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- #21
Resistance* sorry for my spelling errors.
FJ60 A/C problems need advice!!
- Thread starter jpeterson
- Start date
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Did you ever figure this out? I thought this thread was going to really help me out but then it just ended. My 84 fj60 is doing the same thing. Circuit breaker blows after a minute with the fan on any speed and the ac off. Wires are getting very hot. What's the fix? Run new wires?
Digging up an old thread - my 87 is doing something similar - Justin not on a regular basis. Did you ever figure this out?
MY 84 FJ60 Doing the same thing only on High would love a solution
I just realized recently that mine only trips the breaker on high as well. All other settings are fine. I'm going to see if it makes a difference on recirculate or normal....
Well dang, I dredged this one up in hopes of results when reading onto page two. As you guess it, my '83 is doing this exact thing. Fine all winter with heat on high and even now, but as soon as I press the AC button it runs for a few minutes on high and kicks the breaker.
Will run on speeds 1 2 or 3 all day, no issues. Again, this is only when AC is ON. Heat we're all good.
Has anyone figured this out or are we just living in a world with only 3 fan speeds for AC? (Which beats the heck out of no AC).
Will run on speeds 1 2 or 3 all day, no issues. Again, this is only when AC is ON. Heat we're all good.
Has anyone figured this out or are we just living in a world with only 3 fan speeds for AC? (Which beats the heck out of no AC).
I guess fj60’s are 4 speed trans and 3 speed AC?
Anyone figure this out? It’s really frustrating!
I’ve replaced the blower motor and blower resistor. Nothing...
Anyone figure this out? It’s really frustrating!
I’ve replaced the blower motor and blower resistor. Nothing...
red66toy
Supporting Vendor
It’s an epidemic! I’m dealing with this as well in my FJ62. If I figure it out I’ll let you know. Swapping amps didn’t help, new CB didn’t help, new relay didn’t help.
Swapping motors tomorrow. After that I am going to look at the terminals for the CB in the fuse panel and fan speed switch contacts
Swapping motors tomorrow. After that I am going to look at the terminals for the CB in the fuse panel and fan speed switch contacts
What’s a CB?
I replaced the resistor and tried another blower motor I got from cruiserparts.net
I’m going to try a brand new aftermarket motor tomorrow... not expecting anything different at this point, but I’m hoping!
What else could it be? Bad breaker? Something strange with the 4th position on the switch? Something else messing with it down the line?
I’m just about ready to replace the whole damn thing!
It's still a resistance issue... I put a new aftermarket blower in, it lasted a bit longer but will still pop the breaker.
I've read about a mod on here with a new, larger wire to to the blower motor that even improves performance. I'm about to give that a shot...
I've read about a mod on here with a new, larger wire to to the blower motor that even improves performance. I'm about to give that a shot...
red66toy
Supporting Vendor
Sorry, circuit breaker = CB. Hope your new motor solves it! I am wondering about the 4 position on the switch as well. But the most common issues that solve this problem are the motor and a new CB.
pandasfj
SILVER Star
Looking at the wiring diagram theirs a 10 amp fuse for the a/c switch. while running the a/c on high speed pull the 10 amp fuse and see if it trips and if it doesn't then it might be coming from that circuit. Could be in that a/c switch that might be shorting out, just an idea.
So after having my 60 sit for over a year. Replacing everything AC related. I have this exact same issue.
1-3 no problem. on High kicks off. Good news is i am running R12 and in my Garage it is just over 100 degrees and the AC is sitting at 40*. Nice.
On speed 1 it was enough to cool me off. Now with the sun beating I can see speed 3. But I am also wondering why this is happening.
1-3 no problem. on High kicks off. Good news is i am running R12 and in my Garage it is just over 100 degrees and the AC is sitting at 40*. Nice.
On speed 1 it was enough to cool me off. Now with the sun beating I can see speed 3. But I am also wondering why this is happening.
red66toy
Supporting Vendor
So I am dealing with this in my 62 and also replaced everything AC and hvac related (except the stock wiring). I have measured the amps pulled by the motor and it was never above 12amps on high. However, when I put an amp meter on my ac compressor something happened with the clutch and all of a sudden pulled too many amps and that is what tripped the breaker. I am trying to determine what caused this. I'll report back what I find.
red66toy
Supporting Vendor
Ok so Im still trying to figure this out. Currently waiting on a different amp meter that I can hook up to measure some areas of current draw.
So going back to the compressor clutch, If it did pop the breaker it didn't pop the 10 amp fuse it uses for power which is interesting.
That means if the fan motor pulls 12 amps on high and the ac circuit can pull up to 10 amps before the fuse pops, that means there is potentially another 8 amps that can be drawn before the circuit breaker will pop. So that is confusing.....
However, is it possible for the clutch to pull enough amps fast enough to not pop the fuse but still trip the circuit breaker? That is the only thing that makes sense to me at this point.
So plans of action are 1: measure the clutch amp draw at the time of the breaker popping while driving around. And 2: measure the total amp draw just after the circuit breaker for the whole system to see if the breaker really is popping at 30 amps or if its actually less.
I'll report back again! I am tired of this wiring chasing
So going back to the compressor clutch, If it did pop the breaker it didn't pop the 10 amp fuse it uses for power which is interesting.
That means if the fan motor pulls 12 amps on high and the ac circuit can pull up to 10 amps before the fuse pops, that means there is potentially another 8 amps that can be drawn before the circuit breaker will pop. So that is confusing.....
However, is it possible for the clutch to pull enough amps fast enough to not pop the fuse but still trip the circuit breaker? That is the only thing that makes sense to me at this point.
So plans of action are 1: measure the clutch amp draw at the time of the breaker popping while driving around. And 2: measure the total amp draw just after the circuit breaker for the whole system to see if the breaker really is popping at 30 amps or if its actually less.
I'll report back again! I am tired of this wiring chasing
pandasfj
SILVER Star
I would try installing a 30 amp fuse in place of the circuit breaker and see if the 10 amp fuse blows first.
Ok so Im still trying to figure this out. Currently waiting on a different amp meter that I can hook up to measure some areas of current draw.
So going back to the compressor clutch, If it did pop the breaker it didn't pop the 10 amp fuse it uses for power which is interesting.
That means if the fan motor pulls 12 amps on high and the ac circuit can pull up to 10 amps before the fuse pops, that means there is potentially another 8 amps that can be drawn before the circuit breaker will pop. So that is confusing.....
However, is it possible for the clutch to pull enough amps fast enough to not pop the fuse but still trip the circuit breaker? That is the only thing that makes sense to me at this point.
So plans of action are 1: measure the clutch amp draw at the time of the breaker popping while driving around. And 2: measure the total amp draw just after the circuit breaker for the whole system to see if the breaker really is popping at 30 amps or if its actually less.
I'll report back again! I am tired of this wiring chasing
True heros don't wear capes! Your quest is a noble one and I'm glad someone with more electrical knowledge than I is after this gremlin.
Cheers to you, sir. If I make it to Seattle anytime soon I am buying you a cold beer or will bring you some Kentucky Bourbon.
red66toy
Supporting Vendor
Ok so I am still at this because I am a nut job like that. I installed the amp meter just after the breaker. However, I also installed another new breaker, replaced the relay for the rear heater circuit (because i was seeing a 1 amp draw when it wasnt on) and repositioned the temp sensing tube on the expansion valve (I think it was touching the incoming refrigerant line which would throw off the cycling).......
So once I installed the amp meter I went to work measuring the system and what everything draws. The heater blower on high draws 12-13 and the ac system draws 3-4 amps. Recirc setting makes the motor pull one more amp. I never saw the system take up more than 16-17 amps and it also stopped tripping! I ran it for over 40min and it never tripped! So awesome and frustrating and here is why:
I thought maybe it was because I installed another new breaker... so I swapped in the old-new one again.... still didn't trip. huh..
It wouldn't have to do with the tube repositioning because that has to do with cycling, not how much the compressor clutch pulls.....
So it can be one of two things: it was the swap of the rear heater relay. I swapped the old one back in and will test it tomorrow.. Or its the fact that the terminals that hold the breaker are now much tighter fitting. In my attempts to get the terminals out of the fuse block so I could slip the ring-based amp meter over the wire I bent them a little and now they really grab onto the breaker electrical contacts.
The tighter fitting terminals could have made a difference.. better electrical contact would mean less resistance and heat to trip the breaker. If swapping in the old rear relay doesn't make the breaker trip then I am going to conclude it was a poor connection between the breaker and the terminals and just be happy it works now..... for now.
So once I installed the amp meter I went to work measuring the system and what everything draws. The heater blower on high draws 12-13 and the ac system draws 3-4 amps. Recirc setting makes the motor pull one more amp. I never saw the system take up more than 16-17 amps and it also stopped tripping! I ran it for over 40min and it never tripped! So awesome and frustrating and here is why:
I thought maybe it was because I installed another new breaker... so I swapped in the old-new one again.... still didn't trip. huh..
It wouldn't have to do with the tube repositioning because that has to do with cycling, not how much the compressor clutch pulls.....
So it can be one of two things: it was the swap of the rear heater relay. I swapped the old one back in and will test it tomorrow.. Or its the fact that the terminals that hold the breaker are now much tighter fitting. In my attempts to get the terminals out of the fuse block so I could slip the ring-based amp meter over the wire I bent them a little and now they really grab onto the breaker electrical contacts.
The tighter fitting terminals could have made a difference.. better electrical contact would mean less resistance and heat to trip the breaker. If swapping in the old rear relay doesn't make the breaker trip then I am going to conclude it was a poor connection between the breaker and the terminals and just be happy it works now..... for now.
red66toy
Supporting Vendor
You are too funny. We can both drink to the sorrows and ridiculousness of these AC systems. I do love bourbon.
Awesome!
Mine is not cycling on and off like yours. I did see it at a light that it would kick on and off, I still think I am a bit low on refrigerant ad will try that. I will see on the connections as well if the AC on max trips the breaker after adjusting. Who knows it may be it, or it may just be a finicky system.
Mine is not cycling on and off like yours. I did see it at a light that it would kick on and off, I still think I am a bit low on refrigerant ad will try that. I will see on the connections as well if the AC on max trips the breaker after adjusting. Who knows it may be it, or it may just be a finicky system.
