kling-on
Kool Arrow
- Joined
- Apr 26, 2003
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- 254
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- 5,502
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- Pimpin part in SanAntonio TX
- Website
- www.texas4x4.org
lookin good ... did you cut and turn your front axle ??? I wish my 60 had those coilover and tires 
Builds fj40 rock crawler build
- Thread starter bulldog11267mad
- Start date
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lookin good ... did you cut and turn your front axle ??? I wish my 60 had those coilover and tires
do you need the right caster with a full hydo systeam lol
- Thread starter
- #63
no i haven't. its not going to be used on road so i was going to see how it handle off road and if i have to cut and turn them then i will.
- Thread starter
- #65
well i got the engine in tonight!!!
i still have to paint the transmission and the oil pan has to get re powder coated because the first time it bubbled i think there was a little oil film on the metal that made it not stick and bubble.
i will post better pics tomorrow.
i still have to paint the transmission and the oil pan has to get re powder coated because the first time it bubbled i think there was a little oil film on the metal that made it not stick and bubble. i will post better pics tomorrow.
- Thread starter
- #66
sorry posted same pic twice
kling-on
Kool Arrow
- Joined
- Apr 26, 2003
- Threads
- 254
- Messages
- 5,502
- Location
- Pimpin part in SanAntonio TX
- Website
- www.texas4x4.org
if you want your tie rod up high you do ... also the steering will be more even as well ....
- Thread starter
- #68
I have everything I need for the steering but thanx
- Thread starter
- #69
here are a few more pictures! i am at college now so i wont be able to work on the car until i get to go home for thanksgiving break.
I dont know if the crack smoking in college or high school rots the brain that quickly... But I think youve got some serious problems if you think putting that much money and time into that rig and not cut&turning the axle is a good idea.. OR .. on the other hand you might just have REEEEly deep pockets...
In which case I was wondering if you could help me fund my fj build!!!
(NO Offence.)
P.S. Looks sweet though!
In which case I was wondering if you could help me fund my fj build!!!
(NO Offence.)
P.S. Looks sweet though!
i'm not sure if you read the comments between your updates (and if you don't, then you won't read this one either) but the guys and gals on this forum know their stuff. many of them have done exactly what you are trying to do multiple times...some with good results and some with less than desirable outcomes. the point is, they have a lot of experience and are trying to offer it to you to make your cruiser (oh, and a cruiser is not a car...if anything it is a truck, but preferable just a cruiser) the best it can be. feel free to ask questions and get insight from people who have done this before. i dont think anyone here on this forum is trying to belittle your ideas or your project, they are just offering good, solid advice. take as much or as little of it as you like, but you would be smart to at least consider some of the posts that have offered you input. i hope this doesn't sound critical in anyway, i'm just trying to help you utilize one of the best fj resources on the planet right now. good luck with the rest of your build.
While at college I hope you will focus your time and energy on your studies. If you do get some spare time I hope you will take the opportunity to step back from your project and think a bit about where you are taking it. I especially hope you will be able to find some time to learn about offroad suspension systems that work. IMO your suspension has a number of shortcomings and I am afraid that you will be disappointed in the performance if you keep it in its current state. I also hope you will reevaluate your choice of front axle and steering. Anything remotely Toyota, hooked to the ends of that ram is going to break in short order! My comments assume, of course, that you intend to actually wheel the rig.
What's with all the negativity? Don't hate just because he has access to funds to build a really nice rig (yes, I'm jealous too). At least he's doing the work himself and not just paying someone to build it. Come awn guys there's no ONE way to do anything. Offer up your advice and don't get upset if he chooses another route.
Whether or not to C&T has been argued on this board more than any other topic (I think). It may be better, in may not matter. He's not ignoring the suggestion, he already said if it was a problem then he'd go back and do it. Let him figure out what's best for him.
IMHO the full hydro won't have any issues just because it's a Toyota axle. If done right it should be fine. Done wrong on ANY axle and, yes, things will break. I think your choice of tires and the upgrades to your axle will do fine. Only way to find out for sure is to run it and see.
Great build, can't wait to see some updates when you get back from school.
-Josh
Whether or not to C&T has been argued on this board more than any other topic (I think). It may be better, in may not matter. He's not ignoring the suggestion, he already said if it was a problem then he'd go back and do it. Let him figure out what's best for him.
IMHO the full hydro won't have any issues just because it's a Toyota axle. If done right it should be fine. Done wrong on ANY axle and, yes, things will break. I think your choice of tires and the upgrades to your axle will do fine. Only way to find out for sure is to run it and see.
Great build, can't wait to see some updates when you get back from school.
-Josh
If constructive criticism is seen as negativity, and advice based on hardcore fabrication and wheeling experience is summarily dismissed, then this forum has gone soft way beyond my tolerance limits.
I am sorry for the interuption...you folks can now go back to holding hands and praising each other's hardcore projects.
I am sorry for the interuption...you folks can now go back to holding hands and praising each other's hardcore projects.
Im with Jack on this one, and how tall are those Coilovers?? 18" or more?? Im in the process of going with wider axles to get rid of the Ghetto Spacers.. Id hate to see him finish it up to realize that its way too tall and the suspension wont work like he wants.. Fix it now, then you will have a Kick ass rig.. It looks like you have worked hard on it, and have a bunch of $$ in it.. Should be a cool rig when finished!
FWIW Medusa has built himself a fairly nice ride, and I can assure you there is no jealousy at hand.
Lets just look at a few issues I see from viewing the pics :
The frame end upper link mounts are not braced well and the length of the links is questionable at best.
The trianglulation achieved is not goin to center the axle, not enough leverage in the short upper links and the mounts are not braced or boxed to endure thoise forces.
The lowers should have been inboarded at frame end.
The crossmember that wqas removed would usually be replace with another that incorporates the previously mentioned mount location for the lowers.
I like the build, the coilovers and mounts look good, but may not function well.
From experience of trying to lay out a link and coilover set up on my own 40 I came to realize that with a 40 frame and LC axles it is almost impossible to create a link system that is any better than the leaf system. To take use of a link set up means modifying the LC frame with tube back half and/or using full width axles. Wondering if the front towers are getting a cross brace ? Wondering if any provision was made to mount locations on axle for thin Toyota axle wall thickness ?
Not critisizing the build just stating facts that have been proven
I believe one could follow a progression of this theory in searching and reading all about Erik D Lux's rig and it various states of suspension as IIRC he went down this path very closely.
Lets just look at a few issues I see from viewing the pics :
The frame end upper link mounts are not braced well and the length of the links is questionable at best.
The trianglulation achieved is not goin to center the axle, not enough leverage in the short upper links and the mounts are not braced or boxed to endure thoise forces.
The lowers should have been inboarded at frame end.
The crossmember that wqas removed would usually be replace with another that incorporates the previously mentioned mount location for the lowers.
I like the build, the coilovers and mounts look good, but may not function well.
From experience of trying to lay out a link and coilover set up on my own 40 I came to realize that with a 40 frame and LC axles it is almost impossible to create a link system that is any better than the leaf system. To take use of a link set up means modifying the LC frame with tube back half and/or using full width axles. Wondering if the front towers are getting a cross brace ? Wondering if any provision was made to mount locations on axle for thin Toyota axle wall thickness ?
Not critisizing the build just stating facts that have been proven
I believe one could follow a progression of this theory in searching and reading all about Erik D Lux's rig and it various states of suspension as IIRC he went down this path very closely.
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- Thread starter
- #78
hey to all of your comments about your opinion on the rig. the link mounts have been braced from the inside were the pictures don't show. if i braced it on the out side the bottom link would hit the bracket. the front hoops will get a removable brace i could have one welded in because i wouldn't have been able to put the engine in with it permanently installed. as to the axles i already have it all installed and with bobby longs so i am not going to just toss it. i am going to use it and if it breaks on me i will swap them out. i kept them because i was keeping the stock engine and didn't think that it would be able to snap it easily like a v8 would. i didn't turn the axles because i dint know how and i it is only going to be used as a off road rig. it wont be going fast at all so i didn't think it would matter much going 20 or less off road. im not ignoring your comments. you have good advice and i will use it when i can and i will take it into acount when i adjust anythings.
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Not turning them is going to make your steering more difficult and it will be harder on your steering components......if your axle's pinion and spring perches and outers were level with each other then you would be turning you wheels level. But b/c you are putting your pinion up (pointing your outers down) and not correcting your outers by rotating them back your wheels will be actually turning pointed down. Most people actually set their caster to the positive (tires turning slightly up) to make turning and road handling easier and better.....does this make sense? And there is plenty of info and how to on turning the LC axles and they are probably one of the easiest to do it on cause you grind or cut around the axle tube to a depth and turn your outers to where you want them (and really only need a $15 angle finder to do this) and reweld. You can practically take your whole outers off in one piece and slide your longs out, cut and weld, done. You could even leave your axle in if your links didn't get in the way of your cutting. Just a thought..........
It is not as much the link mounts (although the upper frame side mount will most likely not be strong enough) it is the overall design of the links. Have you used the 4 link calculator on this at all? The flat upper (or sloping down with the body weight on there) and angled up lowers will make for very quirky handling. The amount your rear shocks are inboarded in the rear will not allow them to work all that well, Sway will most likely be a huge issue.
IMHO, you put the cart before the horse on getting the frame galvanized and powercoated.. You know that if you need to repair it now any welding to the frame will release toxic gasses??
Go get a copy of the 4 link analyzer and plug in the numbers for your rear suspension. then report back. I bet it is going to be a bit of an eye opener for you.
Even going slow, a suspension that does not work, can cause HUGE headaches.. Just think of what your pinion in the rear is going to do when you compress the suspension?
You have the time and money to make this an awesome build. Don't make later decisions more expensive than they need to be..
IMHO, you put the cart before the horse on getting the frame galvanized and powercoated.. You know that if you need to repair it now any welding to the frame will release toxic gasses??
Go get a copy of the 4 link analyzer and plug in the numbers for your rear suspension. then report back. I bet it is going to be a bit of an eye opener for you.
Even going slow, a suspension that does not work, can cause HUGE headaches.. Just think of what your pinion in the rear is going to do when you compress the suspension?
You have the time and money to make this an awesome build. Don't make later decisions more expensive than they need to be..
