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Good plan on making sure the brakes worked before the test drive. I had worked on the brakes a little, like new fluid, but I was so excited I got mine running after it sat for 15 years. I took it for a little test drive in the neighborhood on the way back down the road I got it up to third gear. Started to try and slow down (oily front drums) to take the 90 degree, no real braking was happening. I thought I was going to end up in my neighbors yard, but managed to get it slowed down enough to make the corner.
Congratulations on the new ride and getting it running.
Congratulations on the new ride and getting it running.
C6H12O6
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- #263
Thanks, man. It's been fun. Trying to take it slowly and make sure ducks are all in a row, but it's hard.
I double/triple checked the brakes to make sure pressure was holding, and tested them at the top of the driveway before I took off. Still no parking brake, thanks to a leaky output shaft on the transfer case, so that probably needs to be next on the list. The growing list. The expensive and growing list.
I had so many things that I've ignored and just put on the Phase II list of jobs for after it was running. Well, it's running and driving now, so I guess I'm officially in Phase II. The first three will likely be parking brake, exhaust, and getting all the lights working.
I double/triple checked the brakes to make sure pressure was holding, and tested them at the top of the driveway before I took off. Still no parking brake, thanks to a leaky output shaft on the transfer case, so that probably needs to be next on the list. The growing list. The expensive and growing list.
I had so many things that I've ignored and just put on the Phase II list of jobs for after it was running. Well, it's running and driving now, so I guess I'm officially in Phase II. The first three will likely be parking brake, exhaust, and getting all the lights working.
My parking brake worked then stopped. I thought the cable broke, but it ended up being a little c-clamp came off a pin the hold the cable arm.
The rear seal leaks, but they don't leak into the parking brake. The backing plate is cone shaped toward the back of the truck. To stop the oil from contaminate the parking brake. I'm no expert and could be wrong about the oil contamination. Mine leaks and hasn't contaminated my parking brake.
Just read through the thread. It looks like the Safeway station off Murray and Scholls Ferry Rd? My sister lives nearby in Cooper Mountain. I just got an 4/74 basket case and I’ve been reading thru build threads for tips/ideas.
C6H12O6
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- #269
Updates! It's been a busy couple weeks and my hands have been too dirty to type.
Addressing the list above has been fun:
Addressing the list above has been fun:
- Oil pressure gauge is now working. Just dirty contacts.
- Weatherstripping for the hard top is installed. By myself. That was not so fun. Definitely doable, but would have been less bloody with tow people. Or three. For the record, a man-sized finger will just barely fit in between the top and tub when it slips off the wood block holding it up.
- Exhaust leaks are taken care of. I ordered a Remflex gasket and installed the set of Downey/Mark's headers I had waiting in the wings. The old ones did not come out in one piece. Good thing they were just scrap metal before I removed them. I'll post pics up soon, but I had the local exhaust shop build a 2.5" exhaust with a Magnaflow muffler all tucked up above the frame and out of the way. Great sound at idle and not too loud when you get into it.
- Lubed the driveshaft. Well, the rear, anyway. I pulled it and chipped all the old crusty grease off the u-joints and out of the slip yoke. Pushed clean grease in and it is 95% better. One u-joint is probably not long for this world, but it'll do. Going to reassess after running it for a bit and getting some more good grease through it.
- Front end service is on hold for now, pending #6.
- Disc brake swap in the front may be postponed. We'll see. My source for a complete 40 front axle that already had a 60 disc upgrade is being sold with the 40 it is currently in. I have a line on another 60 axle, but need to check it out.
- Door pin bushings are a dream. Well, not the install, which relies on me getting out the old pins, but once that last one came out, it was a piece of cake. Sooooo much better that now I can hear all sorts of new noises that I couldn't hear before.
C6H12O6
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- #270
8. Yes, 8. I've added to the list. Like I said, it's been a busy couple weeks. I got all the lights working. I had headlights and new LED side markers working after some cleaning of contacts and crusty grounds. Dash cluster lights had to be returned, as SuperBrightLEDs shows the wrong lights for the dash of a '74. LEDs for the later wedge lights are en route.
I couldn't get any of the flashing lights to work for a while, and thought I had a bad flasher unit. I had a spare... no dice. I cleaned up the contacts, no dice. I looked at the wiring diagram andno dice realized I was using the wrong plug under the dash. The lights worked fine. Sort of. I could get the right side to flash, and the hazards to flash, but not the left (DS). It would blink on, make one blink off noise, but not go off. Just steady on.
I also cleaned up the rear tail light clusters, checked the contacts, and added dielectric grease. Brighter, but still no DS blinker, and some of them seemed to really come and go with brightness. I noticed the little metal nubs on the back of the bulbs were pretty flat from sitting there for 25 years (44 years?), so I tried new bulbs. Instant improvement. Everything works as it should, except the new LED license plate lights. That's a wiring issue. I know where it is, but haven't had time to sort it out yet.
I couldn't get any of the flashing lights to work for a while, and thought I had a bad flasher unit. I had a spare... no dice. I cleaned up the contacts, no dice. I looked at the wiring diagram and
I also cleaned up the rear tail light clusters, checked the contacts, and added dielectric grease. Brighter, but still no DS blinker, and some of them seemed to really come and go with brightness. I noticed the little metal nubs on the back of the bulbs were pretty flat from sitting there for 25 years (44 years?), so I tried new bulbs. Instant improvement. Everything works as it should, except the new LED license plate lights. That's a wiring issue. I know where it is, but haven't had time to sort it out yet.
C6H12O6
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- Thread starter
- #271
9. Valve adjustment, timing, and carb idle adjustment. Better, but still not quite right. I've been pouring over all the related threads and think I have some vacuum issues to sort out. It will idle with a little fluctuation, vacuum fairly steady (+/- 1") at 15", and sounds ok, but just doesn't want to run well unless the choke is out a little.
I can hear a little whistle on acceleration, and think I have a couple stripped carb studs on the intake manifold. I pulled them before sending the manifold and header to the machine shop to get planed to the same thickness. I didn't want them getting banged up, but should have just left them alone. One was a little crooked and came out with some aluminum on the threads. Upon reinstalling them, the two studs closest to the head never really tightened up, they just started pulling out of the manifold. Need to fix the threads and see if it'll seal down better.
Also, when the timing was checked, the BB wasn't even in the window. The distributor was corroded in place and was tough to get freed up to adjust it, but I got it loose. Timing is now solid and just about the edge of the window (better vacuum than lined up at 7° BTDC), and the idle screw is adjusted for the best vacuum, but it still surges and misbehaves on acceleration with the choke off.
I can hear a little whistle on acceleration, and think I have a couple stripped carb studs on the intake manifold. I pulled them before sending the manifold and header to the machine shop to get planed to the same thickness. I didn't want them getting banged up, but should have just left them alone. One was a little crooked and came out with some aluminum on the threads. Upon reinstalling them, the two studs closest to the head never really tightened up, they just started pulling out of the manifold. Need to fix the threads and see if it'll seal down better.
Also, when the timing was checked, the BB wasn't even in the window. The distributor was corroded in place and was tough to get freed up to adjust it, but I got it loose. Timing is now solid and just about the edge of the window (better vacuum than lined up at 7° BTDC), and the idle screw is adjusted for the best vacuum, but it still surges and misbehaves on acceleration with the choke off.
C6H12O6
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- #272
Next up:
- New leaf spring bushings. Going to pull one to see if I can re-use the shackles and pins. Hope so, as I'd rather wait to spend that $$$ until I know what I'm doing with the suspension. The bushings are shot, so they need to be address now. One OEM front shackle is bent pretty badly, so it crab-walks down the road a little. Hoping to find one OEM shackle locally to get things tracking straight.
- Parking brake. I need one and I'm tired of carrying wheel chocks around.
- Seat position mod. I need more leg room to shift into reverse and keep the window all the way up. My knees hit the shift lever and window crank handle. Even another inch would help. Going to look into flipping the floor mounts. Would be nice if it was that easy.
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thebigredrocker
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Impressive work. My understanding is when you upgrade to LED’s you need a different flasher. I got an audible flasher from coolerman.
Seen a couple guru’s mention they use only fel-pro gaskets dry, hopefully your hunches will solve the vac leak issue though.
Look forward the hearing your exhaust rumble.
Seen a couple guru’s mention they use only fel-pro gaskets dry, hopefully your hunches will solve the vac leak issue though.
Look forward the hearing your exhaust rumble.
C6H12O6
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- #274
Yeah, I didn't want to throw money at LED bulbs for the turn signals with the condition of my rear tail light units. They're rusted pretty badly and really need to be replaced. Maybe if I get new housings and I can figure out how to seal them up a little.
My OEM flashers still work great with the standard incandescent light bulbs in the flashing spots. Pretty much everything else is getting LEDs.
My OEM flashers still work great with the standard incandescent light bulbs in the flashing spots. Pretty much everything else is getting LEDs.
C6H12O6
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- #277
Been a while since I've listened to old school valves clicking away. Does this sound about right?
I adjusted them with the engine hot and off at TDC. When I started it up, the intake felt great, but the exhaust valves were too tight—I could not quite get the feeler gauge in.
The idle is way smoother than it was, but it still sounds a little bubbly through the tailpipe and has a little RPM dip once in a while. You can hear it at the end of the video above.
I adjusted them with the engine hot and off at TDC. When I started it up, the intake felt great, but the exhaust valves were too tight—I could not quite get the feeler gauge in.
The idle is way smoother than it was, but it still sounds a little bubbly through the tailpipe and has a little RPM dip once in a while. You can hear it at the end of the video above.
reddog90
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Any updates?
just saw this. That sounds just like mine did. I'd say its good. what's new?
