FJ40 Restoration with a 2UZ / R150 Manual Transmisson (1 Viewer)
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- Thread starter
- #62
So more work today, got the flywheel and clutch in and the drive train in the frame. The next part is making sure I can make the drive shaft work. In the last picture I have the axle and transfer case at close to the same angle, and there is a 6" difference in height, and the length I have to work with is about 17.5". Still seeing if I can make something work without moving the engine and transmission.
Vossie
#thecrazycruiserman
Now that looks familiar. Same issue as you man, the R151 tcase comes out much higher on the drive line than a stock tcase. I'm potentially extending my chassis (and tub for leg room) to help out on the angle. I've got a 7" difference in height in mine but slightly longer to work with, 26" from the pinion to the tcase flange
- Thread starter
- #64
What engine are you using? 26" seems like tons of room lol
Vossie
#thecrazycruiserman
1uz vvti, the a650e auto adapted the r151 tcase. My drive train is 80" from the front of the engine to the tcase flange. For me it's the angle that worries me.
- Thread starter
- #66
That actually doesn't look too bad, especially once you get more weight in the vehicle it will bring them closer. As crazy as I thought mine would be, I mocked up a shaft today, just to see how bad it might be, even with no weight on my chassis, it looks OK, but will the angles will improve the more parts I put on the rig.
Vossie
#thecrazycruiserman
Man I forgot just how short a 40 prop shaft is. You expect that will vibrate much at highway speeds?
- Thread starter
- #68
It shouldn't as long as when I'm at full ride weight the pinion is pointed straight at the transfer case. Even if it does I don't expect to be on the freeway tons with it.
- Thread starter
- #69
Just messing around with the driveshaft making sure the engine and transmission will work at there correct location.
Put the body on just to make sure everything worked as I remembered. So far everything is looking pretty good. I think I'm going to move my treat axle back an inch to make a little room for my driveshaft and it will center the wheel in the well a bit.
Put the body on just to make sure everything worked as I remembered. So far everything is looking pretty good. I think I'm going to move my treat axle back an inch to make a little room for my driveshaft and it will center the wheel in the well a bit.
Definitely move your rear axle back as much as you can.
If you're really ambitious you could cut the fenders and slide them back 3-4 inches and move the axle accordingly. Essentially you're repositioning the wheel opening further back, but keeps the general proportions similar to the untrained eye.
If you're really ambitious you could cut the fenders and slide them back 3-4 inches and move the axle accordingly. Essentially you're repositioning the wheel opening further back, but keeps the general proportions similar to the untrained eye.
- Thread starter
- #71
I assume to move it that far I would need to move the leaf spring mounts?
Just flipping the springs gives about 2.5". It's a good start. I pushed my wheel wells back about 2", and moved the axle back about 5", IIRC. I'm currently spring over on the rear, with 37s
- Thread starter
- #73
By flipping them does it change the spring rates and overall suspension feel?
It shouldn't really.
Zjohnsonua
SILVER Star
If you get really technical about it, flipping the springs changes the anti-wrap a bit but these springs are so short and thick anyway that it doesn't really matter.
- Thread starter
- #76
Are the things I'm pointing at on the spring pack for anti-wrap or something else? There are two in front of the axle and one behind it, so if I swap them around that's the only thing really different.
With SUA, wrap shouldn't really matter at all.
- Thread starter
- #78
Considering my spring perches are not welded on yet, would it be better to drill holes in them to move the able 2" or so, or better to flip the springs?
Up to you. If it were me, I would do both.
