FJ60 Dual Electric Fans

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I was thinking of running electric fans on my stock 2f setup to save some HP.
Looks like thats not possible from what im reading.
 
I've gone this route and I am very pleased with the fans. I used another aluminum radiator, but no problems with fit. My fJ60 runs cool, but I did upgrade my alternator. The fans draw a lot of power.
What alternator did you upgrade too if you don't mind me asking?
 
What alternator did you upgrade too if you don't mind me asking?

Here ya go - a new ACDelco 335-1049 Professional Alternator at $129

This alternator also supplies more power for my Holley Sniper EFI from Mosley Motors and a DUI electronic distributor.

But, also does require the fabrication of a custom alternator bracket.
 
I was thinking of running electric fans on my stock 2f setup to save some HP.
Looks like thats not possible from what im reading.

It’s possible, I ran dual camaro electrics for several years. You won’t notice a power difference though, at least I didn’t.
 
I was thinking of running electric fans on my stock 2f setup to save some HP.
Looks like thats not possible from what im reading.

its possible but not likely to save a noticeable amount of hp. You'll just switch from mechanically turning a cooling fan to electrically turning a cooling fan....you still need to produce the electricity and that = load increase on the alternator and that = more hp loss. The question becomes does the electrical load of the fan require more hp than the cooling fan and viscous clutch.

if you were doing a lot of high load work...towing, trail crawling in a hot environment etc you could add a fan the pulls air out of the engine bay through the fender vents or a custom hood vent or maybe down under the vehicle....this would lower the pressure in the engine bay and help increase the airflow through the radiator
 
Any pics of this mounted up?? I just put a mishimoto aluminum radiator on mine and would like something that mounts right up!

Sorry, don’t think so not with a 2F but I’m running an LS now with ford contour fans on a stock style radiator. The size is near perfect. That is what I would suggest. Search contour fans on here, should pull up some threads.
 
its possible but not likely to save a noticeable amount of hp. You'll just switch from mechanically turning a cooling fan to electrically turning a cooling fan....you still need to produce the electricity and that = load increase on the alternator and that = more hp loss. The question becomes does the electrical load of the fan require more hp than the cooling fan and viscous clutch.

if you were doing a lot of high load work...towing, trail crawling in a hot environment etc you could add a fan the pulls air out of the engine bay through the fender vents or a custom hood vent or maybe down under the vehicle....this would lower the pressure in the engine bay and help increase the airflow through the radiator
Nice thing though is you aren’t spinning a fan all the time, only when the temps get up enough to turn them on. On my set up, they rarely came on which means they rarely were pulling power, electrical or otherwise.
 
Nice thing though is you aren’t spinning a fan all the time, only when the temps get up enough to turn them on. On my set up, they rarely came on which means they rarely were pulling power, electrical or otherwise.

this is also true of the stock mechanical fan.
 
Sorry, don’t think so not with a 2F but I’m running an LS now with ford contour fans on a stock style radiator. The size is near perfect. That is what I would suggest. Search contour fans on here, should pull up some threads.
@RredFJ40 any chance you have a picture of this in your rig to show clearance? I am struggling wit the same H42 4spd/ranger OD radiator clearance issue on an 83 FJ60 but with 350 tbi V-8, I have 3" between the water pump pulley/fan mounting bolts and factory radiator... I REALLY dont wanna move the whole motor/od/trans/transfer assembly back a few inches just to squeeze in a clutch fan or this deep electric puller
 
My viscous fan failed on me, and when I tried to recon it myself, it just wouldn't come apart.
A friend of mine had a twin electric fan setup off of an AU Falcon (I am in Australia), and he gave it to me no cost. I bought an aftermarket thermo controller, has dual fan control at manually set temps.
I have to say, because of my 'skills' (if you would be so bold as to use that term) it is not a pretty set up, with ali angle used to fit the plastic shroud to the Rad, but it works a treat - never any overheating problems, and the Western Australian Summer is not cool. I often travel with 6 adults (My kids are basically grown but love to come for a drive on occasion - 400+km).

Possibly because it is off a similar engine size these fans do just fine, and don't seem to draw much power. You don't see them come on in the charge gauge. And they are not noisy, again probably because they are from a passenger car.
I would like to upgrade my alternator, but simply because I want to run a few accessories, not because the fan draws too much.
Looking to free up power by getting rid of the viscous fan is a waste of time. Most of the time it is in freewheel anyway.

I did it simply because it was going to be cheaper for me at the time because I was given the fans and shroud.
I was however surprised at how easy it was for me to wire up, and it just works.

As far as I am concerned - if your standard fan is working fine, don't change it. If your fan packs it in, and you can get the bits for electric cheaper than a replacement coupling, then go electric, twin fan, differential starting temps. I personally would be hard pressed to shell out for a full aftermarket custom fan set up.
 
Here are some photos of my mounting of the dual fan behind an new aluminum radiator.
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thanks so much for these photos... tempted to give this a go as my current electric fan setup is not working cause the shroud is very minimal and the vans are right up against the rad limiting air flow... has a hard time staying cool even at speed. the shroud on this looks huge, and i like the extra air vents which look to open up at speed. ... gonna decide b/w this or just going for the full mechanical setup. this would def. be easier if it can handle the deserts with a/c , (i'm in socal)
 
also found this sku, same size as the original one mentioned, but has the variable speed fan controller built right into it, as well as the temp probe that's independent of the existing temp sensors.

this looks like a real nice solution as there's no shock of the fans coming on and off..

 
Pardon my ignorance, but I have a question. Do both fans come on at the same time or are there situations were just one fan comes on? And if one fan just comes on does it draw air from the openings of the second fan is not running?
 
Pardon my ignorance, but I have a question. Do both fans come on at the same time or are there situations were just one fan comes on? And if one fan just comes on does it draw air from the openings of the second fan is not running?

that depends on your fan controller.. currently i have the dakota digital fan controller that controls each fan independently, and when fan 1 kicks on, it tends to take a while to shift the temps(i'm assuming cause it's pulling alot of air thru the fan 2 opening as well vs the radiator fins), vs when fan 1 and 2 turn on and both are pulling thru the rad fins..
 
I'm not 100% on this, but I think it's a modulation thing as supposed to one on, one off deal.. both fans turn on, and rpm revs up and/or down as needed.... This would make the set up 100% efficient
But I could be wrong...
 
I'm not 100% on this, but I think it's a modulation thing as supposed to one on, one off deal.. both fans turn on, and rpm revs up and/or down as needed.... This would make the set up 100% efficient
But I could be wrong...
for the pwm controller like the Derale one, you're correct Manu, i like the idea of it alot better than the yoyo effect of just 100% on or off.. this guy also sells something similar to the Derale unit

 
Regarding the dual fans, you must wire them to a water temp sensor to activate them. In my case, I recently upgraded my carburetor to a Holley Sniper EFI. Using the Holley Sniper, I was able to set it to turn on/off each fan at different temperatures. I think my first fan turns on at 195 degrees and then off when 185 degrees is reached. The second fan turns on at 205 degrees and then turns off at 195 degrees. In this way, you can really control how much fan cooling you need. Of course, you'll want to use relays with fuses for each of these fans. I have an auxiliary DC fuse box in my engine compartment that neatly wires in each fan plus additional electrical accessories like my electric fuel pump.
 

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