Fj40 Alcan highway help. (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Aug 19, 2013
Threads
4
Messages
14
Hello,
Over the past two years we've rebuilt our 1976 (ish) fj40 "Emma" with the help of many people and this forum. We are attempting to drive her to South America from Soldotna, AK. ATM we are in Fort Saint John, BC 11 days into our trip. We are having some carb issues. It seems to start up fine, but once she warms up she runs rough and misses/chugs and sputters. We can keep her running by using half choke, but at low speeds she doesn't idle and, very embarrassing, stalls are inevitable. I did some reading on the forums, and some say it might be the choke getting hung up or the mixture being a little off or even a manifold vacuum leak. I intend to investigate more when we make camp tonight. Does anyone know a good 2f mechanic in the Northwest US that might be able to help with the carb/timing issue? We'll be in Spokane and then Boise in next few weeks. If anyone is interested in following our trip (assuming we make it out of Canada) our Facebook page is https://www.facebook.com/StraightSixStraightSouth.
Cheers,
S
:steer:
Our trucks specs are as follows:
rebuilt Desmogged 2F
Trollhole carb
trollhole electic dizzy
Delco Alt
2.5" HFS lift
4 speed tans w/ pto winch
truck 2.jpg
truck.jpg
 
Most likely a vacuum leak. Check for cracked vacuum lines, loose carburetor or intake bolts. If it runs with the choke on it's running lean and the choke is richening the mixture to a point in runs well.

I concur. Get some starting fluid or carb cleaner and spray it around at idle. When idle increases, you have found a leak. Careful of spraying it onto the exhaust manifold and making fire.

Check the carb mounting bolts and hope you don't have an intake manifold leak. You'd have to pull the manifolds for a new gasket. :eek:
 
Post this in the Peace Canyon Swamp Donkey and Coastal Cruiser sections on this form. They are listed at the bottom of the list of forums menu (forum jump box at the bottom of the page).

You will have friends to help you all the way down through BC. The greater Vancouver area has several very good cruiser shops.
 
Thanks so much for the responses. I think our main problem was a awful vacuum leak under the carb. We coasted into a campsite in BC and took the carb off and the gasket that sits on the manifold was cracked and dried up. We cut some "new" gaskets out of road maps and got state side. We have some new "real" gaskets coming from SoR. I'll let you know if that helps.
Thanks again for all the help,
Spencer
 
Really? Didn't the trollhole come with a gasket?
In any case you could get one at the nearest NAPA auto, or get some gasket material and make your own.

If you replace it and you've still got issues, it may be a clogged in the idle passages somewhere. I assume that you've checked the idle solenoid?


Enjoy the trip.
 
Hope you get it sorted out. Following your trip via the facebook page now. Safe travels!
 
The gaskets are supposed to be bonded to the carb insulator. Extra gaskets make extra places for leaks. If your carb insulator is good and your manifold surface is flat, you should run without gaskets or sealants

Mine is bad on one side, so I use one gasket bonded to the insulator with old-school black permatex, I believe #1. It's the only thing that will hold up against direct exposure to gasoline. Thanks to JimC for this info.

Here's a picture of a carb insulator with a bad gasket:

DSCN2855.jpg
 
Good to know about the bonded gasket. We just set placed a cut gasket on the insulator. When I was playing with the carb I noticed our manifold gasket seems black in one spot. We're going to head to West Washington and visit TorFab. From what I'm told, he's the guy. I'll post once we remedy the issue. Thanks for all the replies.
Cheers
 
If you're headed south on I-5 after that visit and need help I'm halfway between Seattle and Portland so let me know.
PM'd my phone number.
 
The gaskets are supposed to be bonded to the carb insulator. Extra gaskets make extra places for leaks. If your carb insulator is good and your manifold surface is flat, you should run without gaskets or sealants

Mine is bad on one side, so I use one gasket bonded to the insulator with old-school black permatex, I believe #1. It's the only thing that will hold up against direct exposure to gasoline. Thanks to JimC for this info.



Check out Hylomar Universal Blue. Working temps of -50F to 480F or if you need better their advanced formula is -50F to 660F. Resistant to pretty much everything. Their Aerogrades are standard sealants for GE , Rolls Royce and Pratt Whitney turbine engines
 
following! what a trip. super jealous.

Good luck with the carb.
 
What a trip indeed! Can't wait to see more pics - please post 'em up.

Would love to learn more about your rig - the roof setup is phenominal!

Best of luck on your travels-

Jeff
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom