Fitment of Pioneer TS-G series speakers behind OEM grills (3 Viewers)

[midfat]

I wouldn't even be looking at more than two basic speakers unless every square inch of my interior (incl roof) was fatmatted, and maybe not even then. The noise floor is so high in our trucks, I just don't see investing in more than basic functionality. It's not going to sound like a good system at home no matter what, and I doubt it's even going to sound halfway decent like my Lexus RX ML system.

(If you've considered that and decided to invest in this anyway, carry on!)

I have no illusions about the sonic environment of our noisy rigs. And I may well just go ahead with four speakers and a new H/U. But, it will always eat at me that I left some on the table. The price of speakers and an amp is relatively cheap. Just trying to determine if most folks opt for the easy solution, or if there are real obstacles that prevent us from resolving the dash/cargo speaker issue.

 

[JaketheSSnake]

I have no illusions about the sonic environment of our noisy rigs. And I may well just go ahead with four speakers and a new H/U. But, it will always eat at me that I left some on the table. The price of speakers and an amp is relatively cheap. Just trying to determine if most folks opt for the easy solution, or if there are real obstacles that prevent us from resolving the dash/cargo speaker issue.

Other than watching movies in surround sound, there isn't much reason to have speakers that far and high behind you. They're going to get drowned out by a decent set of front speakers more than likely. I wouldn't worry about it

 

[slow95z]

Ditch the rear speakers and put some led cargo lights in there, you will thank me later.

 

[Cactuscrzr]

6.5" front and back

 

[asutherland]

Other than watching movies in surround sound, there isn't much reason to have speakers that far and high behind you. They're going to get drowned out by a decent set of front speakers more than likely. I wouldn't worry about it

Sure there is. When I have passengers in my third row they have speakers

 

[nickinportland]

I just received my speakers and was looking up some more threads and saw that the 6.5 can fit in the front and the rear. Is this the case with all fj80 or certain years? Would rather have the 6.5 in all 4 doors if the modification is limited and still have the factory look.

Did you ever end up getting small sub?

Interested in doing the same...

 

[asutherland]

Did you ever end up getting small sub?

Interested in doing the same...

I did, I'll do a write up soon (in this thread)

 

[emanting]

Thanks for the great write up. One question...do you need to take the rear door panels off to do the rear speakers? Kind of looks like you don't.

 

[asutherland]

Thanks for the great write up. One question...do you need to take the rear door panels off to do the rear speakers? Kind of looks like you don't.

That's right, you don't.

 

[IoN6]

In the original post it says that TS-G1645R is a 6" speaker, but that PN comes up as a 6.5". Am I correct to assume that these are the ones that were used?

 

[asutherland]

In the original post it says that TS-G1645R is a 6" speaker, but that PN comes up as a 6.5". Am I correct to assume that these are the ones that were used?

You're right, they are 6.5. I'll update my first post

 

[DaFuzz]

That's right, you don't.

Great write up. Just did the rear speakers following the same process. Need a bit more time and I'll tackle the fronts. Rears came out and back in without removing the panel. Just popped off the factory cover and removed three screws holding it to door and rear screw holding speaker to the plastic basket. Clipped of rear plastic and inserted new speaker.

 

[Saddletramp]

Installed the speakers in my 97 collectors last week. Followed the steps of the original post, the only issue is the head of the screws on the front speakers sticks up a bit higher than a panhead would. Notice the small bulge in the door panel. I may go back and change that one screw on each speaker.

 

[asutherland]

Installed the speakers in my 97 collectors last week. Followed the steps of the original post, the only issue is the head of the screws on the front speakers sticks up a bit higher than a panhead would. Notice the small bulge in the door panel. I may go back and change that one screw on each speaker.

Hey @Saddletramp , that's interesting. Mine never did that. I have heard on a number of occasions (while researching on here) that the doors on the 96-97 might be SLIGHTLY different, wonder if that's what caused it.

 

[asutherland]

As promised, a short writeup on my subwoofer replacement using the 80 series Whole Hog aftermarket aluminum bracket! Whole Hog FJ80 Toyota LandCruiser Products

Brandon from Whole Hog was pleasant to deal with, and gave me the IH8MUD discount too! I ended up having it shipped to my USA post office box in Blaine to avoid the $$ shipping across the border.

Step 1... remove factory sub and bracket. Did that about 5 years ago... lol

Step 2... find and fix those annoying small water leaks that result in water in the rear quarter panels. Guilty parties:
A) tabs that hold the small piece of trim underneath the 3rd row windows
B) tabs that hold the flat large trim along the side of the outside quarter panel (Is this even on USA 80s? Not sure)
C) moon shaped black plastic vent underneath the black vents behind the 3rd row windows. Mine was leaking like a ****

Step 3... find and buy a suitable aftermarket 8 inch sub and amp. I used these:
A) Pioneer TS-SW2002D2 8-inch Shallow-Mount Subwoofer with 600 Watts Max Power: Good reviews and inexpensive. Also meets the bracket's specs listed for being under 3 inches deep. According to Pioneer this particular sub is OK for both box mounted and open air installation, which makes it perfect for this application. Amazon.com: Pioneer TS-SW2002D2 8-inch Shallow-Mount Subwoofer with 600 Watts Max Power: Car Electronics
b) Boss AR1500M ARMOR 1,500-Watt Mono Mosfet Amplifier: Good reviews and VERY inexpensive. Amazon.com: Boss AR1500M ARMOR 1,500-Watt Mono Mosfet Amplifier: Electronics

The fitment of the Pioneer shallow mount 8 inch sub was PERFECT on the Whole Hog bracket. And the BOSS amp was quite small and fit easily in the provided blank space below.

Installed using some extra stainless m6 bolts, washers and nylocks I had... because, why not

 

[ZackR]

I just drilled into the metal when installing my front speakers (1994 model). I could have made the holes line up but it turned out to be easier just drilling a small hole.

For the rear speakers I didn't use a rivet but rather short screws (actually cut the ones that the speakers came with in half lengthwise) that went into the plastic housing.

One month later and its probably my most enjoyable (on a daily basis) mod to date, especially compared to the blown stock setup.

 

[asutherland]

Now, someone with actual car audio training can correct me here (please, do if applicable!) but my understanding is this:

The Pioneer sub I selected is a 2 ohm dual voice coil sub. It has 4 connectors on the back, and is technically the same as wiring TWO subs in. The Boss amp I selected is ONLY able to power down to a 2 ohm load. It cannot handle 1 ohm loads. According to Pioneers instructions, wiring the dual voice coil sub in parallel would make the load 1 ohm. (resistance in parallel decreases overall resistance).

So I wired the sub's voice coils in series. 2 ohm voice coil + 2 ohm voice coil (in series) = 4 ohm overall load. Which was within spec of the Boss amp... bringing the amp to (I believe?) half it's rated wattage, and more in line with the wattage the sub was rated for.

Wired in series:

 

[asutherland]

The Whole Hog bracket fit perfectly into my quarter panel space, utilizing factory captured nuts (near the 3rd row seatbelt and the top left) and two factory holes (using bolts/nuts) on the bottom. The Pioneer sub still had a finger or more space behind it.

The panel fits back on perfectly, the new aftermarket Pioneer sub lines up with the factory sub grill, and the amp lines up with the vent slots below it. Completely hidden, and most importantly, NOT TAKING ANY CARGO ROOM UP! For someone that takes their family of 5 (plus dog) out for week+ long overland type trips this is invaluable!

 

[asutherland]

Sound impressions... Being a single 8 inch sub, located at the very back of the truck, in an open-air installation... it doesn't sound too bad. It definitely doesn't rattle the windows of my neighbour's house, which is good. I didn't want that. I wanted something to provide a little kick to the bass notes in the music I listen to for the people IN the truck, which it does well. It "thickens" the music sound too, makes it sound more full... like a decent home stereo.

I've found over the last while the bass adjustment on the amp has been at full. I'm not sure if that's because I'm maxing out the sound from an 8 inch sub, or, possibly the Boss amp is not as powerful as I had hoped. If I were to do the project over again, I would probably:

A) Select a mono-amp with a BIT more power (or)
B) Select a mono-amp that can handle 1 ohm loads (and wire the sub in parallel)

 

[Dragos80]

That's the sub I want for my car, but paired with the Pioneer subwoofer box.
Can't figure out the specs given by Pioneer. Is the power rated at 2 Ohm or 4 Ohm? 150 Watts continuous power at....?
Would a 75W/ch at 2 Ohm amp work?