FJ45 Dash Panel Ammeter Wires (2 Viewers)

[knuckle47]

@45Dougal maybe you know the answer to this one….. is the fusible link a direct connection between the positive battery terminal and the positive terminal of the 30A gauge?

 

[45Dougal]

To shunt the 50A gauge you'd need to simply add the correct resistor across the two terminals.
I never found what it was, but a bit of experimentation by applying voltage to the gauge would soon determine that.
"Volts at full scale deflection" divided by 50A = resistance needed. Then calculate the resistor power to handle all that current =50x50xR plus some margin

 

[45Dougal]

@45Dougal maybe you know the answer to this one….. is the fusible link a direct connection between the positive battery terminal and the positive terminal of the 30A gauge?

See diagram..

 

[knuckle47]

Found a bunch of data on shunts but as you said, but nothing definitive and I’m not ready to experiment. I have a challenge in the diagram in that some of the harness on this truck has been re-wired with just plain old solid color wires in new random locations. Tracing it is a pain. I see that the solid red wire on my battery post is the same size and color as the wire going to the 30A ammeter. If the fusible link is just part of that lentgh of wire, I will put the connectors in line and re-establish the circuit with the fusible link …I think some one may have cut it out when the red wire was attached

 

[45Dougal]

Found a bunch of data on shunts but as you said, but nothing definitive and I’m not ready to experiment. I have a challenge in the diagram in that some of the harness on this truck has been re-wired with just plain old solid color wires in new random locations. Tracing it is a pain. I see that the solid red wire on my battery post is the same size and color as the wire going to the 30A ammeter. If the fusible link is just part of that lentgh of wire, I will put the connectors in line and re-establish the circuit with the fusible link …I think some one may have cut it out when the red wire was attached

I think originally, the fusible link was just a short length of wire a couple of sizes smaller than the main wire to limit the damage in any fault condition so easily recreated.

 

[knuckle47]

I think originally, the fusible link was just a short length of wire a couple of sizes smaller than the main wire to limit the damage in any fault condition so easily recreated.

Correct… I read today it was about 7” long (17.75cm to you)

 

[45Dougal]

Correct… I read today it was about 7” long (17.75cm to you)

It was made in Japan so its probably 18cm then.

My parents experienced the decimal transition and always used feet and inches. We were taught metric but you'll find both inches and cm on any tape measure you'll buy in the UK, and I use them both as I see appropriate (to most peoples irritation)

I'm very much a believer of using the right unit for the right measurement to work in the most efficient way, because it infers a certain accuracy.
If I ask for a wire to be cut to 1219mm, it infers a greater accuracy than if I ask for 4 feet of the same wire.
If I measure a piece of timber and it falls right on a line on the inch scale, then makes more sense to use that than add a fraction of a mm.

 

[knuckle47]

@45Dougal back in the ‘70s we lived in Vermont about 4 miles from the Canada border. Canada , the Quebec province area, was switching to metric. Never really got ahold of the transition myself and since we had watched Canadian TV, every thing was metric…confusing at best even temperatures were odd all winter. One day it was -54 F….they said it was warmer at-47…(hahaha) .. we just called freakin’ cold

 

[45Dougal]

@45Dougal back in the ‘70s we lived in Vermont about 4 miles from the Canada border. Canada , the Quebec province area, was switching to metric. Never really got ahold of the transition myself and since we had watched Canadian TV, every thing was metric…confusing at best even temperatures were odd all winter. One day it was -54 F….they said it was warmer at-47…(hahaha) .. we just called freakin’ cold

Using Fahrenheit is a step too far for even me! My goal of efficiency quickly necessitates SI units in this case.

 

[knuckle47]

You would enjoy this in that case …surprised me. Never even thought about it

apparently it is more efficient….so therefore we have Toyota…found this right here on IH8MUD

 

[knuckle47]

All in all…I just really say thanks for the help and ideas….typical of MUD guys. ‘Birds of a feather” as they say.

 

[cruisermatt]

I never saw any mention of what cluster was in the truck originally and which is the replacement? +50A meter should be correct for 79 non-US, no?

Personally I would pull that entire harness and completely replace the entire white-blue main +12v charge wire run from alternator to battery that someone replaced with that red wire.

I would skip the GM alternator in favor of an 3FE alternator. Bolts in on your Non-US 2F and available new OEM.
Done this a few times…

 

[knuckle47]

as we had said…they use these trucks heavily over there…. I have no reservations about what other inverted things will pop out of this chassis I have had easier times with 1950’s motorcycles I brought home in 15 different boxes. Those things had some assemblage of common sense.

This truck reminds my of talking to my wife who turns around an hour later and says..” didn’t you hear anything I said?’… “are you completely in the dark?”

this truck gives me those same vibes !!!

the dash cluster is the same as I had in my FJ40 back in ‘74. 30A meter and the green plastic arrow directional signals on each side of the speedo face