, on the 'fun I'm having' front. Trying to get the fancy JuiceBox charging thing. It has a 14-50 220v plug (3 prong with ground). I have 6-50 outlets (2 prong with ground). Bought an adapter on Amazon, Juice box doesn't like it. Ground isn't wired correctly. So I bought all the stuff to build my own 14-50 to 6-50 adapter. Juice Box still throws a purple light. So Eff me.
 
Workingdog, I'm interested but completely unfamiliar with electric motor power ratings. The spec for the motor you posted shows 38Kw (or approx. 50 hp) @ 3300 RPMs. What's the power curve look like on this? I see that the max RPM is 7500, so where is the peak power and torque on this motor? Would the rated power RPM be your target RPM for say cruising down the freeway at 65 mph? Is peak power up near 7500 RPM "redline"? If so, is the power gain pretty linear? Can we assume the power will be 80-ish Kw (or approx. 110 HP) ?

Curious, but uninformed.

Edit: I looked back a few posts and you say these are 120 HP each, so that must be at 7500 RPMs, correct?

Chuck
 
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@Chuckha62 So, I know very little about electric motors myself. Go to the Netgain site - go-ev.com - and they have lots of data. One thing I do know is that electric motors are not at all like gas in that they produce all their torque at zero rpm. The usual 'at what rpm' isn't as applicable as in a gas motor and the question of cruising rpm isn't the same either. Once I get running, I'm going to look at what kind of amperage draw there is in on the highway at different RPMs and I'll choose the gear with the lowest draw. I have the transmission, so I can select and RPM with the lowest draw.
 
@Chuckha62 So, I know very little about electric motors myself. Go to the Netgain site - go-ev.com - and they have lots of data. One thing I do know is that electric motors are not at all like gas in that they produce all their torque at zero rpm. The usual 'at what rpm' isn't as applicable as in a gas motor and the question of cruising rpm isn't the same either. Once I get running, I'm going to look at what kind of amperage draw there is in on the highway at different RPMs and I'll choose the gear with the lowest draw. I have the transmission, so I can select and RPM with the lowest draw.

I found a chart that appears to show a VERY linear power "curve" right up to the max RPM, so while it's different than an ICE, it appears to produce usable "power" right to the peak. As you say though, it's going to be about draw and balance to create a usable range.

Super interested as you move forward with this. It's a rethink for sure on everything we know about motivation, though.
 
Okay, been working on the connection between the two motors. I got two shaft couplers.

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but the taller one is just a little too long to fig, so I'm going with the shorter one.

Also, on talking to the machinist, this is a drawing of what he came up with, I laid it out so I had dimensions to work with. the colored parts are the parts we are adding. the blueish parts are the coupler and the pink and gray are (4) 1" stainless steel rod threaded at both ends that will connect the two motors and the orange bits are an additional plate he'll build so that we can attach the rods to the plate and then the plate to the motor. Hopefully the rods will give us enough space that we can install the coupling as we put the two motors together.

All the rods have to do is keep the motors in alignment against any torque forces produced by the motors or flexing in the support frame. they shouldn't be carrying any weight.

He's also going to create a piece for the forward end of the two motors that will bolt to the end plate and extend down to the support frame to hold the end still.

Going to work on second attempt at support frame today. Anticipate at least 2 more versions before I'm done.
 
@Chuckha62 - yes, and about how the throttle response might vary at different RPMs. Although, my driving of a Tesla I rented for a weekend showed that there was no variation. I'm really interested to see how it is climbing a really big ledge. Unlike a ICE where you either have a torque converter or clutch mediating the power, I think the electric motor will be incredibly smooth and won't have the tendency to 'lurch' forward like an ICE engine does - something that has always driven me crazy. I have no idea whether low range will even be of any use or not. Going to be interesting to find out.
 

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