Builds FJ40 in a barn

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Man, what a great accomplishment! I remember the thread on this rig before you bought it. What a find! I have enjoyed reading/seeing your tastefull resurection. Fine work sir.:beer:
 
Working on brakes to be able to pull this truck out of the garage to at least have the smoky exhaust aimed near the outdoors.

Thought I’d post up a couple other things that got done this week. New battery tray from StainlessTrays.com is one damn fine piece of Cruiser gear. Holds my group-27 battery perfectly still, and will probably outlast me.

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The new tray will probably outlast me because I keep doing stupid stuff like bouncing parts off my face. This little beauty was courtesy of a poorly handled bleeder screw and a bench grinder. I am usually religious about wearing my full-face shield when I’m grinding. Left the shelield across the garage and got lazy. A couple inches down and this could have been a very bad night. Swelled up like a grape within minutes. Great reminder. PPE is no joke.

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Thanks. I have a busted up original one floating around. The one I really need is the knob for the transfer case. I have three broken ones that all broke in the same spot. Not inspiring a lot of confidence in that design, especially for the $40 they charge. Need to figure out the thread pitch and make something cool for that one. KABAR knife handle, old hand grenade, top of a femur... something manly and dangerous.
 
Progress halted by rotten brake hoses. I got the rear brakes bled without incident, then moved to the front. No fluid moving at all. Traced it back and eventually figured out that the soft hoses are completely plugged up. Decided I didn't want to waste time cleaning them out and bleeding only to have dodgy hoses worrying me. Going to order new hoses tomorrow.

Also noticed that the DS wheel cylinders, front and back, are frozen to some degree. Rears are completely shot. Fronts are working, but seem <100%. Hoping I can change the hoses and flush out the fronts to get them working long enough to sort out a disc swap. No sense in putting a bunch of money into the drums in the front. I'll probably eventually go discs in the rear, too, but not until I have big enough tires to need them. Guess I'll order up new wheel cylinders for the rear when I get the new hoses.

Remember in Shawshank Redemption, Red says that Geology is the study of pressure and time? That's true. What is also true is that resurrecting a Land Cruiser is the expenditure of money and time. I think I could pretty much sort out anything with an abundance of both of those.
 
Rebuild kits are cheap for those cylinders. Cruiser Outfitters has them. The challange in my cylinder rebuild was freeing all the stuck cylinders. Big Dogg posted and interesting way to free stuck drum type cylinders.

Finished rebuilding three out of my four rear wheel cylinders on my 2/71 FJ40. Of course, the fourth and final wheel cylinder piston and adjuster were stuck and would not come out of the cylinder. I tried putting it in a vise and using leverage to break it free, penetrating oil, compressed air, freezing the cylinder and then placing it in hot water, and a combination of the above. Still no success. I then found an online discussion about using grease. The discussion advised that grease guns could generate anywhere from several hundred pounds of pressure to several thousand. Sounded good to me. I went out and bought a package of zirk fittings and screwed them in the brake line and bleeder holes. One would act as a plug and the other would be where the grease would be injected. I then began pumping grease into the cylinder. After several pumps, the piston slowly pushed out of the cylinder. Once out, I removed the rubber cups and spring. (For some reason, the plastic spring seats were missing). I was then able to push the adjuster out with a press. It goes without saying that all the parts need to be thoroughly cleaned in the parts washer and with brake parts cleaner prior to reassembly. I was fully expecting the inside of the cylinder to be pitted and corroded, but that was not the case. Unfortunately, my rebuild kit does not contain the plastic spring seats. Now begins the search for the plastic seats... nothing is ever easy...

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Just read about that. May give it a shot. I have them soaking in PB Blaster tonight while still on the truck. We'll see if I can free up the adjusters enough to get them out and clean them up. Would love to not have to replace them all. Sounds like rebuilding them isn't too bad.
 
The Napa cylinders are cheap and decent quality. Around $25 each I believe. OEMs are around $75 each. @cruiseroutfit may have Japanese aftermarket too for less than oem.
 
The Napa cylinders are cheap and decent quality. Around $25 each I believe. OEMs are around $75 each. @cruiseroutfit may have Japanese aftermarket too for less than oem.

We do offer wheel cylinder rebuild kits ($8-12/each) and complete Japanese high-quality cylinders ($42/each)
Cruiser Outfitters

:D
 
Thanks. I have a busted up original one floating around. The one I really need is the knob for the transfer case. I have three broken ones that all broke in the same spot. Not inspiring a lot of confidence in that design, especially for the $40 they charge. Need to figure out the thread pitch and make something cool for that one. KABAR knife handle, old hand grenade, top of a femur... something manly and dangerous.

It seems like a good idea until you go to shift into 4-low without looking and accidentally pull the pin... I didn't even have that many friends to begin with...

If you're serious about the grenade I can check if I have any laying around (apparently it's a possibility that I have stuff like that just laying around my house. I guess that explains the friends thing).

Instructions:
1. Find a ripe grenade.
2. The first nut you pull out of your "jar-o' take-offs" will fit like a glove. If not, then you didn't do it the way I did. (which is the RIGHT way BTW. :))
3. Weld nut on the bottom of the nade.
4. Blue loc tite
5. Screw it on the shift lever. (mmm that feels right.)
The End.

Do not attempt unless you have a FULL 5 min to invest.

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2. The CCOT hose sucks. No pics, because I think it's been documented, but it is really poorly made. Seems like a combination of inferior materials and poor craftsmanship. There's no woven center to the hose, just a solid rubber-like hose that is thicker on one side than the other over the circumference of the hose. Just terrible. I'll keep it as a back-up, but I think my 45-year-old original will work better.

One more shiny photo of everything installed again.

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I just replaced my filler hose with a Gates 24712 Fuel Hose, 2" - 45 Degree, $22 on Amazon. It is long, but I just trimmed it at each end. Fit perfectly.
 
Another thought, I know Brian (@tonsofun) has been messing with his 3D printer...

I'll hit him up. I have 3D printers at work, but the PLA plastic isn't very durable. It gets pretty brittle. I could mock it up and send it off to get printed in ABS or nylon, I guess.

We'll have to get a 40 work party going sometime when either of ours are actually drivable.
 
Big day today. I got the truck started last week, but didn't feel safe driving it without working brakes. Safety first. Spent the week ordering brake parts and waiting for everything to show up. New brake soft hoses showed up and then the new Japanese wheel cylinders for the rear axle showed up from @cruiseroutfit on Saturday. Thanks for getting those out same day I ordered them, guys!

Got the brakes all dialed in today, had a buddy help me bleed them, and bolted the hard top down enough for a trip around the block. My daughter had called dibs on the passenger seat for the first drive, so I cleaned up tools while I waited for her to get home. I felt like I was waiting for a child to be born. We hopped in and pulled out of the garage two minutes after she got home.

One quick trip around the block, then a quick trip up to the gas station and then another trip around the block with the wife. Great weekend of wrenching on the truck, great time driving with the family, and the most enjoyable fill-up at the gas station since my first car when I was 16.

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The list of things to address after the first drive:

  1. Oil pressure gauge not working. Shame on me for not noticing that until I'd been out for a few miles, but everything sounded good and peeking inside the valve cover it looks like I'm getting oil to the top. I'll dig into that a bit more tonight.
  2. Weatherstripping for the hard top. I put four bolts on to hold it down enough for a trip around the block, but I need to sort the top out properly.
  3. Exhaust leaks are bad. Need to sort out which manifold gasket I want to use and get a muffler and some new pipe. I've got a nice set of Downey headers waiting in the wings.
  4. Lube the driveshaft. Sounded ok, but it needs it.
  5. Front end service. I'm sure 25 years of sitting has taken most of the oil out of the wheel bearing grease in the knuckles. I expect it's pretty much a big, waxy mess in there. I might do this sooner than exhaust if it looks like #6 will take a while, but...
  6. Disc brake swap in the front. The brakes aren't that bad, but the front cylinders are in need of some love and adjusting these drum brakes sucks.
  7. Door pin bushings. Pretty loose. Really, the doors just need to be redone. New weatherstipping would be great. Too bad they aren't available. Likely going to just put something generic in there until CityRacer has something.
 
Glad they arrived safe and sound!

Let us know if we can help with your other parts needs. If your oil situation ends up being a bad sender (easy to test with an ohm meter or ground out the sending unit wire and see if the gauge spikes) but we also stock the manifold gaskets and of course all the axle parts too!
 

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