Fitment of Pioneer TS-G series speakers behind OEM grills (1 Viewer)

[asutherland]

That's the sub I want for my car, but paired with the Pioneer subwoofer box.
Can't figure out the specs given by Pioneer. Is the power rated at 2 Ohm or 4 Ohm? 150 Watts continuous power at....?
Would a 75W/ch at 2 Ohm amp work?

Not 100% on the ratings, but it's a dual voice coil @ 2 ohms PER coil. Wired in parallel = 1 ohm, wired in series (like in my pic) = 4 ohm.

 

[Dragos80]

Right.
Could you also use it as a 2 channel sub? 2 coils, 2 ch amp at 2 Ohm per channel.

The specs offered by Pioneer are very vague in my opinion. 150W continuous and 600W max, 2 Ohm per coil. Unable to make sense of it all.

This is the box I got. I would have to modify it slightly to make it fit in that same location. Cut off the little feet should be enough, I hope. The amp would be under the driver's seat.
UD-SW200D - Downfiring Enclosure for 8" Shallow Subwoofer

 

[Dragos80]

I think I figured it out by looking at a combo package on their site.

The second one says 150W/600W at 4 Ohm. I guess, in this case, each coil can handle 150 W @ 2 Ohm. The power doubles as the resistance goes down by 50%.

 

[srfdntchk]

Hi All,

I finally decided to do the Pioneer speaker swap mod after suffering 2 years of the craptastic sound of the stock speakers in my 1996 LC. The front speakers are in and look and sound great! I just had to bend the tabs forward 90 degrees, added 3/8" rubber washers and got a perfect fit using the hardware supplied with the speakers. Looks perfectly stock.

Now, I'm stumped on the rear speakers. I've removed the 3 screws, but apparently there's a center screw from the back or something? It's mentioned in the thread, but not pictured nor any comments on removal. Any tips on where it is and how to access without taking the door panel off?

I tried posting a pic of where I'm at, but having Google storage issues and too frustrated to mess with right now. Basically I just started digging into the speaker itself, and fount the center silvery magnet thing. It started unscrewing, but just turns loose now, and the rest of the speaker is just as solidly affixed as before. Can someone please either post some details on removing the rear speaker and/or post some images? My forum and web searches have turned up nothing so far.

Thanks!

 

[DaFuzz]

The speakers has a sticky foam glue that hold it to the metal. Pry away gently and eventually the speaker will pop of while still inside the plastic basket. Once its off the door turn the speaker around and remove the single silver Philips head screw that holds the speaker into the plastic basket. Then it will simply be a matter of clipping the speaker wires.

 

[srfdntchk]

The speakers has a sticky foam glue that hold it to the metal. Pry away gently and eventually the speaker will pop of while still inside the plastic basket. Once its off the door turn the speaker around and remove the single silver Philips head screw that holds the speaker into the plastic basket. Then it will simply be a matter of clipping the speaker wires.

If I understand you correctly, the basket itself, with the speaker inside, is affixed with the sticky foam glue stuff, and I just need to carefully pry it off?

 

[asutherland]

I believe that is the case!

 

[srfdntchk]

I believe that is the case!

Awesome! I'll have a go at it this evening. I briefly thought that might be the case, but it felt so solidly stuck that I thought it was the center screw thingy holding it on. Hopefully I don't break the baskets prying them off.

 

[asutherland]

I just checked my old photos and found this one.. now I am not sure it's only held in with the foam. Sorry! It looks like there might be some tabs as well?

For what it's worth, I did NOT have to remove the rear door panels to get at the speakers. I DO remember that much.

 

[DaFuzz]

Once the three screw come off its just adhesive holding it on.. I thought the same as it was stuck VERY well. I took a flat head screw driver and peeled it off. Then the speaker and basket come out of the hole. Once out, flip the basket around and remove the screw that holds the speaker into the basket. Basket is pretty hardy so I would be too worried. Pry at the base where it sits flush with the metal on the door.

It is a bit unnerving and it is REALLY stuck in there.. Just to confirm mine was a 1997 LX450...

 

[asutherland]

Ok that makes sense. Adhesive and the 3 bolts to take out the plastic cage and speaker as one piece.

 

[srfdntchk]

Hi All,

Just a quick update - I successfully finished the Pioneer speaker mod on the front and back speakers, keeping the original stock grills. I cannot recommend this enough. I'm not an audiophile so these speakers are awesome and only cost $56 for the fronts and rear combined (Best Buy matching Wal-Mart online price). Aside from the slight hiccup with the rear speakers, and thanks to the helpful folks here, everything was surprisingly easy. Here's a quick summary of my experience for those wanting to install the same and keep the factory grills.

Front Speakers - 6.5' TS-G1645R - $29.98

I used the screws and brackets that came with the new speakers, but just added 3/8M Flat Washers from the plumbing department at Home Depot. Spacing was perfect and everything looks stock.

Rear Door Speakers - 4" TS-G1045R - $26.43

I used the original speaker basket screws to attach the basket to the door, but in order to re-use the stock speaker grill I needed to cut out the rear portion of the basket with a Dremel tool, which allows the new speaker to fit flush. I then removed 1 of the 4 metal screw tabs from the speaker itself, then bent the remaining ones downward 90-degrees and used short screws laying around the house to screw through the tabs into the basket to affix the speaker.

Now I have new speakers that don't rattle and everything still looks stock. I'm sorry I didn't take pictures, especially of the rear speaker work, but I borrowed the solution for those from another member that did post pics somewhere in this thread, or maybe on other Pioneer speaker thread.

Thanks again to everyone that offered help! That's why this forum rocks! Now, on to the next small project (baby steps for me) - installing LED interior lighting and an underhood light!

- D

 

[srfdntchk]

FYI - Looking at asutherland's pic a few posts up, it looks like it might have been from him that I borrowed/stole the idea to bend the speaker tabs down to affix the rear speakers to the baskets. A brilliant solution I might add!

- D

 

[Dragos80]

 

[JaketheSSnake]

As promised, a short writeup on my subwoofer replacement using the 80 series Whole Hog aftermarket aluminum bracket! Whole Hog FJ80 Toyota LandCruiser Products

Brandon from Whole Hog was pleasant to deal with, and gave me the IH8MUD discount too! I ended up having it shipped to my USA post office box in Blaine to avoid the $$ shipping across the border.

Step 1... remove factory sub and bracket. Did that about 5 years ago... lol

Step 2... find and fix those annoying small water leaks that result in water in the rear quarter panels. Guilty parties:
A) tabs that hold the small piece of trim underneath the 3rd row windows
B) tabs that hold the flat large trim along the side of the outside quarter panel (Is this even on USA 80s? Not sure)
C) moon shaped black plastic vent underneath the black vents behind the 3rd row windows. Mine was leaking like a ****

Step 3... find and buy a suitable aftermarket 8 inch sub and amp. I used these:
A) Pioneer TS-SW2002D2 8-inch Shallow-Mount Subwoofer with 600 Watts Max Power: Good reviews and inexpensive. Also meets the bracket's specs listed for being under 3 inches deep. According to Pioneer this particular sub is OK for both box mounted and open air installation, which makes it perfect for this application. Amazon.com: Pioneer TS-SW2002D2 8-inch Shallow-Mount Subwoofer with 600 Watts Max Power: Car Electronics
b) Boss AR1500M ARMOR 1,500-Watt Mono Mosfet Amplifier: Good reviews and VERY inexpensive. Amazon.com: Boss AR1500M ARMOR 1,500-Watt Mono Mosfet Amplifier: Electronics

The fitment of the Pioneer shallow mount 8 inch sub was PERFECT on the Whole Hog bracket. And the BOSS amp was quite small and fit easily in the provided blank space below.

View attachment 1437496

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Installed using some extra stainless m6 bolts, washers and nylocks I had... because, why not

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Not to be rude, but wtf kind of sub set up is this? A bracket that just bolts the sub in place without an enclosure? I'm well aware of what free air subs are, but they don't work like this. It just sounds like a horrible idea. Without an enclosure or a baffle of some sort it's going to vibrate more than anything.

 

[asutherland]

Not to be rude, but wtf kind of sub set up is this? A bracket that just bolts the sub in place without an enclosure? I'm well aware of what free air subs are, but they don't work like this. It just sounds like a horrible idea. Without an enclosure or a baffle of some sort it's going to vibrate more than anything.

Not sure, you'd have to ask the manufacturer (he is on here). I haven't had any vibration issues yet, other than the plastic panel, which was fixed with some new red panel clips. The above info is my personal experience setting this up and I'm not affiliated with them. For me it was worth the chance of better sound without cargo room sacrifice (more important than sound). On their build/sale thread there's a lot of other happy customers too

By the way... starting off with Not to be rude, usually ends up as being perceived as rude

 

[JaketheSSnake]

By the way... starting off with Not to be rude, usually ends up as being perceived as rude

Guilty as charged lol. I spent a lot of time building and tuning sub boxes in my younger days when I used to compete so it kind of struck a nerve. It was almost a rhetorical question to the builder rather than you. As long as you're happy that's all that matters . I'd really like to hear one in person to be honest.

 

[asutherland]

There is actually a build thread on here somewhere, and they seem to respond quickly. Worth a check!

I still want a more powerful amp in there. The dual voice coil surprised me. (didn't even see that till after I ordered the speaker)

 

[eunique]

Great thread and info. Thanks to all contributors. I just got my LC amd will be tackling this soon,the sound in mine is HORRIBLE!

 

[nukegoat]

Guilty as charged lol. I spent a lot of time building and tuning sub boxes in my younger days when I used to compete so it kind of struck a nerve. It was almost a rhetorical question to the builder rather than you. As long as you're happy that's all that matters . I'd really like to hear one in person to be honest.

Same. I did car audio competitions (dbdrag racing) and i can confidently say a stamped piece of sheet metal that does nothing to baffle the driver will still make for a lackluster auditory experience