The locking hub face are M8 1.25 and smaller bolts M6 1.0. I know the wheel cylinders were installed with the dial on bumper facing side on top (should have been on bottom for ease of adjustment access). I will look at FSM before I reassemble everything to determine what they did wrong on brake shoe springs.And, they used 5/16" screws on the hub face? And, the springs were assembled wrong on the brake shoes.
In the figure 5-30 in post #9 it says pack grease Into hub wheel bearings.post #9, 2nd picture, figure 5-28, someone forgot to install that seal or installed it wrong, my guess is it is not there. Why is molly grease not for wb ? It seems to work fine if you trap it in there with some old drum brake axle grease as a topper.
The FSM says to pack MP into the hub and bearings (including page below). Still not clear what caused the seal to be compromised. There was movement on the hub before removing 56mm nut. Also, there was no retaining clip on end of axel. After the axel nut there was a ring that screwed onto spindle and it had 4 holes in it with 2 small screws (not sure what this part is). As shown in image below, the sequence was nut, washer then ring. I’m ordering a Spindle Nut Kit from Cruiser Outfitters part#FA60011K link here as well as retaining clips to put everything back on correctly.So somebody packed the hub and wheel bearings with moly grease, damaged the grease seal on installation and that the source of the moly grease all over the brake parts.
I’ll have to research what the differences are with multi purpose vs moly grease. Wouldn’t by the definition of ‘multi purpose’ allow it to be used everywhere?Multi purpose grease for the wheel bearings, moly grease in the knuckle for the trunnion bearings and the birfield joint. Looks like you might have to shop for new spindles as well.
I’ll have to research what the differences are with multi purpose vs moly grease. Wouldn’t by the definition of ‘multi purpose’ allow it to be used everywhere?
The spindle just has some discoloration on it no measurable wear.
I actually tried the 5/16-18 and it would not fit into my thread sizing tool. The 1/2 inch socket was way too tight but 13mm socket fit well. I will still buy different screws. These locking hubs are cheap. I’m going to upgrade but am stumped on long birfield vs short. What do I have?Metric screws never have the radial lines on their face, IIAC. I'm thinking that those are 5/16-18, which is so close to 8x1.5mm that it takes someone who has already made that mistake, like myself, to know the difference.
Do those screws fit well into either a 12mm or 13mm socket? I'd bet that they fit better with a 1/2-inch.
One of the brake return springs is supposed to be on the back side of the pad flange.
This is very helpful. Below is an update to the sequence of washers and nut. The locking hubs are aftermarket for sure and if anyone can recommend a good replacement let me know. Cruiser Outfitters has Warn that will work with either longer birfield or short and 30 spline.Base on the pics of the order of your nut, washer and lock nut, imo, that's the wrong order and your possibly missing 1 washer. It appears you have some sort of a aftermarket Aisin style lock out which probably came with the round locknut and missing washer. Dizzy may be correct about the grade 5 markings on the head of the bolts and the bolts maybe SAE threads. As for 8mm or 5/16 heads, they are essentially the same. Anyways, I have a set of warn lockouts that use a similar locknut except it uses allen head set screws instead of machine screws. There should be the flat washer installed 1st with the internal tab, then the stk hex nut, then another washer(missing) with a bunch of holes in it and has an internal tab on it to go into the notch of the spindle, then the round lock nut. The round nut is tightened with a spanner wrench or a punch using the 2 extra hole in in. Once that nut is tighten then you tighten the 2 screws which engage in to the holes of the missing washer. Your outer bearing may have been loose because the washer with the internal tab was not against the bearing, instead the hex nut was. The aftermarket lock out may not allow you be able to use the 2nd stk hex nut you ordered because of clearance between the hub and lockout.
This is very helpful. Below is an update to the sequence of washers and nut. The locking hubs are aftermarket for sure and if anyone can recommend a good replacement let me know. Cruiser Outfitters has Warn that will work with either longer birfield or short and 30 spline. View attachment 2436610
View attachment 2436611