FJ40 3speed to 4speed Clutch Problems... HELP! (1 Viewer)

Jdc1

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6".

In this truck, there is no possible way to raise it any higher. Same with the brake pedal. I've adjusted to clutch pedal as far as I can so it's just a touch higher than the brake pedal but not noticeable.
Can you post a pic of under the dash? Do you have the permanent or the removable buxket?
 
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Just asking one more time..... Have you confirmed your master cylinder push rod is traveling 1 5/8" when you depress the clutch pedal? This must be verified!! Unless you have this travel there is no way you can move your slave cylinder rod enough.
 

Rainman

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Okay, that would sound like a problem as it does NOT travel that far but consider this, the pedal sitting exactly where it is now pushed the exact same distance (possibly a little less) and worked with the other drive train in it. It pushes something like 1.25".
IMG_1178.jpeg
 

Rainman

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Okay. Maybe this is it but I don'e see any way around it...

I get exactly 1" push from the MC. That's it.

This crates a problem. The only way to get more travel is to move the pedal forward, right? If that's so, that means the clutch pedal would have to be and inch or two higher than the brake pedal. That can't be right either.

That the ........ ... . . .. . . . . .. . ....... . .. ... . .... . . .. . .. .
 
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With 1" master travel, you would get about 3/4" slave travel.

Is it possible your master rod is too long? If so, that would limit your master travel.
 

Rainman

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You know, may be. Anyone know how long it should be? How does the piston in the MC travel out farther if it is? What pushed the MC piston into the push rod?

How do i get it farther back in the cylinder? This sounds promising.
 

Rainman

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Never mind. That's not it.

I forgot, the piston in the MC isn't removable. I just disconnected the MC from the brake pedal and yes, I have it adjusted most of the way out but without the pin, I couldn't move the piston out any farther. There as almost no play in the rod front to back.

By the way, the clutch panel is maybe a half inch or so above the brake pedal after I adjusted the pedal stop all the way out. It was only about an 8th in anyway.

This is just unreal.
 
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I would suggest disconnecting the bracket at your clutch pedal, and see if you can pull the rod in the direction of the clutch pedal. If you can, that suggests your rod is adjusted too long and that might get you another 5/8" of travel.
 

Rainman

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I did. Post 87.
Pulled the pin and tried to pull the rod out. No go. It's all the way out.

I REALLY wanted that to be it. It isn't.
 
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I see you did your test ahead of what I mentioned. Good for you. Your slave for a '76 should have a 13/16" bore. With your '76 master (3/4" bore) your slave travel should be slightly more than 1 1/4" with your '76 slave (13/16" bore). You have confirmed your real problem is that you are not getting the full 1 5/8" travel out of your '76 master.

You are correct that if you went to a smaller bore slave cylinder, you would get more slave travel than what you are seeing right now. The reality is..... with your 3/4" bore master travel at only 1", you would get the same 1" travel with a 3/4" bore slave cyl. Not good.
 

Rainman

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Is there a Slave with a smaller bore? I have 3 of them but I think 3/4"is the smallest I have. Man, a 1/2"bore slave would be great right about now.
 
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When you push your clutch pedal toward the floor.... (1) how far from the floor does it end up and (2) what stops the movement (master rod at end of travel or clutch pedal hits a stop)?

Another way to ask the question..... When you disconnect the master from the clutch pedal, can you push the master rod in the full 1 5/8"?
 

Rainman

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The pedal hits the firewall. I can't tell if the piston can go any farther. Haven't figured out how to push that hard after it gets there.
 

Jdc1

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The pedal hits the firewall. I can't tell if the piston can go any farther. Haven't figured out how to push that hard after it gets there.
What happens if you disconnect the pedal, will the pushrod travel farther?
 

pb4ugo

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The pedal hits the firewall. I can't tell if the piston can go any farther. Haven't figured out how to push that hard after it gets there.
I was wondering this too. Whats the full stroke of the master w/o the pedal connected and whats the stroke of master connected to the pedal? You could open the bleeder at the S/C and push the plunger of the master w/o the pedal connected. If the master and the S/C are correct. Did Toyota offer different pedal assemblies/pivot points? I know I swapped a 4 speed in my 72 back in the 80's and don't recall having to change the master and S/C, except I think, to the other side of the B/H.

I've run across a lot of discussions about clutch components in the past. I recall people mentioning you can either use 3 speed or 4 speed parts but you cant inter mix them. IDK, just throwing possibilities out there at this point.
 
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middlecalf

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I only know early rigs (‘65 and earlier), and not much at that either. But the brake pedal and clutch pedal are different shaped in the early rigs. If same for your year, are the pedals swapped? Can’t tell from your pic.
 

Rainman

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Pulled the pedal out. (Better than pulling the engine.) Stuck a screwdriver through the pin holes and gave it a shove. Even put blue tape at the limit it's been traveling. (I can't see up close anymore even with the trifocals on) And what do you know... It went the same exact stinkin' distance. I even tried multiple times. I'm not nearly as strong as I used to be but i'm still strong enough. It 'Hits" at that 1" mark.

Are the pedals swapped from what? No, the two pedals are in the right place. Brake on the right clutch on the left. If that's what you mean. I doubt another year pedal that mounts differently would fit in a '70.
 

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