- Thread starter
- #1,061
These little rubber mounts fit great.
Builds FJ 45 Extended Cab Custom Vehicle Build Finally Begins (9 Viewers)
- Thread starter D'Animal
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #1,062
The uprights are made from 1 1/2" x 4" channel.
Holes for the engine side of the radiator were drilled so the exsisting bolt holes could be used.
The top of the side on the front of the uprights were notched to fit around the unique shapes of the radiator in that area.
I'm not done with the front, I have to come up with a better way to support the front of the radiator.
Tabs with bolts will be used.
Holes for the engine side of the radiator were drilled so the exsisting bolt holes could be used.
The top of the side on the front of the uprights were notched to fit around the unique shapes of the radiator in that area.
I'm not done with the front, I have to come up with a better way to support the front of the radiator.
Tabs with bolts will be used.
- Thread starter
- #1,063
Bottom support bolted to the uprights shown here.
I angled the bottom of the uprights so the radiator will pivot out, like the bib is suppose to. It will make changing a water pump way easier. The angle is dialed in that the radiator cannot be damaged by my bib mount when tipped out.
I angled the bottom of the uprights so the radiator will pivot out, like the bib is suppose to. It will make changing a water pump way easier. The angle is dialed in that the radiator cannot be damaged by my bib mount when tipped out.
- Thread starter
- #1,064
Clearances are good so I installed the FJ 60 Fan Clutch assy.
I used the neighbors mill and lathe to machine a hub to make it all work but it bolted right on when I was done.
I used the neighbors mill and lathe to machine a hub to make it all work but it bolted right on when I was done.
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- Thread starter
- #1,065
For the Top of the radiator support, I used the FJ 40 radiator stabilizing arms.
You can also see that I knotched the uprights so I could get to my headlight connectors.
You can also see that I knotched the uprights so I could get to my headlight connectors.
- Thread starter
- #1,066
If I had the correct radiator hoses and power steering lines, I would taken it for a quick spin.
- Thread starter
- #1,068
Great idea.
I'm plumbing the power steering through the tranmission cooler in the radiator in preperation for the Hydro assist. I'm thinking with the added volume and the cooling, it might do OK.
If not, a remote res will be added.
What do you think?
I have never had a hydro system that worked the way I thought it should.
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nicely done danno...
- Thread starter
- #1,070
I picked up some radiator hoses last night on my way home from work. I could not believe I actually found radiator hoses that would go on. They are not exact fits so a little modification will have to be done.
I need to move fan closer to the radiator for the hoses to work.
Time for a machine shop to make me a new clutch fan adapter hub that is 1 1/4" thicker.
I need to move fan closer to the radiator for the hoses to work.
Time for a machine shop to make me a new clutch fan adapter hub that is 1 1/4" thicker.
- Thread starter
- #1,072
I used a GoodYear # 61323
The bends are perfect the housing side is perfect. The radiator side is a bit on the big side. Since I just had the radiator rebuild and recored, I'm going to take it back and heave them install a bigger neck to it matches the hose.
I want common parts on this rig so any autoparts store can hook me up. I'm not a fan of the multiple reducers that I have seen on some of the other websites. IMHO a radiator hose should be a maximum of three pieces not including the clamps. Idealy one piece but many came from the factory with a metal pipe in between the oulet side of the radiator and the inlet side of the engine, ie. most all FJ's, late 60's and early 70 GM products, etc.
In the bottom picture I'm actually holding the hose out of the way to show the inlet nipple.
The bends are perfect the housing side is perfect. The radiator side is a bit on the big side. Since I just had the radiator rebuild and recored, I'm going to take it back and heave them install a bigger neck to it matches the hose.
I want common parts on this rig so any autoparts store can hook me up. I'm not a fan of the multiple reducers that I have seen on some of the other websites. IMHO a radiator hose should be a maximum of three pieces not including the clamps. Idealy one piece but many came from the factory with a metal pipe in between the oulet side of the radiator and the inlet side of the engine, ie. most all FJ's, late 60's and early 70 GM products, etc.
In the bottom picture I'm actually holding the hose out of the way to show the inlet nipple.
- Thread starter
- #1,073
The top radiator hose, I used the GATES Part # 21729.
I will be installing a metal pipe in the center so I can shorten the hose. The bends and sizes are perfect.
I will be installing a metal pipe in the center so I can shorten the hose. The bends and sizes are perfect.
- Thread starter
- #1,074
I have some clearance issue that I do not like.
I like the way the hose lays since it allows easy access to the secondary oil fill tube. I have the #1 valve cover for oil fill as a primary.
It is too close to the fan. I will be having fan clutch spacer made to set the fan 30mm further into the housing. This will give me the clearance for the hose and should make the fan work more effectively and protect it from water crossing, etc.
I like the way the hose lays since it allows easy access to the secondary oil fill tube. I have the #1 valve cover for oil fill as a primary.
It is too close to the fan. I will be having fan clutch spacer made to set the fan 30mm further into the housing. This will give me the clearance for the hose and should make the fan work more effectively and protect it from water crossing, etc.
What if you used a bent rather than straight piece of pipe and arched the rad hose upward and set it back a bit? Would you have enough clearance under it to get at the oil filler? My understanding is that half the depth of the fan should be exposed behind the shroud, as it throws air out radially as much as it pulls it back axially.
Man, that's one ugly engine! ;p
Nice work and welds though
Nice work and welds though
I have really enjoyed following this build thread.
Great work. great ideas and creative use of parts and pieces.
I love the 4BT !!!!!!!! Don't care what color it is, as long as it runs !!!!!!
With the red and blue, you are almost patriotic........just paint some parts white !!!!!!
AWESOME BUILD !!!!!!!
Great work. great ideas and creative use of parts and pieces.
I love the 4BT !!!!!!!! Don't care what color it is, as long as it runs !!!!!!
With the red and blue, you are almost patriotic........just paint some parts white !!!!!!
AWESOME BUILD !!!!!!!
only got a couple weeks left so you can bring it to rubithon!!!!!!!! better get crackin!!!!
don't think about showin' up without it.....
don't think about showin' up without it.....
Very cool build. Is this going to make it to Rubithon? My old 4BT80 will be running around (NV4500/orion).
Good choice on the mechanical fan and FJ60 radiator. These engines run cool around town, but long hills... the heat builds and builds. Especially if the fuel has been turned up. I've worked on three different 4BT80's, and they all had overheating problems. Mechanical fans and larger radiators fixed them. Hope to see you at there next week (I'll be in the green extra-cab 40... aka FJ46)
Good choice on the mechanical fan and FJ60 radiator. These engines run cool around town, but long hills... the heat builds and builds. Especially if the fuel has been turned up. I've worked on three different 4BT80's, and they all had overheating problems. Mechanical fans and larger radiators fixed them. Hope to see you at there next week (I'll be in the green extra-cab 40... aka FJ46)
