FJ55 on Coilovers

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ideal is horizontal at ride height, so the tyre doesnt have to go forward to go up, and when climbing rock steps, the angle of the arm isnt driving into the ledge, and stopping the suspension from compressing.

I did have agood vid from when at rocker knocker highlighting this, but I dont have it on the net anywhere at the moment.

Alkso, to much angle, and to much droop allows the wheel to drop into a hole on steep downhills, and instead of compressing the suspension, the car pivots over the arm, and ends up dead ant style.

The occasional [if ever] time it gets hung up on there is a better option in my opinion, than all the other downsides.
 
ATS,

Those are all pretty good ideas. You wouldn't happen know any pros for having the links angled up do you? When I was planning my project, I looked at FZJ80 control arms, Jeep Wrangler links, and Defender 90s. All of the stock and after market suspensions have the links angled up. I assume that it wouldn't be too difficult to use drop brackets to create flat lower links. On my project if I would have used flat lower links my Antidive would have been very low.

Thanks,
Ryan.
 
ideal is horizontal, like a panhard rod, so movement is equal for up and down, and your coil overs to work on one third up travel, and the rest in droop.

Back in the late 90's, doing big cruiser lifts, turning the control arm upside down so it went over, rather than under the diff was the way we achieved this.

On my current vehicle, I have lowered the back of the front arm mount by the amount of the lift, keeping them slim, it has allowed the full travel in droop of the front still, as well as having the arm horizontal with 3" of lift.

I have seen vehicles punch the rear of front control arm mounts off the chassis, because of the big angle, and constant thumping that is transferred from this design issue when doing a big lift.

I do like to work on the biggest dia tyre, and the lowest amount of suspension lift, to achieve a good balance between C.O.G and clearance.

My current vehicle, which is very similar to cruiser in wheelbase, chassis and supension set up, I use 3" lifted springs we designed with a 4" longer free height, running 10" front Fox 3 tube bypass shocks, and rear 14" bypass shocks, so the springs stay captive, and with the back of front arms dropped, they are horizontal, as well I have given the vehicle 1.5 deg neg camber in the front for better turn in, and run 37" pro comp 3 ply muds on 17 x 9 roby gordon alloy rims.
I cut the fenders to fit the tyres, so as not to have to got to high.

I built a 40 series 7 years ago, using 60 springs, which we modified, late spring eyes, and converted the front to rear shackle running 38's with no body lift and 2" suspnsion lift, we made it 98" wheelbase, moving front forward, and rear back, 4w disc brakes, power steering, bilstein shocks, and 454, and the suspension, and wheel alignment specs made the vehicle extremely stable, even with no sway bars, and an rti score of well over 1000 [was a pic on slee site with one wheel on a 44 gal aus [205lt] drum, with fuel tank nice and low, and spare flat on the back floor.

my general rule of thumb is to widen the track buy the amount of suspension lift, or more, to help stability, when putting a vehicle together, as well as keeping all the weight between the chassis rails, and between the axles, to help prevent the pendulum effect.
 
Thanks for all the input! I just sent an email to Polyperformance, I am returning the 14" coilovers for 12" and I will be ordering the parts to start the 4 link rear. I am going to run a single triangulated 4 link with parallel uppers. As a couple people have mentioned the ride height is too tall. I am going to bring it down 3"

Ryan.
 
dude .. it looks pretty nice ..

Just windering in this pic ..

DSCN0249.JPG


If the exhaust pipe gonna run to close from the front drive shaft .?
 
The picture is a little deceptive. The exhaust is actually about 6-7" in front of the flange. I have fitted the CV and it clears with room to spare. Really the biggest problem with the exhaust was the upper link mount. I wanted to move the upper link mount further back, but at full compression it would have crushed the exhaust. So I had to compromise on link length.

Ryan.
 
Nice 55

My mates old man had a couple of these, 1 was like show room condition sold it about 8 years ago when i sold him my 60 series. I should have done a swap.
 
Well hurry up on the 40's so that you can get another 55 rolling through here ;-) Have you found a 55 yet? It took me quite a while to find a 55 that wasn't rusted through. I was very lucky to have found this one, bought from a guy in Ohio.

Ryan.

Still trying to finish 2 40's before she can have a piggy. And she won't let me mod it :crybaby:
 
I have my eye on one but no $$ for it. Also my wife said she wants a stocker. I've been eyeing a pair of 55's (one with great drivetrains but shot body and one with perfect body but no drivetrain). Setup the one with the good drivetrain and put the good body on it then put the shot one on the other frame and wheel the crap out of it if everything falls into place
 
1 step forward 2 steps back. Well we were hoping to get the 55 fired up and drive it around this week. The Tundra airbox and MAF sensor showed up, but there is no way to fit it under the hood. We rigged up the MAF to get it started. We had a good idle, but the motor was pinging a little. We filled the radiator with fluid and found a split oil cooler hose. So no driving today.

It is back to the drawing board for an Air Intake and MAF sensor. We are split on how to proceed. I was thinking that tube and silicone hose like those used on an intercooler would be the way to go, but Lance wants to look at other Toyotas to see if we can find one that has a smaller airbox that might fit.

Damn.

Ryan.
 
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hey mate, cool write up, i was just wondering, if you knew the part numbers, just been having a look at the poly performance website, but its a tad confusing, cheers dave
 

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