Fitment of Pioneer TS-G series speakers behind OEM grills

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

BltByKrmn said:
I have 6.5 for the rear as well but haven't figured out how to mount them, how did you do it? Did you mount them directly to the door panel instead of the metal door itself?
Click to expand...

I drove the screws into the panel and the door. I used a metal bit to drill through the door then screwed them in. Be careful or you could slip and put a hole in the speakers!
 
sleepycruiser said:
I drove the screws into the panel and the door. I used a metal bit to drill through the door then screwed them in. Be careful or you could slip and put a hole in the speakers!
Click to expand...

Do you remember what size screws you used? This is actually a pretty good idea, might try sheet metal screws through the panel into the door. Will have to use the Pioneer grills but my OEM grills are dented anyway.
 
BltByKrmn said:
Do you remember what size screws you used? This is actually a pretty good idea, might try sheet metal screws through the panel into the door. Will have to use the Pioneer grills but my OEM grills are dented anyway.
Click to expand...

I used the screws that came with the Pioneers. I did manage to break 2 drill bits. Haha
 
sleepycruiser said:
I drove the screws into the panel and the door. I used a metal bit to drill through the door then screwed them in. Be careful or you could slip and put a hole in the speakers!
Click to expand...

Sorry for all the questions, but did you use the mounting tabs or the holes on the inner ring of the Pioneers?

I picked up 4 1" self tapping stainless steel screws and used the outer tabs, installed extremely easy and looks great.

Until I realized I now don't have a way to attach the Pioneer grill. :confused:
 
BltByKrmn said:
Sorry for all the questions, but did you use the mounting tabs or the holes on the inner ring of the Pioneers?

I picked up 4 1" self tapping stainless steel screws and used the outer tabs, installed extremely easy and looks great.

Until I realized I now don't have a way to attach the Pioneer grill. :confused:
Click to expand...

The Pioneers come with a plastic rim that the grill will attach too. I used those....it goes around the speaker and you just line up the holes with the ring and the speaker...screw it to the door and then press the grill on.
 
sleepycruiser said:
The Pioneers come with a plastic rim that the grill will attach too. I used those....it goes around the speaker and you just line up the holes with the ring and the speaker...screw it to the door and then press the grill on.
Click to expand...

I was counting the plastic rim as part of the grill, sorry for the confusion. I know the grill pops out from the plastic rim, I was just wondering if you attached the plastic rim separate from mounting the speakers. Sounds like you used the holes that line up with the plastic rim vs the outside tabs as I did.
 
For anyone else wondering, the 6.5" will fit in the rear hole without cutting:

Pioneer.jpg


As mentioned above, you will need a 1" self tapping screw to mount them, but that's it. I used the outer tabs since it offered better screw placement into the door sheet metal, but now I have to find a way to mount the Pioneer grills to the inner ring of holes.
 
mdmiked said:
Very nice, I've got the same setup for speakers f/r.

Not sure if you bypassed factory amp, if not I'd highly recommend it. My speakers sounded about 5x better afterwards and it got rid of this strange engine noise that was playing through the speakers.
Click to expand...
Do all the speakers go to the factory amp? or just the sub? I was going to replace all my blown speakers this weekend. I have a 4 channel amp in my pickup truck i was gonna borrow if needed. I was also debating replacing the head unit too, is that worth the effort?
 
american outlaw said:
Do all the speakers go to the factory amp? or just the sub? I was going to replace all my blown speakers this weekend. I have a 4 channel amp in my pickup truck i was gonna borrow if needed. I was also debating replacing the head unit too, is that worth the effort?
Click to expand...

I just replaced my head unit and disconnected the stock amp and that has vastly improved the sound quality. All I have is the 6.5 pioneers in the front doors and 4 in the back doors.

I'm not quite sure which speakers are connected to the amp or which ones go to the H/U, if you do end up replacing the H/U, you will most likely buy a wiring harness that will give you power to the door speakers but not dash/cargo speakers, unless you were to set something up differently. Honestly, it sounds better to me just having the 4 door speakers.

Down the road I will hook up an amp under the DS seat and connect a better sub to it. As of right now, I'm very happy with my set up.
 
american outlaw said:
Do all the speakers go to the factory amp? or just the sub? I was going to replace all my blown speakers this weekend. I have a 4 channel amp in my pickup truck i was gonna borrow if needed. I was also debating replacing the head unit too, is that worth the effort?
Click to expand...

Do you have a LC or LX? In the LX, I believe the 4 door speakers are connected to the OEM amp.
 
Very timely discovery of this thread - I desperately need a new head unit and speakers!
 
american outlaw said:
Do all the speakers go to the factory amp? or just the sub? I was going to replace all my blown speakers this weekend. I have a 4 channel amp in my pickup truck i was gonna borrow if needed. I was also debating replacing the head unit too, is that worth the effort?
Click to expand...
The factory amp essentially converts a 4 channel output (from stock H/U) to an output for all the speakers. Whenever you bypass the factory amp, you will disable all but the 4 speakers in each door. Also, yes it is absolutely worth it to upgrade your head unit. It should provide just as much power (if not more) than the factory amp, not to mention you gain an aux input such as bluetooth or line-in.
 
mdmiked said:
The factory amp essentially converts a 4 channel output (from stock H/U) to an output for all the speakers. Whenever you bypass the factory amp, you will disable all but the 4 speakers in each door. Also, yes it is absolutely worth it to upgrade your head unit. It should provide just as much power (if not more) than the factory amp, not to mention you gain an aux input such as bluetooth or line-in.
Click to expand...

Interesting. They must have done something funky with mine then, as my amp is long gone (I have an aftermarket head unit now) but all of my speakers work including the ones above the windows in the rear and the little guys in the dash.
 
So I've read through all these threads and have seen very little discussion of replacing or upgrading the factory amp. Along with a new H/U, there are so many compact amps these days, it seems reasonable an aftermarket solution exists to fit in the space behind the glovebox. Anyone done this?
 
interesting.....learn something new in car audio all the time...

I would simply submit - for LC - if you are going to upgrade you h/u -
modern h/u have more then sufficient enough clean internal power (50x4 or 75x40) to thusly power
2 - 6" midranges & 2 - 3.5" rears.

so installing an external amp (be it under your seat or in the back) is not really cost effective.
no doubt - fully amplified channels are "better" - but that mostly applies to say front components (mid and tweets)
and full rear (6x9 - just like he discussed in the video) - then you are also talking a need for both crossovers and equalization...
again - not something that is need for the basic pioneer tsr upgrade for $80 total.

now if you want to an amp for bass / subwoofer - that is indeed needed - as no h/u has enough power output to
thus power even a 6" subwoofer....

so to conclude - I do feel that an upgrading your h/u and 4 door speakers - and simply using the h/u (via the metra harness)
(and unplugging the Oem amp) is more than sufficient in time and ease....
I woldnt say I am against the above method (never having tried it) - but I canit imagine your soud quality -
would be any better than simply using the metra to oem harness...

anywhos just my $.02 on car audio matters....

Bf
 
So, here's where I'm going with this... I "H8" the thought of disregarding the speakers in the dash and the rear cargo area regardless of how useless they might be. All the wiring is in place, so it's mostly an issue of finding the right components (Pioneer TS-G series) and tracing the wiring around the factory amp - which we all agree is garbage. What I want to end up with is two speakers at each corner (dash/door R, dash/door L, door/cargo R, door/cargo L) running each corner as a single channel. The Pioneer TS-G are native 4ohm, so wired in parallel, they will present a 2ohm load. The Pioneer GM-D1004 is super compact and will drive 100x4 at 2ohm. It even has a crossover built in to clip low bass. My motivation is to supplement the new H/U since I'd be driving a 2ohm load. As for the sub, I'd run a dedicated powered sub like the Kicker Hideaway using factory wiring behind the cargo side panel.

I accept this may not be the cheapest path, but to me, it's the right path. And it allows me to retain all the factory grills/panels.

I know I'm not the first to head down this path, so what do I not know?
 
I have some nice Kenwoods in place of the dash speakers and they don't sound great and I don't really think they add anything to the soundstage. Mainly treble.

The 4 channel amp I use definitely sounds better than the Amp in the HU...more clarity and punch, but it just depends if you want to put that much time into it. Took me a few hours to take everything apart, run wires, etc. worth it IMO. Using the HU sounded fine but I prefer the 4 channel.
 
I wouldn't even be looking at more than two basic speakers unless every square inch of my interior (incl roof) was fatmatted, and maybe not even then. The noise floor is so high in our trucks, I just don't see investing in more than basic functionality. It's not going to sound like a good system at home no matter what, and I doubt it's even going to sound halfway decent like my Lexus RX ML system.

(If you've considered that and decided to invest in this anyway, carry on!)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom